TT m1000 boost-it box

[Arctic Thunder]

The more I read about this boost-it box the more it sounds like a Boondocker box.

Thunder

 

[simpson]

Moving the threshold to a more negative number will bring the fuel in sooner. So if you are set at -3.xx go to -4.xx to start bringing fuel in earlier. Then tune the top end via main fuel and rpm trims. As mentioned this will make the whole map richer. If this does not get it tuned call boost it as the min rpm number may need to be adjusted. It is in the book but if a change to this is needed I would call prior to making the change.

Ok so if I where to have the threshhold set higher there could be a chance that there would be no fuel added to the lower rpms ?.. just wondeing what threshhold i should start at or baro setting before I start tuning my fuel trims... what is the difference between the baro setting and the threshold ....

 

[Polarisrocks]

The threshold and baro are the the same.. they are labeled the same in the same window.. If your min rpm is set at 57 the box will begin fueling at that rpm and not so much where you have your baro.. Your baro still needs to be -8 to be in the vacuum.. The 2 stroke only have 2-5 inches of vacuum so -2 to -5 at idle... At 3500 rpms the vacuum is more stable at about -5 and that why you are setting your baro at -8 so you are always allowing the box to fuel. If your min rpm was set at 40 then you wouldn't be able to fuel till 6500 rpms or about.. but since its at 57, you are fueling at about 4400 rpms.. There is no real need to fuel below the lean cruise spot about 5500 rpms on the traii. If you are having trouble with a lean or rich condition below that area you may want to raise or lower your fuel pressure a few psi and give it another spin.. You will be surprised how restrictive the turbo is at the lower rpms.. We run our fuel pressure at or below 38.. We also run a 2.5 0r 3 degree bikeman timing key in the advanced position to help with the race/av gas at lower rpms and then use a 3 degree boondocker timing module to retard it back out on the top end.. it wakes the sled up.. Also remember you may need to blend the rpm trim numbers on each side of your trouble spot as it could be just a split second before the one your tuning.. Hope this helps..

Thanks Wes, your description of the baro was easier to understand..

Jim

 

[kanedog]

Again nothing really wrong with my attitude box, I just like to tinker I suppose.[/QUOTE]

Thunder

So you are going to spend $1200 on another fuel controller because there is nothing really wrong with your attitude box?

Maybe I'm reading your quote wrong, but that makes no sense to me.

Why are you asking so many questions about a boost it box and rudely hijacking the OP's thread? He wanted to know about boost it's number. Not educate you on how a boost it works.
Now go start your own thread if ya wanna know more. Better yet, call or email Neil at boost it and ask him.
Thanks for letting me vent on you.

 

[kanedog]

I feel better now.

 

[Arctic Thunder]

Thunder

So you are going to spend $1200 on another fuel controller because there is nothing really wrong with your attitude box?

Maybe I'm reading your quote wrong, but that makes no sense to me.

Why are you asking so many questions about a boost it box and rudely hijacking the OP's thread? He wanted to know about boost it's number. Not educate you on how a boost it works.
Now go start your own thread if ya wanna know more. Better yet, call or email Neil at boost it and ask him.
Thanks for letting me vent on you.

Good vent. But I don't want to beat down my current control box, it works pretty darn good. I am very interested in tinkering with something new. Don't know which one yet, and the boost it sounds very good. So I have asked a lot of questions on how it really works, and what do ya know. It isn't just a plug and go deal like some others have said. It has more bells and whistles than I really care to mess with.

So thanks for giving me a chance to again hijack this thread by answering your message. Ask another and I bet you get another reply.

Go out and ride.

And just because you asked, I called and emailed Neil this summer. Didn't get a return email, and finally got a return phone call about 3 months later. I wasn't going to screw around with a new box a couple weeks before season. So I put it on hold until next season. Thats why I am still asking these stupid questions. If I would have got some service upfront, I would have the damn box on my sled right now and I could help simpson out. But at this time it looks like he is having a heck of a time getting it to work and I am out riding. ENJOY!!

Thunder

 

[WesG]

The baro or threshold setting is the vac or boost pressure which the secondarys activate at. BUT the secondarys also activate on the min rpm number so you must have both set in order for the box to add fuel at the proper time (ie you must be above the min rpm setting and above the set vac or boost pressure). If your threshold is at -6 or more negative it will not impact the turn on timing of the secondarys b/c the sled will not build more vac than that -6" so the threshold is always active per say. In this case the min rpm setting will be the turn on point. You can verify this by the light on the box when you increase the rpm the light comes on when you are adding fuel via the secondary injectors. A gentle roll on throttle test will show you where your injectors turn on at. Now the threshold WILL make the map richer/leaner by a course amount. More negative value = richer mapping, Less negative or positive value = leaner mapping. Both of these are much bigger changes per setting than the fuel trims or main fuel settings. To the point of being .5 to 1 on the wideband per change!

Simpson If you like we can go for a tuning ride in the new year. I am stuck between work and family xmas stuff until the 3rd. It sounds like you are getting it figured out, just start at the settings given and make a small change and try it. The best two features of this control system is the immediate real difference a change can make and the consistancy of the map tuning if the sleds are set up the same. Track length, clutching, and fuel type/mixture all play into the fuelling, but the base map should be close.

 

[kanedog]

It's a moot point anyway Arctic Thunder. Boost it doesn't sell to US customers because of insurance issues.
You are a US customer. Therefore, you cannot buy one. I'm sure when you talked to Neal he told you that.
I'm out.

 

[stcatman]

moot point ???

It's a moot point anyway Arctic Thunder. Boost it doesn't sell to US customers because of insurance issues.
You are a US customer. Therefore, you cannot buy one. I'm sure when you talked to Neal he told you that.
I'm out.

Whats a moot point ???

 

[simpson]

Again nothing really wrong with my attitude box, I just like to tinker I suppose.

Thunder

So you are going to spend $1200 on another fuel controller because there is nothing really wrong with your attitude box?

Maybe I'm reading your quote wrong, but that makes no sense to me.

Why are you asking so many questions about a boost it box and rudely hijacking the OP's thread? He wanted to know about boost it's number. Not educate you on how a boost it works.
Now go start your own thread if ya wanna know more. Better yet, call or email Neil at boost it and ask him.
Thanks for letting me vent on you.[/QUOTE]

Well go somewhere els and vent because your not doing any good on here.... THANK YOU !!!!!!

 

[simpson]

The baro or threshold sett bing is the vac or boost pressure which the secondarys activate at. BUT the secondarys also activate on the min rpm number so you must have both set in order for the box to add fuel at the proper time (ie you must be above the min rpm setting and above the set vac or boost pressure). If your threshold is at -6 or more negative it will not impact the turn on timing of the secondarys b/c the sled will not build more vac than that -6" so the threshold is always active per say. In this case the min rpm setting will be the turn on point. You can verify this by the light on the box when you increase the rpm the light comes on when you are adding fuel via the secondary injectors. A gentle roll on throttle test will show you where your injectors turn on at. Now the threshold WILL make the map richer/leaner by a course amount. More negative value = richer mapping, Less negative or positive value = leaner mapping. Both of these are much bigger changes per setting than the fuel trims or main fuel settings. To the point of being .5 to 1 on the wideband per change!

Simpson If you like we can go for a tuning ride in the new year. I am stuck between work and family xmas stuff until the 3rd. It sounds like you are getting it figured out, just start at the settings given and make a small change and try it. The best two features of this control system is the immediate real difference a change can make and the consistancy of the map tuning if the sleds are set up the same. Track length, clutching, and fuel type/mixture all play into the fuelling, but the base map should be close.

Thanks !!!! I would be up for that anytime.... where are you located???? I have been out riding lots with the attitude box and having an awsome time so far this year...

 

[Arctic Thunder]

So it still isn't working? Maybe Neil could help ya out. I would have thought he would have been all over this thread by now.

Maybe not. Good luck.

Kind of a moot point considering those of us in the US can't purchase a boost-it box anyway due to warranty stuff. O well.

Thunder

 

[Polarisrocks]

What version are you running? 3.1 3.2 or 3.3?