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Tunnel HUCK Rivets

G

gjp

Well-known member
I snapped the Running Board Gusset which bent the skid drop mount and sheared off some rivets. I removed the gusset plates last season, but re-installed with Aluminum rivets after purchasing MadFab's board inserts. The damage was more extensive because of the soft rivets used. I can see now how those plates reinforce the setup.

The rivets from the parts diagram are 3/16 HUCK rivets. Hopefully dealer has a huck rivet gun.

I did some research on rivet strength:
3/16" Alum: 445/720 lbs (shear/tensile)
3/16" Steel: 590/815 lbs (shear/tensile)
3/16" Huck: 1700/1050 lbs (shear/tensile)

A/C does not sell the skid drop plate so I had to straighten it. I don't have pictures yet of how I straightened it but I used about 3 tie down straps and sucked the tunnel together and used steady pressure to bend everything back. Much easier than I thought. The sheared rivets took most of the force and saved my tunnel.

So if you removed your gusset rolls I would suggest re-installing them with Huck rivets.

huck-rivets.jpg snapped-gusset-roll.jpg magnabulb.jpg
 
hmm, I took my gusset plates off as soon as I got my sled because I thought they'd hold more snow. Guess i should put them back on...
 
I may upgrade to a Van Amburg VE Tunnel extension to stiffen things up. Anyone use it?

2012-TUNNEL-EXTENSION.jpg
 
Wyo, is that the VE tunnel extension on your custom skinny? Did you use HUCK Rivets when you redid your tunnel?

424093_3488597297132_2109048884_n.jpg
 
What about RivNuts (or Rivet Nut or Pop Nut)? Are they strong enough for the tunnel? (I can't miss another weekend of sledding - 9+ feet in Revelstoke :face-icon-small-sho)

images
sherex-rivet-nut.jpg
 
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Rivnuts are a single panel Nut and Bolt application for mounting Mirrors, other panels etc(any that i've used) Strong on the barrel side-never pull through, but the outside shoulder doesn't have much to it. they're not made for holding two surfaces together like Blind Rivets are-especially "Huck" Rivets.(Huck being a brand name) The rivet in that pic is a Magna-bulb Rivet. (lol-for whatever that speil's worth-bored)
 
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I snapped the Running Board Gusset which bent the skid drop mount and sheared off some rivets. I removed the gusset plates last season, but re-installed with Aluminum rivets after purchasing MadFab's board inserts. The damage was more extensive because of the soft rivets used. I can see now how those plates reinforce the setup.

The rivets from the parts diagram are 3/16 HUCK rivets. Hopefully dealer has a huck rivet gun.

I did some research on rivet strength:
3/16" Alum: 445/720 lbs (shear/tensile)
3/16" Steel: 590/815 lbs (shear/tensile)
3/16" Huck: 1700/1050 lbs (shear/tensile)

A/C does not sell the skid drop plate so I had to straighten it. I don't have pictures yet of how I straightened it but I used about 3 tie down straps and sucked the tunnel together and used steady pressure to bend everything back. Much easier than I thought. The sheared rivets took most of the force and saved my tunnel.

So if you removed your gusset rolls I would suggest re-installing them with Huck rivets.

How much did the rivets end up costing?
 
SS - Zinc Rivets

FYI - Stainless Steel (SS) Rivets are a lot stronger than Aluminum or Steel rivets; Huck's are the better choice but a $500 tool is required to install them (tough to find decent info on rivet strength) :

3/16" Alum: 445/720 lbs (shear/tensile)
3/16" Steel: 590/815 lbs (shear/tensile)
3/16" SS: 1000/1350 lbs (shear/tensile)
3/16" Huck: 1700/1050 lbs (shear/tensile)

A/C uses SS - Zinc coated for a lot of the tunnel. (Zinc to stop oxidization/corrosion again aluminum)

A/C Part#
8060-686 : RIVET,BLIND-DH SS64 ZINC : $0.18 each

If my dealer does not have a huck rivet gun, I will buy SS rivets and finally enjoy some powder this weekend. I plan to talk to Van Amburg about their tunnel extension to help with strength too.

Am I crazy to use SS rivets??
 
As noted, one issue is galvanic reaction between SS andAl, they don't play nice together and will corrode. For an airplane, that's bad. For a sled tunnel gusset, it's not as big of deal.

If it came down to riding or not, I'd use the best available in the time allotted.
 
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Another great option for structural sled parts is buck rivets (solid rivets).
If you already have a air compressor, al you need is a cheapo air hammer and the install tool.
The downside is you need access to both sides unlike blind rivet and if you mess up, the hammer will ding up the area around the rivet head.
The advantage is they're strong as heck and they will fill an out of round hole as they deform.
It's all I use on the sleds unless I have to use a blind (pop) rivet.
 
My pneumatic rivet gun pulls huck rivets just fine. 3/16 replaced several when tearing down my 12'
 
Finished my Skinz Airframe install a bit ago and they said do not reinstall those plates..... Hmmm glad I did not throw them away.
 
My pneumatic rivet gun pulls huck rivets just fine. 3/16 replaced several when tearing down my 12'
My understanding was HUCK's required a special riveter. Some HUCK rivets look like they screw, not pull. I will pick up an air riveter at Princess Auto and do it myself. Thanks.
Z

Z
 
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