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Troubles with 08 XP...

My sled has been acting up. big time.
It started on my way down the trail after a 12 hour day. My lights (headlights and dash) shut off for a few minutes and my sled lost about half of its power and now sounds terrible. Since then the check engine light has been on and the grip heaters and speedometer don't work and it has continued to run poorly. Right away I dropped it off at the local dealership where they"re-set some codes" and told me it was fixed. When I got it home nothing had changed. It has full compression, spark in both plugs and I have tried swapping the ECM and the Ignition Coils with a friends working sled with no luck. It runs around 5000 rpms when putting around and 7-8 when pinned, which I believe is normal but it tops out at a certain (slow) speed and just wont go any faster. Any suggestions would be super appreciated, Thanks!
 
So you engine is pulling full RPM but the speed is not increasing? If that's the case start looking into your clutching. I'd check your rollers in the secondary clutch first since you can do this with a flashlight and no tool.
 
Thanks, both of these suggestions helped with the overall performance of my sled but the problem was simply a blown fuse. Really stoked I didn't have to take it back to the shop and it rides like a dream again.
 
Colston did you also get a flashing battery icon? My 09 started running like crap a couple nights ago.Sounds like a kazoo has been stuck on the end of the exhaust, no power and the afore mentioned flashing icon. Also when switching from low beam (only 1 bulb working) to high beam the gauges shut down for a second (needles swing to zero then come back up) and high beams are dim. Limped it home and haven't looked at it yet as there is already a dead sled in the garage. No check engine light or limp mode warnings either.
 
Nevermind. Took the Renegade out today and discovered it is developing a hole in the pipe. Started out a little loud and got worse. Which then reminded me of the last time that happened a couple seasons ago. Apparently this Dynoport pipe has a tendency to do that (first one replaced for free). The battery icon has something to do with my burnt out headlight I believe. Switching to high beams makes my gauges act wierd. They shutdown for a second and just about every warning icon on it lights up. Fuse is fine so hopefully just changing out burnt bulb wiil remedy the gauge situation.
 
08 and maybe 09's had a problem with the red wire coming off the voltage regulator rubbing on a rivet in the bulkhead. The regulator is mounted in back of the chain case on top of tunnel/bulkhead, real pain to see and work on. Intermittent shorting out will cause goofy problems while a complete short to the tunnel/ground kills everything. The fix is pull the wire up away from rivet and squirt some silicone in there and good to go. This happened quite a bit in the first few years of the XP.
 
So I called Dynoport, got a new pipe on the way. Rich gave me a deal even tho the pipe is a few years old (although not many miles/hours,I have a couple other sleds that I ride, which I explained). I thought that was pretty stand up of him. Once that's in I'll have to see if remedying my electrical problem was as easy as changing the bulb..... yeah yeah I know, probably not. If no go, then i'll take a look at that red wire LRD mentioned.
 
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[FONT=&quot]REV-XP Wiring Harness Issues [/FONT][FONT=&quot]No. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]2008-20[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] Voltage Regulator Wires Chafing, Taillight Wires Chafing[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Intermittent Electrical Fluctuations on XP's [/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Fluctuations in electrical power on REV-XPTM model units. Dealers have reported finding the RD/BL wire contacting the frame in the area of the voltage regulator. The regulator and associated wiring can be found directly behind the chain-case and can be easily accessed by removing the after muffler. Simply repair any damage to the wiring. DC voltage is supplied through the regulator originating from the stator and the entire system is dependant a constant supply. Regulator output can be tested at any available RD/BL wire found in the chaincase area.
[/FONT]

Taillight Wires Chafing
NOTICE Taillight lens is held in place by two
plastic pins inserted in rubber grommets. If
lens is forced too far sideways when removing,
the lensmounting pins may break and lens will
have to be replaced. Do not pull lens out too far
to avoid damagingwiring.​

1. Remove taillight lens by carefully pulling on
lens at both ends.​
2. Rotate bulb holder counterclockwise to remove
it from lens.
3. Carefully pull taillight harness toward the rear
of vehicle.
NOTE: If the lens does not pull out far enough to
work on, the locking tie for the taillight harness under
the fuel tank may have to be removed and the
harness laid down in the tunnel channel. Refer to
the following steps:
– Remove fuel tank side trim panels.
– Remove fuel tank side retaining nuts.
– Remove fuel tank side shoulder bushings.
– Slightly lift up rear part of fuel tank.
– Cut taillight harness locking tie.
– Stretch taillight harness in the tunnel channel.
– Reinstall fuel tank shoulder bushings.
– Secure fuel tank side retaining nuts to 33 N•m
(24 lbf•ft).
– Reinstall fuel tank side trim panels.
4. Pull protector tube toward the bulb holder to
protectwires.​
5. Secure protector tube on wires using a locking
tie
 
So I put the new can on and replaced the burnt bulb but did not check the wire that was mentioned a couple posts ago. Certainly should have. After going for a ride with the crazy gauges and lit battery light and then later reading the next post about the same issue I will look at that tomorrow. Betting thats wherein the problem lies. Sled did haul though!
 
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