I am trying to lighten my load on all the extra tools I carry with me in a tunnel bag, does anyone have on hand the most common sizes of tools needed.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Tool Kit.
- Thread starter ktm131rob
- Start date
Ironically I looked at this kit and it kinda jump started my idea but I saw the image and the price tag and didn't dig into it any further lol. I have enough random stuff to put something together it may be a half pound heavier but it will work. I should be able to whip something up with this list.
Thanks
Thanks
a couple crescent wrenches and a channel lock pliers. not ideal but can work on a variety of stuff in a pinch.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A few pounds typically cost a few hundred to lose
So unfortunately I cant build my dream sled with this one (a super lightweight turbo money eating monster) where all that stuff all adds up to huge gains. But I wanted to move a lot of the weight I have been caring around. The only thing that lightweight about that kit is the wrenches and I can honestly say the weight inst getting me up the hill any higher or making the sled feel any lighter. I will just stay in the gym and eat one less cheeseburger along the way.
Made my kit this evening mostly generic Craftsman items. total weight...3.3 pounds...cost maybe 30 bucks in tools.
S
Sleddin4Life
Member
Below is a list of tools that I have found are useful on the AXYS Chassis as well as what their common uses are. I don't think the Pro chassis is much different. You may choose not to carry some or all of these. Some folks don't carry anything which is their choice and not for me to judge. These tools/parts weigh about 5 lbs and will likely help myself or a fellow riding buddy stay on the mountain to enjoy a killer powder day at least once this season. It you choose not to carry them, it's a good idea to at least have them at the truck/trailer imo.
Wrenches
8 mm - suspension bumpers
10 mm - seat posts/bumpers/misc.
11 mm - sidekick turbo exhaust (may need removed to change drive belt)
13 mm - suspension/shocks
14 mm - break reservoir
15 mm - suspension/secondary clutch/skis/shocks/quick drive
16 mm - track adjustment/skis
17 mm - suspension mounts
21 mm - primary clutch (I don't carry this. I use a crescent if needed.)
3/8" - primary clutch/clutch weights
1/2" - sidekick turbo
Allen Wrenches
4 mm - handlebar mounts
1/8" - clutch weights
3/32" - belt deflection
5/32" bar hooks
Misc Tools
Crescent Wrench
Leatherman
Small Magnet
Wire
Zip Ties
Exhaust Springs (x2)
Relays (x2)
Hope this helps.
Wrenches
8 mm - suspension bumpers
10 mm - seat posts/bumpers/misc.
11 mm - sidekick turbo exhaust (may need removed to change drive belt)
13 mm - suspension/shocks
14 mm - break reservoir
15 mm - suspension/secondary clutch/skis/shocks/quick drive
16 mm - track adjustment/skis
17 mm - suspension mounts
21 mm - primary clutch (I don't carry this. I use a crescent if needed.)
3/8" - primary clutch/clutch weights
1/2" - sidekick turbo
Allen Wrenches
4 mm - handlebar mounts
1/8" - clutch weights
3/32" - belt deflection
5/32" bar hooks
Misc Tools
Crescent Wrench
Leatherman
Small Magnet
Wire
Zip Ties
Exhaust Springs (x2)
Relays (x2)
Hope this helps.
V
volcano buster
Well-known member
I also carry a cheap HF exhaust spring puller.
X
xr650r
Member
tools
Sooo! I think you have a very good start on your tools but I believe you should add a few more . To that list I would add 1/2, 9/16 and you need 2 of each and same with your metric so you can hold both side of a bolt. wrenches should be box end with open end! Then i wrap duct tape around my philips screw driver as close to the handle as I can till it's about 1 and 1/4 inch diameter that way you carry alot because of the small diameter it starts out at instead of the regular roll you buy. Also spring hook which I made using an old phillips screw driver but you have to know how to bend it to make it work right and have a torch to do it, I don't like a lot of the one's you can buy. hose clamps ,electric tape, safety wire and regular wire , a few of the more common 1/4 and 3/8 bolts and nuts along with the metrics sizes they are using now.Also some washer's and both regular and fender size! I use a bank money bag to hold the parts and old polaris tool roll for the tools. please take out of sled and let dry after each ride. If the weight is and issue for you just think about not being able to fix something and ruining your or friends ride because you can't fix it . One other thing with what you have and maybe what you buddies have for tools you can fix about anything. Happy Sledding!
Sooo! I think you have a very good start on your tools but I believe you should add a few more . To that list I would add 1/2, 9/16 and you need 2 of each and same with your metric so you can hold both side of a bolt. wrenches should be box end with open end! Then i wrap duct tape around my philips screw driver as close to the handle as I can till it's about 1 and 1/4 inch diameter that way you carry alot because of the small diameter it starts out at instead of the regular roll you buy. Also spring hook which I made using an old phillips screw driver but you have to know how to bend it to make it work right and have a torch to do it, I don't like a lot of the one's you can buy. hose clamps ,electric tape, safety wire and regular wire , a few of the more common 1/4 and 3/8 bolts and nuts along with the metrics sizes they are using now.Also some washer's and both regular and fender size! I use a bank money bag to hold the parts and old polaris tool roll for the tools. please take out of sled and let dry after each ride. If the weight is and issue for you just think about not being able to fix something and ruining your or friends ride because you can't fix it . One other thing with what you have and maybe what you buddies have for tools you can fix about anything. Happy Sledding!
I always run with pounds equal pain.... But I agree and due usually carry a lot of tools and survival equipment with me as I believe it is a requirement not just a good thing to do if you ride aggressive terrain in the back country. I got a new tunnel bag and i wanted to lighten my load up and also make sure I had everything I needed. For example I have a friend who literately carries a whole small craftsman socket set with him.... to use 4 sockets? see where I was headed with this? I sued the Burandt kit as an example or a goal for 2 reasons 1) dude is arguably the best guide/back country rider on the planet and 2) sells the most expensive parts and gear that you can get your hands on. Kind of a little mini project.
Man I can't talk enough about Bailing wire.
Just last Thursday out riding and my buddy's screw that holds the hifax in place sheared. We notched the hifax with a knife, laid the bailing wire in the notch and wrapped to the rails, used a leatherman to tighten it and rode for another 3 hours.
Just last Thursday out riding and my buddy's screw that holds the hifax in place sheared. We notched the hifax with a knife, laid the bailing wire in the notch and wrapped to the rails, used a leatherman to tighten it and rode for another 3 hours.
X
xr650r
Member
tools
Thats the tools I run in my 2017 AXYS ,I run total different in my 500 KTM snowbike 2018. Also like the last post a lot of Mcguyver in you can make a difference! I noticed in an old post about snowbike oil and not starting in the cold, you would be wise to use the new Timbre sled 0-40 oil for the winter and then change back to the motorex 15-50 on summer. Also I have not seen it ever posted but when starting in cold even like my RZR or 4 wheeler or any fuel injected erngine turn it on till you hear it run fuel pump then turn off and on again and you hear it run the fuel pump again, that resets the choke so that it choke's it 2 times instead of once and you will see it start way better. Also if using lithiom battery try to start just for like 10 seconds or so and then turn off and let batt warm up from you trying to start it . Then do again and the battery will have more cranking in it from heating up!
Thats the tools I run in my 2017 AXYS ,I run total different in my 500 KTM snowbike 2018. Also like the last post a lot of Mcguyver in you can make a difference! I noticed in an old post about snowbike oil and not starting in the cold, you would be wise to use the new Timbre sled 0-40 oil for the winter and then change back to the motorex 15-50 on summer. Also I have not seen it ever posted but when starting in cold even like my RZR or 4 wheeler or any fuel injected erngine turn it on till you hear it run fuel pump then turn off and on again and you hear it run the fuel pump again, that resets the choke so that it choke's it 2 times instead of once and you will see it start way better. Also if using lithiom battery try to start just for like 10 seconds or so and then turn off and let batt warm up from you trying to start it . Then do again and the battery will have more cranking in it from heating up!
A hammer and a multimeter.
Cause if you can’t fix it with a hammer, it’s probably electrical.
Cause if you can’t fix it with a hammer, it’s probably electrical.
