Anyone comment on if we still need to swap our fork springs with the TSS kits? Or is a correct summer spring rate working now? Thanks!
TSS & Fork Spring Rates
- Thread starter TillTheEnd
- Start date
U
UPsnowbiker
Well-known member
My exact question as well.
Fork oil weight as well.
Fork oil weight as well.
M
mxracer299
Well-known member
With my sx I run .62 Springs with MX valving and I still bottom them out on big jumps... there's no way to hide from the weight difference when you land a jump with a 320lb snowbike that has forks sprung for a 240lb bike.
The new TSS equiped ST's can get away with softer fork settings then previous SX kits without diving/bottoming issues.
For lighter riders (140-175) We are seeing stock MX fork setups with compression clickers maxed out work rather well and front and rear bottom very similarly.
For trail bikes with softer suspension or heavier riders, increasing spring rate is not a bad idea. Although for the less aggressive riders, or those who do not jump, the TSS has greatly decreased the ski heavy diving tendencies of rigid mounted kits.
For lighter riders (140-175) We are seeing stock MX fork setups with compression clickers maxed out work rather well and front and rear bottom very similarly.
For trail bikes with softer suspension or heavier riders, increasing spring rate is not a bad idea. Although for the less aggressive riders, or those who do not jump, the TSS has greatly decreased the ski heavy diving tendencies of rigid mounted kits.
I would assume adding rebound dampening to the rear shocks and doing away with the single rate springs and adding the raptor tripple rate springs would transfer less energy to the forks upon a harsh landing on the rear.
Either way I'm going to find out.
Either way I'm going to find out.
I find it interesting that one of the most asked questions about snow bikes is suspension. Yet I believe the least understood. If the bike and kit (skid & frame) are a well thought out (engineered) union of symmetry you would expect to get harmonious results. Yet the first thing one must realize is motorcycles were never designed by the original manufacturers to have a snow bike kit bolted onto them. At the same time they do work quite well considering. Snowbikes are the king of true duel sport vehicles. This being a testament to their success and interest.
However there will always be room for improvement. The ongoing year to year improvements have mostly been about the geometry, ski, track, drive, & suspension (both the skid and front forks) of the unit to work better in snow. That being said, suspension is the biggest variable that must be set up properly by the owner (rider). If your suspension is not set correct
according to your rig, weight, riding style, terrain, etc. it can be less than an enjoyable experience.
My recommendation for riders who are not well versed or do not have the tools or time, is to get a professional or fellow rider who has the expertise and experience to help set your suspension up properly for you as I believe this is the single most important variable that should be addressed to help you enjoy snowbiking and experience it to its fullest potential.
However there will always be room for improvement. The ongoing year to year improvements have mostly been about the geometry, ski, track, drive, & suspension (both the skid and front forks) of the unit to work better in snow. That being said, suspension is the biggest variable that must be set up properly by the owner (rider). If your suspension is not set correct
according to your rig, weight, riding style, terrain, etc. it can be less than an enjoyable experience.
My recommendation for riders who are not well versed or do not have the tools or time, is to get a professional or fellow rider who has the expertise and experience to help set your suspension up properly for you as I believe this is the single most important variable that should be addressed to help you enjoy snowbiking and experience it to its fullest potential.
Just like a dirtbike, or really anything for that matter. Riding a bike with worn out, over or under sprung and its NO fun, ride a setup properly tailored to your riding style, amazing how much easier and enjoyable ride quality is!
I'm waiting on the TSS to show up, might have to run with a lighter spring that are in it see how it works. I found last season that I didn't need to go as stiff as some guys were but when I rode a valve stack that was more "soft on the bottom but ramped up heavy" was the best of both I was only 3 sizes up on springs. I cant wait to ride this thing with TSS I think its going to be the bomb. I had never seen a timbersled in person before I bought one and when we looked at all the parts I called and asked why I had a solid rod to the shock mount, didn't make any sense at all... I guess they had the same thought....
I am running stock fork springs with my TSS on my 16 kit. Just cranked them up as tight as they go and no problems. Never bottomed or experience diving of any sort
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
K
ktmbrock
Member
One of the main reasons for hard bottoming is the loss of the hydraulic stop in the bottom of the fork. With the fork clamps limiting travel by 30 mm, the forks will blow through the stroke, not allowing the bottoming cone to hydrolock. This is why having the forks revalved and resprung is mandatory for a good setup TSS or strut rod.
i had .51 last year and went with .56 this year along with a TSS kit and its perfect imo. I bottomed out hard last year.
175lb rider without gear on a 13 sxf 450
175lb rider without gear on a 13 sxf 450
