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Tsled chain lube from factory???

From what I can tell, the chains are just lubed with the normal grease/lube that they have on them when they come out of the package. I don't know if Timbersled is adding any lube to them once installed.

Moisture is our adversary in this sport. A good practice is when you get finished riding and get the bike thawed out, spray some Maxima MPPL or WD-40 on the chains to displace the moisture. Then you can follow that with your preferred wax or lube. This will keep the chains happy and last a long time.
 
wax ??

chain wax is one of the longest runnng jokes in the motorcycle world, snipe hunts.......ditto.
 
chain wax is one of the longest runnng jokes in the motorcycle world, snipe hunts.......ditto.

I always liked to use the wax over a more traditional lube. Seems like it coats the chain and helps hold lube a little. Why do you say its a joke?
 
a lube

riding long enduro's, the sprayed on chain wax was gone the first 5 miles. 2 laps on an mx track maybe

try and find chain lube any more ? I have several cans of bike shop stuff, thin dripping foamy, on the primary chain its good for the first 4 miles to the hills then the chain is cleaned.

nasty sticky black and iky, WIRE ROPE INDUSTRIAL LUBE, best I've used, you won't like it if you have a trailer queen, careful to put it on and let it sit for a day..........other wise it will sling off like most lubes and color up your new pants, I thoroughly lubed my TS chain in the chain case before 1st ride of the year, its still a black horrible mess n there after riding for over a month............but lubed.
 
Cable tar.......

Ughgghhh.... That is nasty stuff, but I expect it would do the job, I've seen enough of that stuff from my derrick hand days in the patch...


The white gummy stuff that's on it from the factory seems to stay on ok, what is that stuff??? White lithium???, seems too gummy....
 
I had a support deal with silkolene before they stopped there amateur support program, and I was fortunate enough to buy cases of the products I liked while I could. The Pro chain lube holds up to long offroad races very well. Its thin, but as long as you let it dry a little before you ride your good. I think the TS lube is White Lithium. If a guy was super worried about chain life best would probably be to soak the chains in 90wt or something regularly. I ditch the O-rings for lightweight moto chain and don't mind replacing it when the time comes. On my offroad bikes the oring chains will out live the sprockets. Why, they all need replaced together anyway. Vortex non-ring race chain rated at 9000lbs works great by me.
 
Semi off topic. When I pull the chain case cover off it appears there is no tension or way to adjust the chain case chain? Am I missing something? Must be a pain to switch it out if is fairly tight?
 
There is a bolt on the middle plastic idler sprocket. Loosen that and it slides to the side to tighten or loosen the chain. Timber sled recommends 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch free play on the long side of the chain.
 
There is a school of thought in the dirt bike world regarding o ring chains that says no lube, just a clean chain. Wax just attracts dirt that gets in and does damage. Plus it makes a mess. On my dirtbike I just clean my chain with WD-40 after every ride and wash.
On my snow bike however, I am still using wax.
 
There is a bolt on the middle plastic idler sprocket. Loosen that and it slides to the side to tighten or loosen the chain. Timber sled recommends 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch free play on the long side of the chain.

Thanks, still learning about the snowbikes.
 
Bell Ray extra clean dries white stays on almost for ever and does not attract dirt even in the summer. It goes on supper thin and dries to a semi solid state that does not come of unless you use gas or WD 40. I usually do the WD 40 trick every so many rides and than re lube with the Bel Ray.
 
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