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TUNNEL WRAP... need TIPS from you PRO's

about ready to do my carbon fiber 3m vinyl tunnel wrap.... and i got hung up on it last night cuz the material got rolled and packaged the wrong way so im waiting for new stuff to come in a few weeks..... SO in the meantime i have stripped the sled completely down no skid, no brake rotor guard, belt guard bumper and took off my airframes....SUGESTIONS from you guys on the best direction... or way to wrap this bad girl...

I know where the chassis comes together in the middle is going to be a real tricky part. id really like to know what all you other guys are doing to your wraps to get those parts done...

Assuming PUZZLE cut pieces to lighn up on those high spots.

ALSO how does it look going over the RIVETS... do you guys remove ALLLL the tunnel rivets and then re assemble? i can appreciate any help or tips to get this project going.
 
Looking at doing mine in a few weeks also. From the M-series ive done in the past a heat gun is you best friend for tight folds and rivets.
 
I have been doing some research on it and im no longer worried about the rivets this stuff works unrealll once you put a heatgun on it!!! and also noticing that you can CLEARCOAT IT looks awesome clear much more realistic....
I have a buddy that owns a Vinyl shop.... pretty sure i have the 3M vinyl he described it to me just like 3M webpage about it does. and it does stick and re stick untill your ready to really lay it then you incorporate the heatgun. i have some extra so im going to play with some truck emblems and stuff to make sure i have the hang of it before i put it on my PUDDY TAT
 
The vinyl responds very well to heat. Also I like the rivet brush to suck the vinyl tight around the rivets. Quick and easy to do.
 
This is the easiest stuff I have ever used. Very little heat needed to do the most extreme corners. Here is a pick of my 2010 tunnel.
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This is the easiest stuff I have ever used. Very little heat needed to do the most extreme corners. Here is a pick of my 2010 tunnel.
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WOW that looks great!!... hows the vinyl holding up? And have you ever clear coated it. i saw on youtube ppl that clear coated it and it really makes a big differance... i bet it will really shed snow as well Cant wait to wrap mine. i went the distance w the tear down

removed airframes, bumper, brake rotor cover, cleaned and now just waiting for my new VINYL to come in a week or so... in the meantime i think ill add the 2013 drop hole in the tunnel and the 2014 one if i get the bracket and slide the skid back the 20MM

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I just installed it this summer so I don't know how it will hold up. I'm not worried. My whole sled is wrapped with Arctic FX for several winters now and is holding up. I just thought I'd try this 3m stuff on top of the tunnel. Very satisfied. I never heard of putting clear coat on it.
 
I just installed it this summer so I don't know how it will hold up. I'm not worried. My whole sled is wrapped with Arctic FX for several winters now and is holding up. I just thought I'd try this 3m stuff on top of the tunnel. Very satisfied. I never heard of putting clear coat on it.

Ray, so you had the cooler covered before? I thought you didn't want to cover the cooler with vinyl... maybe I was misled.

Hey Gary, I think those A arms are in Iceland now... should get to you in another 2 or 3 months max man...:face-icon-small-sho
 
Durability

A comment on durability: I scuffed and cleaned my tunnel before applying the 3M vinyl and it didn't hold up like I would have hoped. I had to replace the tunnel sides twice where my feet are on the boards a lot of the time. Everywhere else held up decent. Still lots of small rips from rollovers, sticks, etc. Granted I did rode A LOT last year. Just an FYI for everyone.
 
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Ray, so you had the cooler covered before? I thought you didn't want to cover the cooler with vinyl... maybe I was misled.

Hey Gary, I think those A arms are in Iceland now... should get to you in another 2 or 3 months max man...:face-icon-small-sho

Actually my razor blades and knifes were dull so I haven't cut them out. I was just going to cut them but leave them on. If the heat releases the glue, I'll just peel it off on the mountain. This sled has trail coolers on it and it rarely sees above 110 degrees even riding in above 0 temps.
 
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Just a comment on the durability, I replace the edge piece(on a pro rmk) every fall. It gets a little chewed up from the year of riding. Overall I think it holds up good for what abuse I put it through. Plus the maintenance of keeping it clean is easy and minimal snow build up is nice. And it looks cool. Overall a cheap way to protect your investment!
Here is a couple pics of the vinyl I have done:
Here is one in the beginning stages


 
Thank you for the Durability testimonials, i have degreased my tunnel and everything think ill clean it w some rubbing alcohol just before i wrap it, i plan to clear coat my vinyl so im sure that will help a real lot with some durability. either way it looks sweet and will repel snow even if it does get small tear in it its easily fixed and will still serve its purpose.....
AND YODA.. thanks alot i guess ill be riding it like a sea-doo through december
 
I put it on my center hood plastic (the textured areas) and it didn't stick well. I think it was more of an application problem and the heat in certain areas. If putting it on plastics i'd recommend a plastic primer.

Otherwise it held up to trees and scratches nicely.
 
Thank you for the Durability testimonials, i have degreased my tunnel and everything think ill clean it w some rubbing alcohol just before i wrap it, i plan to clear coat my vinyl so im sure that will help a real lot with some durability. either way it looks sweet and will repel snow even if it does get small tear in it its easily fixed and will still serve its purpose.....
AND YODA.. thanks alot i guess ill be riding it like a sea-doo through december

the key is to get a good quality vinyl. there are cheap brands out there that arent as durable. I have a full season on mine and it is tough as nails. one thing I would suggest.... dont clearcoat it. it wont help the durability at all, and it will make it alot harder to fix/patch in a spot if you do have an issue

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