Toasted another Primary Roller!!!!!!!!!!!

[Ausm7499]

Sled: 08M1K

Well went riding last weekend and after a few miles of 80+mph back to the pickup I noticed that my primary would not disengauge. After pulling the cover I found it was bound because a roller on my new (maybe 500 miles) Supreme Tool Spyder had siezed up. I do not blame this on the Supreme tool Syder because the only reason I bought the Supreme tool spyder was because I toasted a roller in my stock spyder and needed a replacement. Unfortunatley it also messed up one of my new Dalton adjustables.

What would be causing these rollers to sieze up? There is no reason to go through two rollers in under 1000 miles. I have major heat issues with my clutching and have since new. I am starting to feel like this sled is getting the best of me and thoughts have crossed my mind about selling it. Please help me resolve these issue I am getting very desperate.

On a positive note I contacted Supreme Tool to order some new rollers and they very generously covered the replacement rollers under warranty. I wish I had the money to buy their billet primary and secondary and chit can this Arctic Crap.

So any ideas?

 

[Killerk]

From my experience it is a cocked weight that takes out the roller, not the other way around.

 

[Ausm7499]

not the case cause the first roller went out when I was using my stock AC weights. This second roller went out with my brand new dalton adjustables and i didn't have any set screws in them.

 

[KMMAC]

Maybe check the valley that the rollers slide in. Two different spyders same problem. Clutch may be warped? Have you geared down? If not,not sure if this problem will go away. Also, have you tried with no spring to slide the new spyder in and out of the clutch hub to see if it is binding?

 

[Ausm7499]

Have not regeared but I know people that have regeard and still have lots of clutch heat. I have sled the clutch back and forth to make sure nothing is binding. I have also flipped the weigths back and forth and nothing is binding there.

Would a clutch that is out of balance cause these issues?

 

[CATSLEDMAN1]

clutch weight blues

When you get a clutch that wants to eat a roller..........sometimes it seems there is no cure.

I think its almost always a vibration issue. old nine tower clutch worse than the 6 tower clutch's.........why, I am told the stiff as a XXXXX 9 tower movable face of the 9 tower sets up to many sympathetic vibrations that want to eat clutch bushings then clutch weights then the roller.......if not all three at once. Last trip to recycling about a dozen 9 tower remainns left my garage, all clutch's that prematurely ate themselves and we couldn't really find a cure, they all looked good but after 5 or 6 years of sitting around they went to aluminum scrap.

If you can.......have the clutch checked for balance and make sure it all went together lined up. Bent or un straight tower to spyder threads.......I've put several vibrating clutch's in a lathe, when turned and checked with dial indicator, the spyder is not threaded on straight because the way the orignal threads were turned on the fixed sheave , so clutch is junk. Some times the taper in the clutch or the taper on the end of the crank is not good.........every once a while you take the clutch off, turn it 90 degrees or what ever and it spins truer and vibrates less. A very thorough check of the clutch with a dial indicator while on the engine..........very likely you will find the uneven spyder / or clutch face / or end cap or crank taper or just crank is out / caput/ faulty.

the reason some clutch's on one sled go 4000 miles with no roller problems and another sled goes 500 miles is vibration caused by ??? got to find the cluprit. and very likely a manufacturing error.

 

[9071000]

mine did the same thing.roller wore out then the weight.

 

[KMMAC]

So, catsledman1, what would you recommend for a clutch, excepting the fact that the taper, run out is good on the engine? Can and who balances clutches? I always liked the 6 bolt better they for some reason seemed to be balanced better. Too bad you can't order a sled without clutches, get the full discount of what those clutches cost and then go buy after market. Know it wouldn't cover the whole cost of the better parts but sure would be nice knowing that with those parts you would have a little piece of mind of them not failing.

 

[BigRed118]

I haev seen another post or two on hear about the Dalton weights. Somebody was saying that they do eat rollers. You might do a search. I want to say it was either Mr Quick or Geo

 

[bgreen776]

Add another one to the list. A perfectly good primary with a failed roller and no available repair parts!

 

[Team Pigeon]

It's not that they don't have parts, it's that they don't advertise it.

This kit below measured out to be the correct parts for a rebuild on my 08 M1000.

Arctic Cat Part Number: 1639-029
Description: KIT, SPIDER REBUILD - 99 DR CLUTCH
Quantity: 1
Each: $119.29 (Canadian Dollars)

My Cutler weight munched one of my rollers the other week due to a broken weight bolt. Broke her right in half. My new dealer just happened to have one kit in back collecting dust. And when I mean measure, I mean it within .001"

And if you want, buy some new weight bolts and new weight bolt bushings.
Found them in the M7 fiche...

0646-372 BEARING,CAM ARM PIN (05DP08) $3.09 x6
(you will need a proper punch to set the bushing in the right spot, FYI)

0646-747 PIN, CAM ARM $11.95 x3
(but there is a full kit for these- bolts, washers, nuts somewhere in the fiche, can't find it)

Before you start anything, put those new pins on ice to shrink them.

Pull the buttons very carefully, I don't have a part number for them yet so if you wreck them, you're SOL. Take note which side and which spider arm the button comes from as they don't wear very evenly. Apply heat to the pin area as those pins are an interference fit. Use the appropriate sockets to push the pin out--- 1 size smaller than a new pin on the pushing side, 1 size bigger on the back end. Just like pressing u-joints. Use SOFT JAWS in your vice. When installing, put a SMALL chamfer on the spider arm pin hole with a wood working chamfer. Apply heat to the spider, about 100deg (when your spit boils off the heated area, it's about right) (and that's 100 canadian degrees). Make sure the pin is aligned and goes in STRAIGHT right away



ALSO been told the M7 spider is the same....
0746-115 SPIDER-ASSY-MACH $226.79