Trailer floor protection
- Thread starter Elevation
- Start date
You're gonna get 50 ways to do this.
For me I went the cheapest way I could. Went to junk yard / auto salvage and bought RIBBED truck bed liners $15 each. Cut up and used as guide rails for sled tracks. Screwed them into trailer frame through plywood floor with zinc coated self taping screws.
For the plywood floor took marine fiberglass , 2 part makes 1.5 gallons.
First coat I diluted it with spirits so it would soak into the wood making it "fiberglass". Got some washed sand ($6 a bag) mixed together with fiberglass for second coat creating a non slip surface.
Did a 20 foot trailer for under $150 bucks. Coated the inside AND underneath with fiberglass and still have some fiberglass left over. No rust no corrossion no slip no problem.
You can take the scraps of the bed liner and use then as steps / traction for the sled track between the rails.
To fasten the sleds to the floor I bought E-TRACK rails ... same as used in commercial trailers. $10 for 5 feet. They hold 50,000 pounds before breaking. Only have then screwed into frame so the are probably able to hold a ton or two of load with SS screws.
For me I went the cheapest way I could. Went to junk yard / auto salvage and bought RIBBED truck bed liners $15 each. Cut up and used as guide rails for sled tracks. Screwed them into trailer frame through plywood floor with zinc coated self taping screws.
For the plywood floor took marine fiberglass , 2 part makes 1.5 gallons.
First coat I diluted it with spirits so it would soak into the wood making it "fiberglass". Got some washed sand ($6 a bag) mixed together with fiberglass for second coat creating a non slip surface.
Did a 20 foot trailer for under $150 bucks. Coated the inside AND underneath with fiberglass and still have some fiberglass left over. No rust no corrossion no slip no problem.
You can take the scraps of the bed liner and use then as steps / traction for the sled track between the rails.
To fasten the sleds to the floor I bought E-TRACK rails ... same as used in commercial trailers. $10 for 5 feet. They hold 50,000 pounds before breaking. Only have then screwed into frame so the are probably able to hold a ton or two of load with SS screws.
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T
Trenchmaster
Well-known member
I'm going to paint my trailer floor then cover it with another layer of thin plywood. My trailer is 3 years old and the floor is starting to get chewed up.
Exterior bed.......use waste oil. The cheapest and longest lasting. Apply once every two years with a paint brush.
Interior bed.....use 1/4" plywood and coat with waste oil, too. Easiest and cheapest.
Interior bed.....use 1/4" plywood and coat with waste oil, too. Easiest and cheapest.
Spray bedliner is real nice! Then ski skins if you're real picky about keeping things looking new.
S
sledhead699
Member
i second the cut up bead liners they work great and no problems have two years in them now.
How many strips can you get from one standard bedliner? How many bedliners would I need for a 27' trailer?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Used two bed liners for a 20 foot rear load only trailer and share the centerline track with two rows of sled. Figure a bedliner is 3.5x7.5 feet of usable ribbed track with the sides for fill. I went 10 inches wide so did 4 strips per bedliner 7.5 long.
You can get bedliners for darn near free from the shops who spray on bedliners. They will cut them before you get them so you don't use them as a truck bedliner.
So 27/7 = 4 sections 12 strips for trailer bed shared centerline. So 3 bed liners. If sides not ribbed get a forth for the rear ramps and one if you have two front ramps. So I would say 4 bedliners , 5 with front ramp doors.
If you get one not matching the others use it on the door ramps.
I've done both the cut up bed liner deal over wood in a 4 place and then did it right with a full lined floor. The spray on lined floor has lasted 3 years but is finally starting to show some tears. It was supposed to be layed on 4-6mm thick but it is actually mostly about 1mm. Big trailer with lots of floor so it was a lot of material. The thick areas are still fine...the problem spots are thin and got sliced clear through by aggressive Polaris carbides going in reverse out of the trailer. The liner would normally take the slice but be thick enough to not cut clean through. If the applicator would have done a better job it would still be perfect. Oh well you don't complain when it's sponsored..but dang! I would redo the liner in an instant but make sure the applicator knows what they are doing and is reputable. It is slick when frozen so you need to use caution but over all it's the best route for a trailer floor other then buying a Mirage with their floor.
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I use the ski skins to stop from cutting the lineX froor , did not use the guides as you slip on the when moving around and they are hard on the knees when working on the sleds .
I dont do anything but swwep the snow and ice out.
my enclosed is an 02, NOTHING has been done to the floor. I personally think sealing the floor is a bad thing, I think moisture is absorbed from the top ofthe wood and the bottom (road side) and to dry quickly both sides need to breath if you seal the top the moisture all has to go out the bottom side. I have noticed nearly all "lined" trailer bubble after a season or two. my advice leave it.
spomey
my enclosed is an 02, NOTHING has been done to the floor. I personally think sealing the floor is a bad thing, I think moisture is absorbed from the top ofthe wood and the bottom (road side) and to dry quickly both sides need to breath if you seal the top the moisture all has to go out the bottom side. I have noticed nearly all "lined" trailer bubble after a season or two. my advice leave it.
spomey
K
Kong
ACCOUNT CLOSED
I use the plastic guards. This time we got the extra wide ones/low profile. They are working great, second season. I can easily turn the sled on them and move the sleds around.
I hated the deep grove ones. If I hit the wrong groove it was a pain and they are hard on the knees when you are working on the sled on/in the trailer.
I think I got them on a good deal at Shade Tree. They usually have a big discount early season.
I hated the deep grove ones. If I hit the wrong groove it was a pain and they are hard on the knees when you are working on the sled on/in the trailer.
I think I got them on a good deal at Shade Tree. They usually have a big discount early season.
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take it to buena vista and get a custom linings liner put into it...
this is the end of the second season for it and not one scratch in the liner...
Took 2 plastic bed liners (which custom linings gave us for free) and made ski guides for both front and rear doors......and we made "track lugs" out of the plastic as well by screwing them perpindicular on the doors wher the track needs that extra grip...
Total Cost for 27 foot trailer was in the neighborhood of $1600 for the liner (also included them spraying it up the sidewalls 6 inches )
this is the end of the second season for it and not one scratch in the liner...
Took 2 plastic bed liners (which custom linings gave us for free) and made ski guides for both front and rear doors......and we made "track lugs" out of the plastic as well by screwing them perpindicular on the doors wher the track needs that extra grip...
Total Cost for 27 foot trailer was in the neighborhood of $1600 for the liner (also included them spraying it up the sidewalls 6 inches )
I use horse stall mats. 5'x4'- 3/4" thick rubber. Carbides won't touch them. Nice thing is, I can remove one and the pop-up wheel chocks allow me to haul my Harley.
How much do horse stall mats cost?
I got them from my trailer sales buddy for $45 ea. You can check most feed stores or ranch supply places, they should have them.
I just use the lowpro wide glides on my floor, they also make it easier to pull a sled out the back w/o reverse.
http://snow.parts-unlimited.com/27/274/5367576
http://snow.parts-unlimited.com/27/274/5367576
