Does anyone have detailed instructions ,maybe with photo's that they can pass along to me for track removal ? I'm new to Arctic Cat's ,switching over from many years of riding Polaris ,thanks for the help.
Track removal on 2006 Crossfire 700
- Thread starter crossfire 7
- Start date
J
JHG
Well-known member
I'm not sure if these are totally correct because it's been forever since I took the track of of anything older than 07 but it should be close. It's really not that hard. Just take the nuts off around the diamond drive under the secondary clutch, then there is a bolt inside of the drive shaft on the brake side that needs to come out, I think it's a 5/8" and is pretty long. Then take the brake caliper off and there will be a nut threaded on the drive shaft. Use a screwdriver or chisel to remove the nut that's on the drive shaft. After it's off go back to the other side and pull the diamond drive out. You may have to get behind it with something an gently pry it out. After the DD is out, use a rubber mallet and knock the driveshaft and drivers out from the break side. Hope that helps.
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When you remove the diamond drive there is one nut behind a piece of rubber. Make sure you remove the rubber to get at this nut. Also on the brake caliper side if you do not want to deal with that big locknut you can take off the 6 or 7 seven bolts that hold the brake caliper on. They are on the inside of the tunnel by the track drivers. This will allow you to tip your drivers enough to get the track out.
This is the easiest way to do it. You might have to wrestle with the tack a bit to clear the tunnel on the dropped side, but can be done alone. I have done it a few time this way.
I have had a problem removing the break rotor before, so i dont even bother anymore
I would recomend removing the shaft and inspect the bearings on the brake caliper housing.
If its a double bearing like the 07's and up, they can easily trap moisyure between the bearings.
Mine came apart with moisture and after it sat overnight, the bearings rusted and seized up.
When I reassembled with new bearings, I packed the void between the bearings full of grease to eliminate moisture.
I tore it down this summer and the grease was still there, and no moisture!
Not to mention it came apart much easier.
The drive shaft can be rusted to the bearings and be a pita to remove, but good piece of mind to inspect the whole thing IMO.
If its a double bearing like the 07's and up, they can easily trap moisyure between the bearings.
Mine came apart with moisture and after it sat overnight, the bearings rusted and seized up.
When I reassembled with new bearings, I packed the void between the bearings full of grease to eliminate moisture.
I tore it down this summer and the grease was still there, and no moisture!
Not to mention it came apart much easier.
The drive shaft can be rusted to the bearings and be a pita to remove, but good piece of mind to inspect the whole thing IMO.
I've always wondered about the brake side bearings, and just sorta hoped they'd be ok...no one ever say's there a problem. Anyone know about the '05's?
I also just unbolt the whole brake side assembly from the tunnel and let it hang...pretty easy.
I've been filling the void between the two lower seals on the diamond drive with grease, to keep out water...works good so far. Mine has been dry everytime I service it.
John
I also just unbolt the whole brake side assembly from the tunnel and let it hang...pretty easy.
I've been filling the void between the two lower seals on the diamond drive with grease, to keep out water...works good so far. Mine has been dry everytime I service it.
John
S
snowmobiler
Well-known member
last summer i seen my 07 brake side ball bearings laying under the sled on the trailer.had about 1500 miles on sled.
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Thanks guy's for all your help and info,I'm putting on a new Intense 1.5" ,so all your help is much appreciated.
you don't even need to remove the diamond drive.
1.take the left side suspension bolts out.
2.tip the sled on its left side.
3.take the right side bolts out.
4.loosen the bolts that hold your rear bogie wheels on a little bit.
5.loosen the track tensioner bolts to give the track some slack.
6.pull the suspension out. at this point you can do a couple of things. either
buy or make a tool to grab the pigtail end of the rear suspension spring and take it off the spring adjuster block. or you can remove the blocks that the spring slides through down on the rails. this collapses the suspension and makes putting the suspension back in a snap.
7.remove the nut on the driveshaft.
8.remove the brake caliper assy.
9.pull the rotor off the shaft.
10.take the long bolt that is inside the center of the driveshaft out.
11.take the 5 bolts that hold the brake assy out.
12.lift the drive shaft up until it clears the diamond drive.
13.tilt it at an angle and drop it down and out of the sled.
14.remove your track.
15.install new track.
16.reverse the steps taken to remove the track to install the new one. when you get to putting in the suspension bolts, a second set of hands really helps. install and bolt the whole suspension in on its side. it is 10 times easier to move the shaft around and get the hole lined up when its on its side.
once you get the suspension in and everything bolted back down. you can set the sled back down on the track. hold the back of the sled up off the ground and make sure that the bottom of the rear shock doesn't rotate forward. you will get it all ready to go and the bottom of the shock will rub on the track. your suspension won't travel properly either.
no kidding, 2 guys, parts that aren't rusted and stuck together, 20 minutes.
1.take the left side suspension bolts out.
2.tip the sled on its left side.
3.take the right side bolts out.
4.loosen the bolts that hold your rear bogie wheels on a little bit.
5.loosen the track tensioner bolts to give the track some slack.
6.pull the suspension out. at this point you can do a couple of things. either
buy or make a tool to grab the pigtail end of the rear suspension spring and take it off the spring adjuster block. or you can remove the blocks that the spring slides through down on the rails. this collapses the suspension and makes putting the suspension back in a snap.
7.remove the nut on the driveshaft.
8.remove the brake caliper assy.
9.pull the rotor off the shaft.
10.take the long bolt that is inside the center of the driveshaft out.
11.take the 5 bolts that hold the brake assy out.
12.lift the drive shaft up until it clears the diamond drive.
13.tilt it at an angle and drop it down and out of the sled.
14.remove your track.
15.install new track.
16.reverse the steps taken to remove the track to install the new one. when you get to putting in the suspension bolts, a second set of hands really helps. install and bolt the whole suspension in on its side. it is 10 times easier to move the shaft around and get the hole lined up when its on its side.
once you get the suspension in and everything bolted back down. you can set the sled back down on the track. hold the back of the sled up off the ground and make sure that the bottom of the rear shock doesn't rotate forward. you will get it all ready to go and the bottom of the shock will rub on the track. your suspension won't travel properly either.
no kidding, 2 guys, parts that aren't rusted and stuck together, 20 minutes.
Yeah taking of the trackshaft nut can be a PITA if you dont have the tool for it(BDX makes one). Taking the dd off is easy and only takes a little bit longer.
i guess the reason that we do it that way is then you are using gravity to your advantage. when the sled is on its side, the weight of the track is not pulling down on the driveshaft. same thing with putting in the suspension bolts. you aren't lifting the weight of the suspension and trying to hold it there to get the holes lined up.
Trackshaft nut has always come off for me with a big flat screwdriver and a hammer. Couple of good wacks, and it comes loose. I also have the tool, but screwdriver/hammer is faster.
Any tips to get the double bearings in the brakehousing out?
Any tips to get the double bearings in the brakehousing out?
From what I remember, I supported the housing on 2 small blocks of wood, and drove the bearings out with a large socket and hammer.
S
snowmobiler
Well-known member
thats what i did./\.and some wd becuz it rusty in there.
just go for it
It seems quite intimidating at first,but like said above is pretty straight forward.My first time went well at about 3 hours. or a 5 beer job.Good luck.
It seems quite intimidating at first,but like said above is pretty straight forward.My first time went well at about 3 hours. or a 5 beer job.Good luck.
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