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Flatlander44
Member
Is there any tools that really help with engine removal? Or any tips? Thanks
To the real mechanics out there
- Thread starter Flatlander44
- Start date
Long extensions and wobble sockets.
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Flatlander44
Member
That's what I'm looking for. Little things like that just to make it a little quicker. I would like to cut the time down to about 45 minutes. ...use a medium length 13mm with a swivel here, or wobble Allen socket there. BFH here or torch and plasma cutter there. Ok, maybe not that extreme. Basically, what are your favorite tools.
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Flatlander44
Member
Electric impact is a must!
Drill four holes in the bottom (in line with the four engine strap bolts and a size that is pluggable with electrical box knockout plugs or rubber grommet style plugs) to access the engine strap bolts and then you do not have to monkey with all the others. The main four and the torque arm bolt and fuel, electrical, intake and exhaust. Can be done in far less than an hour, without air / electric impact tools. It is far easier to re-align the engine this way as well. As all the engine mounts are in their natural neutral state.
Most people just F stuff up with an impact anyway. If you really care about quality work and proper fit up and torque, you won't use them either. Just my 2 cents.
Most people just F stuff up with an impact anyway. If you really care about quality work and proper fit up and torque, you won't use them either. Just my 2 cents.
i guess if you dont know how to use am impact you shouldnt really call yourself a mechanic. just my 2 cents
I have been making my living as a industrial Mechanic / Welder / Machinist for 30 plus years, and I know how to use one and when they are appropriate.
They are great for stubborn disassembly tasks, but everything should be clean and lubricated going back together and should install with your fingers and a final torque, so no impact is needed.
I'm not your flat rate, minimum wage, dealer certified parts changer. FWIW
Way to ruin a helpful post for the OP
I couldn't agree more nor could any precision mechanic
So just to be clear.......You wont use an impact but you DO drill four 1"+ size holes into the bulkhead?
If you did that to my sled you would be putting a new bulkhead in it.
Just my 2 cents. Eric
It's not the bulkhead he suggested drilling the holes in. It's a thin piece of aluminum held in place by 10 rivets. It's just a cover and has no structural integrity.
Its sounds like a great idea as I removed the ten rivets and then had to re ribbit them back in place. 4 holes would be way faster.
Anyway, he's not working on your sled, he's working on his own so there is no need to get yer blood pressure up.
Its sounds like a great idea as I removed the ten rivets and then had to re ribbit them back in place. 4 holes would be way faster.
Anyway, he's not working on your sled, he's working on his own so there is no need to get yer blood pressure up.
The 4 holes only have to be big enough for the 3/8" extension (so 1/2" if your alignment is correct). As you can put the socket on after you get the extension thru. If you want it big enough for both the socket and the Hex Flanged bolt to be removed without fumbling around under the engine 7/8" is the size to go with.
This has been a recommended practice from FasTrax since they built the '10 Rush into the first RMK and developed their billet engine plate (YouTube the video if in doubt). Anyway two of them go thru the trailing edge of the bulkhead and the floor pan and two of them just go thru the floorpan. Regardless you're loosing little to no structural integrity by doing so. You can do it without the holes too. You just have to bend up some custom wrenches to reach them.
And yes I only build my own sleds so you needn't worry. Not that you are anywhere near Alaska anyways.
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mike_s
Well-known member
Power tools are great for rapid dissassembly, but do not belong in the reassembly arena. You never know how much torque was applied when youre done. Ever wonder why Les Schwab has so much trouble with wheels falling off? None of their "mechanics" own a torque wrench...LOL!
The older I get the more I find this to be a true statement. Wiz wheels are just as bad. Had a old machinist tell me that after using these on a machined surface, it is no longer a machined surface. Mine is only used for prep work on welding steel now. Fred
Not needed on the 13-15 models.
As for helpful suggestions, a good set of metric hex sockets, a set of Torx bit sockets (get a couple of extra T40s).
Looking back, I wished I had removed/left off the Y-pipe before removing/putting the engine back in the chassis. I got it in/out with it on, but it would have been much easier with it off. Pull the injectors out so you don't ruin the fuel lines, don't lose the green seals off the end of the injectors. Wiring is easy as it's idiot proof, no two connectors are the same for the engine stuff.
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