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Trailer glides and traction for ramps

Snowbird11

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I'm looking to avoid some mistakes so any ideas are appreciated. This is my first enclosed trailer. It's a 14'box w/4' V x 8.5 wide deck over with front driver's side ramp and rear ramp. What is the best product for ramp traction? I've thought about 4 caliber grips spread out on each loading ramp but a trax grabber with trax mats indoor might work as well. If I use the mats I'll need to rip them so they don't cover the airline track recessed in the floor. With that in mind, I'm not above cutting some spare redwood for traction.

For glides it seems like there are plenty of options out there. Caliber makes a couple styles and other companies do too. Some have had good luck with the quad flooring but I'm told the carbides will eat it up. That leaves me looking back to the solid glides for interior and these for the ramps:
Caliber Grip Glides Straight Front Tilt Set 13350, 22-pc https://a.co/d/1TihiVr

Any better options out there for the value?
 

christopher

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Worth considering
 
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Snowbird11

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Worth considering

Those are nice but wider than I need. I am looking at the superclamp tie downs though.
 
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volcano buster

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Stayton Oregon
I load mine from the front and haul 3 real easy. I usually only haul 155's, but I have had 165 and a 175 in there as well. For fun, I used to have 2 144's, a 136" and I would also put a snow scoot and a Polaris 120 and still be able to shut the doors.
I started with the superclamp slides, but ended up replacing with Caliber once I wore notches in them from the carbides. Either works but I think the Caliber units were a bit cheaper.
Being that I haul sleds in all different directions I just used a 2-part epoxy since 2007. I just redid it last summer. 3/8" nap roller to cause some "white caps" in the epoxy so it wasn't ice rink slick.
 

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Snowbird11

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SLC/Samak, Ut
I load mine from the front and haul 3 real easy. I usually only haul 155's, but I have had 165 and a 175 in there as well. For fun, I used to have 2 144's, a 136" and I would also put a snow scoot and a Polaris 120 and still be able to shut the doors.
I started with the superclamp slides, but ended up replacing with Caliber once I wore notches in them from the carbides. Either works but I think the Caliber units were a bit cheaper.
Being that I haul sleds in all different directions I just used a 2-part epoxy since 2007. I just redid it last summer. 3/8" nap roller to cause some "white caps" in the epoxy so it wasn't ice rink slick.

That's good news. I'd rather put the sleds in the box than in the bed. I only have one sled longer than 155 now and the 155's are slash tunnels so that should work fine.

After some thought, I will likely ditch the ramp extension flaps for some caliber edge glides to transition over the hump. I might add 3' of edge guard for the cables on each side of the ramp and use the stand alone grip glides (3"x8.5") on the ramps with caliber grips (15"x2 3/4). Interior I like the idea of low profile options like the low pro glides or black ice 7' sticks if I won't end up on my ass. Those look slick in winter or when wet. I'm still undecided on the interior track traction. I can use .5" redwood or rubber mats. Any thoughts?


On a side note, the rear ramp says it has a 1500lb rating. Have you ever had more than that on it? I'm wanting to leave options open for haling a SxS on occasion.
 
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volcano buster

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The guys here that try to put a SxS in their enclosed run into clearance issues at the top of rear door or the roof itself. With the wheelbase of a SxS, you would likely only have one axle at a time on the ramp, or if they were both on, the tire would be near the ends of the span anyway.
The floor on mine can be slick until the epoxy starts to age a little bit but loading from either end and having to slide skis sideways when loading I've jut gotten used to the way mine is.
 
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Snowbird11

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SLC/Samak, Ut
The guys here that try to put a SxS in their enclosed run into clearance issues at the top of rear door or the roof itself. With the wheelbase of a SxS, you would likely only have one axle at a time on the ramp, or if they were both on, the tire would be near the ends of the span anyway.
The floor on mine can be slick until the epoxy starts to age a little bit but loading from either end and having to slide skis sideways when loading I've jut gotten used to the way mine is.

Thanks for the info. This one has a little bit of a beaver tail and the rear opening is 80in with an 83in box height. That should fit in and hopefully span the weight pretty well on the ramp seeing as how it's a four-seater with a long wheel base.

I'm going to leave the traction off the floor for now and just put some on the ramps with glides inside. I'll try those individual traction ski glides on the ramps as well. I'm pretty sure whoever the branding wiz is at caliber is pretty limited on their vocabulary since every product sounds dang near the same. Lucky for them the stuff kind of sells itself.
 
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