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Turbo repair

C

catmanm7

Well-known member
I have a garrett turbo 2876R and the exhaust side fins have the corners broke off. I am not sure how big of a deal it is, or if I can just run it as is. A piece of the piston had gone through there, but the rest of the fins are fine (not bent). Ill try to get pics, but its the inner corner of the fin, and hard to see.

So all I can find is complete center sections for the turbo, can I not send this in and just have the exhaust side replaced. Can I do it myself...

Also wiseco or stock cat pistons. I think have seen GUS recommend Wiseco, because when they fail, they don't fall apart in big pieces?
 
CHRA core exchange program is the best route to replace the center section.

It is very difficult to get just the turbine that is damaged and then it is critical that it is balanced, so the center section is the way to go.

Stock pistons.
 
Though I strongly disagree on oem pistons for boost. They do work.
Your issue was they shattered. Forged will never ever do that.

With pieces missing NOW on your turbine wheel you are out of balance. Get a chra.
Or just run it . You must be running low boost or you would be out of your mind to use stock pistons.
I have Wisecos in my 900 triple piped turbo and would never go backwards..and that's just a ***** 400 hp trail seld.
 
Wiseco vs OEM

In my experience, the Wiseco will smear before they break. This way you won't have pieces go through the turbo. Running the turbo setup in the safe zone and regular maintenence will prevent down time during the season of course.
 
So let's say you are running 10 psi

Gus you are saying wisecos over OEM.

I've read a lot of posts where a majority of people say stock pistons when doing a top end on their sleds. not sure why unless they are alot cheaper than forged.?
 
I had a ton of posts and did a ton of looking around on which pistons to rebuild my sled with.... Almost everyone said stock was best.

With forged pistons yes it might not chunk off, but they will melt, and that will happen easier then then chunking a oem piston. Also PROPER warmup is key to run forged pistons, it might not seem like a big deal but come on, after having a quick water break in cold weather how many people MAKE SURE their sleds are warm? Or how about when your stuck and than dig for awhile and than pin and wiggle your sled until you are out of the hole? Im guilty of both of those for sure, I dont even think of it most of the time, and my sled is still running stronger than ever just to be clear. OEM is my pick, im sure youll be fine with either but thats just what I learned from looking into this topic a lot over the summer, maybe im wrong but it sure makes sense to me.

My .02
 
All builders will recommend stock pistons for the kitty, zero complaints there.

I might be putting my Tial gt2876 in the swap meet soon, It's just sitting on the shelf looking lonely, Not sure if my pro would hold together with that much CFM ... PM if you're interested.
 
av8er said:
Gus you are saying wisecos over OEM.

I've read a lot of posts where a majority of people say stock pistons when doing a top end on their sleds. not sure why unless they are alot cheaper than forged.?
Click to expand...

Yes. 100%. The wives tales still plague those who surf the net ..makes me and about 1000 % of the world laugh at the world is still flat mentallity.
Warm up horror stories only applied to steel sleeves. Smearing again is a steel sleeves issues. Lower melting temps story.....another bs story. You do not run any turbo w stroke so lean as to be on the verge of melting a piston ..an less you are a fool who enjoys getting towed in.
There is no need to ever run on that edge.
Suffice to say. This is where I step out. Believe the fables and keep on chooglin.!!
 
Here is some pics of the damage. You can see the damage on the back corner of the fins. Should I run this or is it not worth it?

20141207_162758.jpg 20141207_162814.jpg 20141207_162909.jpg 20141207_162927.jpg 20141207_163010.jpg 20141207_153931.jpg
 
I just went through this on my sled? Same think happened. Piston went through the turbo. I had mine rebuilt with a billet compressor wheel. Found the guy off EBAY. Think what you want about that. After talking with him on the phone I was very impressed and sent it to him for a rebuild. He rebuilt it and sent it to a shop for high speed VSR balancing and they mailed it to me. I am very happy with the results. That being said I would rebuild it myself and send it in for balancing if it happens to me again. I practiced taking one apart on a junk turbo first though. It's not impossible to do like everyone leads you to believe and if you don't ruin the bearing assembly you can purchase a turbine wheel for under $200. If you are good you can have a turbo rebuilt for around $300. I hate being told I can't do something!!!
 
That kit is for a journal bearing turbo. I searched all over and finally found this guy who would sell me parts. http://jdsperformanceturbos.com/

Take a peak.

I ran my turbo most of last season with all of my blades on my turbine wheel destroyed. After seeing how bad it was this summer and me not noticing any balance problems, I figure who cares about the balancing. If I destroy another turbine wheel I will just by a new wheel from josh and put it together. If I am feeling rich I will send it off for balancing in the off season. Hope this helps. Josh was very helpful and good to communicate with.
 
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