I don't know how y'all take the two halves of your primary apart but I had to use a press and put about 2300 lbs on two wedges to get it apart. (XP 800) Then when I put it back together I couldn't get the two Pieces to stick back together like they were when I took it off the output shaft. I tried to pres it back together and put 16,000lbs on it and it still just came back apart. Is it suposed to stick back together? I just put it back on and torqued the bolt down. I took it for a few spins around the yard and seems to be fine. I didn't have any weights in my pins by the way. I put made it so there were 16 grams and am going to go ride tomorrow. Hope that helps with my belt burning and clutch heat, and shifting problems.
TRA: take apart and put together?
- Thread starter Mr_Joshua101
- Start date
W
Wyoming T/A
ACCOUNT CLOSED
take the clutch off with a puller and leave the puller sticking out of the outside of the clutch and drop the clutch on puller on the concrete and it pops apart.seen it done several times very easy..
Use the press when taking it apart. The dealer doensn't drop it on the floor. At least the goods ones, thats a poors mans technique.
The easy way to take the 2 halves apart is to leave the puller threaded in after the clutch is off the sled...then just whack the head of the puller with a hammer while holding the movable sheave in the other hand, it comes off in 3-4 good whacks. To put together, just bolt it up, it is a taper fit just like the clutch/crank.
88.5 ft/lbs for the 08 XP's. Doo upped the torque spec. from last years REV.
FYI: If you are like me and want to verify this, your dealer should have a paper print service bulletin regarding this.
-John
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More stress to the thread hitting it with hammer than the concrete.
Steel is harder than concrete.
Steel is harder than concrete.
Heat
After having it apart, I was thinking that if you were to heat that center part of the steel hub (the riveted part) then just pound a rubber mallet between the sheaves. That would work wouldn't it? Or would the heat right there damage something? That way all you would have to do is just take the bolt out and you could leave the other part of the clutch on the sled. Could probably even leave the belt on. Let me know if I am wrong so someone don't try it and mess up there primary.
After having it apart, I was thinking that if you were to heat that center part of the steel hub (the riveted part) then just pound a rubber mallet between the sheaves. That would work wouldn't it? Or would the heat right there damage something? That way all you would have to do is just take the bolt out and you could leave the other part of the clutch on the sled. Could probably even leave the belt on. Let me know if I am wrong so someone don't try it and mess up there primary.
Just leave the puller in the clutch like everybody said and turn it over and whack it on an anvil or concrete floor I would hate to put that much stress on those sheaves especially when you could tweak something with that much pressure.
After taking it apart the first time, yes the clutch slides apart and there is no reason to pull the clutch every time. Take your clutch bolt out and slide the outer half off. When you put it back together make sure the notches are lined up with one another.
That wont work on the 08 models Im told.
08 is a taper fit not splined...
Yep you got it. Hold the sliding half in your hand and strike the puller with a hammer to separate the clutch.
Yep you got it. Hold the sliding half in your hand and strike the puller with a hammer to separate the clutch.
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