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Too lean up the trail?

J

jaxondean

New member
I have a 2010 Twisted RG M8, running 9lbs w/ attitude box. Have several questions that I would throw on here.
#'s are:
g: 1.5
y:1.5
red: off
g/b:5.5
y/b:5.5
r/b: 7.5

fuel presure 40lbs at idle and raises appropriatly when boosting.

Question 1: When I'm running down the trail to the hill I am always lean - 15.5+ , having to continually blip the throttle to keep it around 14 or less.
If I take my grean and raise it to 6+ it will generally bring a/f back to around 12.5-13.5. Logic tells one to leave settings there, but then it is a dog when I go to hammer it. Kind of a pain to always be stopping and changing settings - doable but a pain. Even settings of 3.5 will not ritchen it up enough. Do other people have a simular situation going on, and should I be worried about driving 10-20 miles at 15+ a/f?

Question 2: I have done exstensive searching on Attitude set numbers, and have seen conflicting thoughts about what the yellow blue does. Some forums say that it controls the secondary injectors, and if you look back as far as 2009 posts by Shain he says that y/b isnt used in the M8. Now I realize that is a long time ago and things change, but I would love clarity.
Question 3: I have been getting frustrated with the tuning of the sled. It rolls off idle really well, builds boost to 5-6 lbs then bogs and goes lean. Any tuning tips?
 
Call shain and get the proper numbers for your box.

The only tuning that you do is for WOT with the green/blue, which is
boost fueling.

You should never run a sled at mid to 3/4 range for any extended period.
No matter what kit you have.

You will show lean at that mid range.

If you call shain and get the numbers, and the system does not
function he will make it right, and very quickly.

You should only have to set the box one time a day depending on elevation change. I ride within a 2500' elevation change and tune from 10k to 10,750
and 10,750-12,500 only 1/2 point of fuel between the two.


My box doesn't have y/b

Mine is an 09, So no number advice from me.
 
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my info is on a stock etec with a a/f gauge

we see from 16 to 20-1 running the trail, and in wot it will drop to 13 to 1

now for my turbo etec i see the same but the trail it will even hit a high of 22 to 1, but over all average of 18 to 1 on trails, as soon as we hit wot, comes down to 13 to 1

witha 1000 miles boosted there has not been any issues, and their is lots of stock etecs with much more miles on and no issues

as for my dobec fuel controller i run the first three at 0 and the next three at 2
 
I'm not sure if the red circuit works the same on the attitude as on my pure logic box. Kinda looks like it might be.

I use the red for "fast cruise" and the transition to boost. My red number is pretty low (1/2 or 1) cause I dont want much extra fuel. My red blue is also pretty low because I want the red to come in sooner (lighter load). This seems to work for me on the PL, it would be cool if it helps your situation.
 
at 9lbs my M8 loves 12.0-12.2 AF....understand i say "my sled" not all are the same, ive found that a richer AF at 8-11lbs seems to run a chit ton better then 12.5 AF

what elevation?
 
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Thats what i ended up doing as well Tony. Keep the yellow and green a bit leaner, and bring a little red in to help keep the mid a bit "safer". It doesnt take much at all, then do all your final fueling on green/blue. Attitude box on a pump gas setup.
 
The issue with a cat is timing at cruise. When you run between 5000rpm - 6400 rpm timing goes to a fix 24deg. I do not want to start an argument with everyone here so do this. Set your attitude settings and run down trail at 4800rpm and you will find it is ok run it to a steady 5400rpm and watch it lean out. Two solutions vary your speed on trail or run at a slower trail speed of 4800rpm. The other issue if you start at low elevation say 3000ft and start climbing to your riding area of 6500ft every 1500 feet of elevation shut sled off for 3 seconds and restart. The pressure transducer or (barometric sensor) will set to that elevation and correct fuel mixture. It is opposite when coming back down in elevation and will fatten as you drop in elevation. hope this helps I ride a tm1000 with an attitude box and never toch box unless I lower the boost and I ride at a consistent 20-23psi
 
thanks all for your help so far

hatch - most of our riding is from 2500 at trail head to 7500 at mountain tops.

pony - I currently do turn off when going up often to help it recalibrate. on the way down I often leave it run the whole way back down the trail cause then my numbers are very nice.

Good to know though what a stockers a/f is, makes me not so paranoid about running a little lean on the trail.

Heading out in a few days so I will print this whole forum and drag it out to help with changes.

I may try to play with the red a little.
 
I also agree, play with the red more for trail riding till your sled bogs then take it back a notch or so until the numbers straighten out. Always good to vary the throttle, even the stock sleds seem to heat up in the mid bad. Until proven stand alone systems are released really the boxes just help bandaid the stock fuel settings as best they can. I would suggest to follow plug readings and piston wash but on the cats it's horrible to access and view on the trail quickly. I like to check the pipe sensor for reference since it's better than nothing. I personally always prefer to go rich and work my way back, I haven't lean melted a motor yet in all my tuning and I credit it to this rule I stand by. Plus, always trust your gauges unless you can confirm with plug readings. A/F gauges fail lean as a safety measure. EGT's read hot on excessive rich conditions that your plugs will show.
 
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