Torn Throttle Body Boots??
- Thread starter RidnHigh
- Start date
M
miller tools
Well-known member
boots
Just take a propane torch and turn on the gas dont light it and stick down around the boots the engine will rev then you will know if there bad.I have found leaks this way that carb and ether would not.
Just take a propane torch and turn on the gas dont light it and stick down around the boots the engine will rev then you will know if there bad.I have found leaks this way that carb and ether would not.
Mine had high idle. Did not get more boost when I turned up the knob. Spark plugs weren't the same color. (only one side was torn).
T
theshadowrider
Well-known member
Dido. Egts where off and egts climbed after letting off the throttle for a split second.
With what you stated about your sleds symptoms in the chipped reed thread, I can almost guarantee you have a torn throttle body boot. That is exactly what mine was doing and then developed a high idle. Pulled it out and had about a 2" cut and then a 1" cut on the same cylinder. If you have a reinforcement plate on there, you probably need to file down and soften the edges. Seems to be one of the most common problems on boosted sleds
Your best bet if there ripped is buy a set of the machined ones from http://turboboyz.com/store/catalog/index.php?cPath=263
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This is what it looks like
The sled runs "OK" but It wont build boost past 6 lbs.
This was ripped bad
Couldn't tell till I took it off
The sled runs "OK" but It wont build boost past 6 lbs.
This was ripped bad
Couldn't tell till I took it off
Boondocker makes a nifty lazer cut reinforcment plate that sandwiches the rubber between it and the alm. backer. $ 39.00 have them on my d7 & d8.
E
EricW
Well-known member
You might try using the slick boost leak test kit that some intelligent, handsome, and kind dude loaned ya about a year or so ago. Install the block-offs, add some shop air, and crack the throttle, if its torn you'll hear and feel it no doubt.
If it's not idling high I bet thats not it. Good luck. Guy with boost leak kit. lol.
got billet throttle body boots.....never an issue again!!
Don't wate your money on that reinforcing plate it dont work for _ _ _ _ im telling you from experence it almost cost me my 20,000 dollar sled the machined billet boots are the only way to go if your running boost!
Yes the billet is nice. At least if you break a mounting bolt on the billet ones the box or TB's blow off and you know it right away. Instead of running it until you figure out your boot is torn or your motor is damaged. And it's quick to bolt it back together too.
R
RidnHigh
Well-known member
I already have this piece, I am not a fan of it, as you are clamping down the aluminum piece to rubber so naturally the rubber gives and compresses where the bolts are and it warps the aluminum flange that you jsut bought...take yours off and look at them I bet you have a small leak on the top and bottom of both throttle bodies because each bolt on either side of the intake is cranked down adn it bows the rubber and flange outward..
I know this man you speak of and yes i have tested everythign, i have used that kit probably fifty times haha
I agree, although i dont think the machined billet is the way to go either imho...i think the motor moves too much and somewher in that system you have to be able to have flex...a hundred bucks every 800 miles or so i think isnt too much of a price to pay for maintenance..
Torn Throttle Body Boots
Here's my theory. Stock, the throttle bodies are rubber mounted from the cylinders and the stock air box that is mounted above the jack shaft of most sleds. When you mount a turbo airbox to the throttle bodies and only have the rubber boots to the cylinders, those boots are holding a lot of weight and therefore more flex, eventually splitting. The aluminum boots mount everything solid and you will break the bolts or tear the ears off the aluminum boots. I have done all of these. I moved my air box on top of the drive shaft and connected it to the throttle bodies via two 3" long rubber tubes that are made to take vibration. This has worked for me. See pic.
Here's my theory. Stock, the throttle bodies are rubber mounted from the cylinders and the stock air box that is mounted above the jack shaft of most sleds. When you mount a turbo airbox to the throttle bodies and only have the rubber boots to the cylinders, those boots are holding a lot of weight and therefore more flex, eventually splitting. The aluminum boots mount everything solid and you will break the bolts or tear the ears off the aluminum boots. I have done all of these. I moved my air box on top of the drive shaft and connected it to the throttle bodies via two 3" long rubber tubes that are made to take vibration. This has worked for me. See pic.
See I dont have my air box mounted solid so it can move with the motor and it is not a problem, as for the billet throttle boots and airbox i would venture to say that you could pressurize that set up to 50 plus pounds and it still wont leak or come a part!
