Gates "C" BELT?
TRS Clutching [ PART THREE ]
- Thread starter 562xp
- Start date
- Status
Gates "C" BELT?
This is on a 14 pro,Silber turbo 7# boost. Elevation 5-7 thousand feet.163" track 8 tooth drivers 2.86 pitch,2.6 track and 2.41 gear ratio. Thermo bypass. Thanks TRS. Motor strap mod. Thanks TRS. Green white valve springs. Thanks TRS.
46-32 er 46-34 er. with reverse notch machined out.Thanks for the pics TRS. 140-220 secondary spring with 2 delrins. 165-310 primary. 72.2 gram Lightning weights. Clutch center to center 11.5" Gates carbon belt. Belt to sheave clearance .030". Deflection on the tight side but not squealing. Motor has the torque pull strap and push strap.
All i can say is wow! 3 feet of bottomless snow today. Pulls very hard. 8250 rpm .No belt slip. No black marks on sheaves. Clutches just warm to touch. One thing i would like to do is lower engagement rpm which is 4400. Once clutches and belt are warmed up it is not as high around 42- 4300 rpm.Would prefer 3900- 4100.I tried a 150-300 but it made no change. Any one have an idea how to lower engagement without affecting anything else.
If anyone is sitting on the fence about trying this setup i say go for it! Could not be happier! Thanks to TRS and everyone else who contributed to this thread . It is a wealth of info!
46-32 er 46-34 er. with reverse notch machined out.Thanks for the pics TRS. 140-220 secondary spring with 2 delrins. 165-310 primary. 72.2 gram Lightning weights. Clutch center to center 11.5" Gates carbon belt. Belt to sheave clearance .030". Deflection on the tight side but not squealing. Motor has the torque pull strap and push strap.
All i can say is wow! 3 feet of bottomless snow today. Pulls very hard. 8250 rpm .No belt slip. No black marks on sheaves. Clutches just warm to touch. One thing i would like to do is lower engagement rpm which is 4400. Once clutches and belt are warmed up it is not as high around 42- 4300 rpm.Would prefer 3900- 4100.I tried a 150-300 but it made no change. Any one have an idea how to lower engagement without affecting anything else.
If anyone is sitting on the fence about trying this setup i say go for it! Could not be happier! Thanks to TRS and everyone else who contributed to this thread . It is a wealth of info!
Last edited:
Aint stock drivers 7T 2.86 Pitch. Now he has 7T 3.0. So a factor of 0.88 vs 0.92. That means the 3.0 Pitch is bigger and his final drive is thus lower.
Not with the chain case model. Chain case only came with 3" track and it has the 3 pitch drivers.
Ok thanks guys! I have 20/42 gears on the shelf, would that work? What gear ratio would that give me? Should fit with stock chain also right?
Heres some swedish turbo fun for ya??: https://instagram.com/p/BQ8NM-jFVML/
8300 rpm, clutch gear 1:1, chaincase gear 2,32 (19/44), 7T 3" give you 115 km/h (72 mph)
8300 rpm, clutch gear 1:1, chaincase gear 2,1 (20/42), 7T 3" give you 126 km/h (79 mph)
8300 rpm, clutch gear 1:1, chaincase gear 2,1 (20/42), 7T 3" give you 126 km/h (79 mph)
You want to go 20 43
Why is that? To get the right gear ratio or to make it fit with stock chain lenght?
With 7 tooth drivers this will give you a 2.33 final drive ratio. 2.32 is arguably the best gear ratio for our purposes.
Belt Witness Marks
There has been a lot of talk about belt witness marks, etc.... when looking at the belt what is a good guideline for which way to move it into proper alignment?
If the witness mark is lower into the cog on the inside of the belt does the secondary need to move in or out?
There has been a lot of talk about belt witness marks, etc.... when looking at the belt what is a good guideline for which way to move it into proper alignment?
If the witness mark is lower into the cog on the inside of the belt does the secondary need to move in or out?
B
briand
Well-known member
Clutch alignment
Just wanted to post findings that i have noticed so far with this TRS setup.
Mainly you really need to have your clutching alignment really parallel to what Tony recommends as i have since found out.
MY INITIAL setup was at .160 alignment . and with this alignment you just cant get rid of all the primary clutch fixed sheive heat generated from even just cruising around. the stiffer the spring say like a 140-120 this was about as low of clutch heat i had and going with lower rates would just add to heat while cruising around. Basically what i think is happening is with the lower rate angle and lower rate end spring rate it makes the secondary more efficient where as the motor wont flex into parallelism as before with the higher rate springs and angle.
Now what i ended up doing was loosen all the motor mounts and adjust the motor as much as i can to get the offset more parallel then retighten them. Got it down to .060 offset now. I will be doing what tony recommended to do in one of his post to get it parallel later on this summer but for now i will finish it off like this for this spring.
I have now got the heat issue more in line to what i like when using lower end rate springs.
So guys its really important to try and get this alignment right especially when you do a lot of low speed trail riding up the trail.
Just wanted to post findings that i have noticed so far with this TRS setup.
Mainly you really need to have your clutching alignment really parallel to what Tony recommends as i have since found out.
MY INITIAL setup was at .160 alignment . and with this alignment you just cant get rid of all the primary clutch fixed sheive heat generated from even just cruising around. the stiffer the spring say like a 140-120 this was about as low of clutch heat i had and going with lower rates would just add to heat while cruising around. Basically what i think is happening is with the lower rate angle and lower rate end spring rate it makes the secondary more efficient where as the motor wont flex into parallelism as before with the higher rate springs and angle.
Now what i ended up doing was loosen all the motor mounts and adjust the motor as much as i can to get the offset more parallel then retighten them. Got it down to .060 offset now. I will be doing what tony recommended to do in one of his post to get it parallel later on this summer but for now i will finish it off like this for this spring.
I have now got the heat issue more in line to what i like when using lower end rate springs.
So guys its really important to try and get this alignment right especially when you do a lot of low speed trail riding up the trail.
Last edited:
To add to the post above^^^
It is becoming apparent that the Axys ( especially under boost) motor mounts have to really be kept an eye on for movement.
Parallelism has to be kept in check and should not be ignored!!
It is becoming apparent that the Axys ( especially under boost) motor mounts have to really be kept an eye on for movement.
Parallelism has to be kept in check and should not be ignored!!
Thanks briand,
Question on the set up, are you running the Daltons, tied, and red spring that you have listed?
B
briand
Well-known member
Yes i am. I have tried a few different secondary springs 140-220, 140-200, 120-220, and a 100-150. The 140 starting rate springs seem to give me the least amount of clutch heat on the fixed primary sheave while in the cruising range with the tied setup. Now i a convinced once i get the alignment to near 0 this will take care of the heat issue.
With the Daltons you need to add a fair bit of tip weight i'm at 2.6 grams here with the polaris red 120-245 primary. This pulls really well to the top end.
Last edited:
This set up pulls like crazy. Seems a bit soft on the bottom in the trees. Long legged. Track speed is up there for sure. Mine is engaging at 4600. Doesn't start coming alive till 6600rpm, was 6000rpm. Not liking that. max rpm is 8500 across the lake in a couple ft. 76.7 gram lightning weights. 3-6000 ft w/7#s
165-310 pri
140-220 sec
46-32/ 46-34 clearly the shallowest helix yet.
I was running 82 grams with rooster wts
81 with Dan.
76.7 with lightning wts.
165-310 pri
140-220 sec
46-32/ 46-34 clearly the shallowest helix yet.
I was running 82 grams with rooster wts
81 with Dan.
76.7 with lightning wts.
Whats your final drive gearing ?
Which weights of Dan's were you running?
7 tooth drivers with a TKI belt drive 25 tooth top gear. It feels like I put 8 tooth drivers and a bigger top gear.
174-3'' aren't meant to go 85 mph.
- Status
Similar threads
