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TS ski fine tuning

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portgrinder

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
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Edmonton
Well the new TS ski is a vast improvement, just as good as the yeti in fluff. Better when slightly warm and the yeti plugs up.

but it’s still not as good as the yeti ski when you’re racing your buddy down a corduroy twisty trail. Can’t trust it when taking an inside line to square up your buddy and put him over the bank. Seems to shimmy around and grab from time to time. Has anyone cut down the front of the metal side keels? Basically what yeti did in 2015 to take some bite out in front of the pivot point.
 

wwillf01

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Aug 12, 2012
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Heber Ut
Yep do it on all of the t skis and shim it a bit ..


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CATSLEDMAN1

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Premium Member
Nov 27, 2007
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Missoula, Montana
are you talking about the skis that came out with the ARO/then RIOT

If so ......I have found

1. you have to find the sweet spot of moving your ski , so the ski bolt is 1.4 to 2" behind the axle on your bike, brand to brand and model to model there are not absolutes, but failing to play with this adjustments make complaints about handling pretty weak.

2 shimming or using tougher ski rubbers so your ski has minimal tip movement up when hitting powder is a game changer.

3. I have cut back and played with skags, I run the tri carbide gold or whatever they are called, I haven't made as big an improvement as moving the ski front to back etc.

4. ON a TS kit if you are running stock springs and weigh over 140 lbs, then unitil you figure correct spring weights, don't complain about the ski. You have to fix and co ordinate your front suspension to your rear suspension before you can figure out your ski.

5. they only come in Black last time I checked ?
 
Last edited:

wwillf01

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Aug 12, 2012
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Heber Ut
I shim with a small piece of 1/8 aluminum to make the starting angle better. I do use the new aro/riot ski. I always balance the front and back. I am a heavy guy so I go wayyy stiffer front a back. My kit is fairly custom jammed way farther under my bike. In most situations I personally like the yeti ski better besides corn snow. But it is not a big enough difference for me to change it.


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cbc76am

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Lifetime Membership
Dec 5, 2016
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Bothell WA
are you talking about the skis that came out with the ARO/then RIOT

If so ......I have found

1. you have to find the sweet spot of moving your ski , so the ski bolt is 1.4 to 2" behind the axle on your bike, brand to brand and model to model there are not absolutes, but failing to play with this adjustments make complaints about handling pretty weak.

2 shimming or using tougher ski rubbers so your ski has minimal tip movement up when hitting powder is a game changer.

3. I have cut back and played with skags, I run the tri carbide gold or whatever they are called, I haven't made as big an improvement as moving the ski front to back etc.

4. ON a TS kit if you are running stock springs and weigh over 140 lbs, then unitil you figure correct spring weights, don't complain about the ski. You have to fix and co ordinate your front suspension to your rear suspension before you can figure out your ski.

5. they only come in Black last time I checked ?
CSM- do you leave the shim in place with the durapro bumper? curious what degree of a ramp is on that if so. I was considering just cutting the bracing out of the ski to get a press sung fit with the durapro and skipping the aluminum - but i'm still a bit foggy how much you are tipping the ski nose up and if that is from the durapro or your existing wedge under the plate.

thanks
cbc
 

CATSLEDMAN1

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 27, 2007
2,630
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Missoula, Montana
shimming the ski is to make the ski tip level /slightly nose up and keep it from coming up fast and easy when turning. if you exaggerate the situation and take the ski rubber out, when you turn in a ft of snow especially if its crusty or damp with no ski rubber or a wore out ski rubber, when you initiate the turn the ski tip comes up too fast and tooo far, the ski becomes in the moment a big blunt object keeping your snow bike from going forward...........all bad.It can stop you in your tacks, kill the motor and over your go.

a stiff ski rubber with a slightly tip up attitude on trails keeps you riding more on the tail or back haft of the ski and or at least putting the most pressure on the back half of ski. this will reduce the wandering of your ski, less tendency to follow old ski grooves, quiets down the handling at speed. you don't want your ski tip out front being the point of contact with hard snow / trails.

I find this adjustment of the ski tip is a never ending maintenance issues. None of the rubbers will last a season keeping the ski tight. Ski has to move but you want it to take some effort. So last spring I put in the duropro, this fall it is looser after spring riding, I need to run it into the shop and ski if I can tighten it up.
 

Sheetmetalfab

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Oct 5, 2010
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……..
shimming the ski is to make the ski tip level /slightly nose up and keep it from coming up fast and easy when turning. if you exaggerate the situation and take the ski rubber out, when you turn in a ft of snow especially if its crusty or damp with no ski rubber or a wore out ski rubber, when you initiate the turn the ski tip comes up too fast and tooo far, the ski becomes in the moment a big blunt object keeping your snow bike from going forward...........all bad.It can stop you in your tacks, kill the motor and over your go.

a stiff ski rubber with a slightly tip up attitude on trails keeps you riding more on the tail or back haft of the ski and or at least putting the most pressure on the back half of ski. this will reduce the wandering of your ski, less tendency to follow old ski grooves, quiets down the handling at speed. you don't want your ski tip out front being the point of contact with hard snow / trails.

I find this adjustment of the ski tip is a never ending maintenance issues. None of the rubbers will last a season keeping the ski tight. Ski has to move but you want it to take some effort. So last spring I put in the duropro, this fall it is looser after spring riding, I need to run it into the shop and ski if I can tighten it up.
Fyi there’s a much better option than durapro now.

 

CATSLEDMAN1

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 27, 2007
2,630
1,207
113
75
Missoula, Montana
One of my riding partners was complaining about his twitchy ARO ski on the trail, not so bad off trail. Upon further checking his steering head bearing in his KTM 450 big bore where shot. Fell out in pieces. KTM parts on backorder and $75. $14 for SKF at Napa auto. And oh yeah what a big difference, now quiet and straight and confident feeling, Checked all our bikes, had a honda that was looses but only year old and bearing ok.
 
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