Trying to make an EZ Ryde Better

[SylvanLaker]

I have an EZ Ryde under my TNytro. I love it except when the hills get steep and I can't steer it as the skis go in the air. We do real technical riding and I have to be able to steer it..

I was thinking of limiting the travel of the rear shock by rebuilding the shock and putting in a teflon top out spacer and then installing a stiffer spring. Also I was going to replcace the bottom out stopper with a real stiff spring to limit it dipping to far down into the shock. I think it would ride good still. The biggest problem with the EZ Ryde is it has so much travel that when it is bottomed out you lose track tension and it can ratchet with bad drivers (fixed got Avids). Nevertheless I could run my track looser with the shock mods I am speaking of.. Just like to hear some comments as I can't be the first guy to mess around with this stuff..

DS

 

[Motleyone]

I liked the EZ Ryde on the Nytro. Next to the M10 it is my favorite skid. A couple suggestions and ideas. Go with a 200 or a 250 rear spring for the Nytro. It makes all the difference in the world. With the EZ Ryde and Avids I still ran my track almost banjo tight to avoid any slippage. I would get a few runs in on the same surface until I could feel that the tighter track was not robbing any power then I would look it down and use wire in my tensioner bolts to avoid them backing out. I also ran my front shock about 3/4 of an inch further forward and up an inch to flatten the track out a bit. That with the 250 rear spring made mine climb really good and still managable in the trees. I thought about building some transfer blocks about an inch long to stop the rear from flattening out so much but I never got around to it before I went to the M10.

 

[throttlecable]

Ti spring

X2 on the rear spring. We use these dual rate Ti units with favorable results. Some guys who try them don't like them because now they can"t get the sled to wheelie anymore.

 

[TARI]

With our Terra Alps tunnels I have incorporated all the suspension holes for the stock suspensions, Ez ryde and new M10 suspension with adjustability to it. We are able to lower our chassis and make the sled easier to manouver with a lower centre of mass weight balance. Maybe you can try to lower the front section of the suspension. Or stiffen one of the rear springs to a higher rate, maybe change how the suspension is bolted into the chassis might help as well. I find with long travel suspension like these you will get some more transfering because of the longer travel which is made to absorb more bumps. I also tuck the suspension into the tunnel farther so the sled isn't so jacked up. With the sleds of today that are so fast with 250HP+ we don't need jacked up sleds for snow clearance that are top heavy, I don't see how guys can ride aggressively with a poorly set up sled. You can also try changing your body positioning to keep the front end down. lean forward more. maybe your bars are to high and makes you pull back on them (leverage) which is causing the sled to wheely to much?
http://www.terraalpsracing.com/product/nytro-yamaha-08-11

 

[XtremeSpeedShop]

We found a lot of people run the skid to far out of the tunnel also. Not only do they transfer more they also tend to ratchet with the approach angle being steep which is allso improved with mmoving the skid up. Stiffer rear spring helps and also shorting the front shock will also. Then moving it farther back changes things up to. I've also had good luck with moving the steering post farther forward and or going to pivot riser to move your body weight forward. Take your 200lbs of body weight 4- 6in forward keeps the skis down a lot. Hope that helped!

 

[Duke]

Sell, Buy M10, dont look back

 

[Tuesday]

On the newer skid my track runs very loose with no ratcheting.

It is annoying when changing skid but you could definitely mount your rear shock higher into your tunnel.

The newer skids come with a 3/4 inch shorter front shock.

This year I tried a 280lb spring but only got one test ride on it. My front shock had the lower cross member break so did not get much testing done that day.

I sent the shocks in to have them serviced oil/recharged and also had them revalve the shocks (stiffer). I have not had a chance to try this set up yet. If it is still wheeling on steep climbs I plan to run the front shock with very little compression and possibly move the bottom mount of the front shock towards the rear to flatten/soften the front shock even more.

The EZ ryde is a great skid just could be better on the steeper climbs. I spent alot of seat time on a nytro with an M10 and on long steep climbs it just holds the skies down yet is still manageable in other riding areas. It would still lift the front end enough that you didnt have massive ski pressure. There are times when you need a bit of wheelie (like across those open creeks). Also on longer pulls I noticed my arms would be tired because you are pulling yourself forward so hard. On the m10......no arm pump. Originally I thought the sled with the M10 was not pulling as hard because you could not feel it but in reality it was just working better.

 

[Tuesday]

I also have the relocation bracket and recommend it. More forward and better handle bar turning geometry. I hate it on the stock set up when you turn the bars and they swing down towards the tank.

 

[EZ RYDE]

The following attachment addresses the discussion in this topic. Please call us if you have any setup questions.

EZ RYDE (906) 482-7530

 

[Tuesday]

I have been going through the list. Hopefully the new valving will help if not I may need to move the front shock back a bit.

Thanks for the paste.