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Tips on Restoring a Snowbike to a Motorcycle

Frostbite

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Yes, it's a bit early in the season to be asking this but, after having a drive shaft bearing catastrophically fail in the mountains and tear stuff up on the way out of the mountains, I did my best to try to evaluate the rest of the bearings on my Mountain Horse but it's really hard to tell how much life is left in a bearing before failure. I bought the used bike and Mountain Horse kit together from the previous owner andI have no idea how long the bearings have been in service or how long they will last. Replacing one bearing, when I have lost confidence in the reliability of ALL the bearings leaves me a bit uneasy.

Faced with that uncertainty and the fact and since I have already ordered the new double row bearing update kit for ALL the bearings from Timbersled, I think it's time to pull the Mountain Horse off the KTM and wait for the new bearings and housings for next season. I will ride my M8 the rest of the year.

So, with the KTM and Mountain Horse kit, I got a box of spare parts. I have never been a dirt bike guy and I did not, nor have I ever put a Mountain Horse kit on a motorcycle but, I am dying to try the KTM 530XC-W as a bike and I am looking for tips on converting the snowbike back into a motorcycle. I will also be checking the Timbersled Mountain Horse kit installation guide for tips.

Any words of caution?

Where do you start? With the front wheel replacing the ski?

Do you put the snowbike on a stand under the bike engine first?

Do you grease anything as you put the swing arm back on?

I'm sure there is some brake bleeding to be done?

Any guidance you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
 
If you don't discover any breakage, the swap is pretty quick. I'd do a complete tear down, order parts, then get back on the snow! An m8 is a heavy pig with too many skis. I sold mine because I'd rather wait on snow bike parts than ride a sled.

Over almost two years I've replaced about 30% of the parts, and switched motorcycles five times.

edit to add: napa bearings are safe for twenty rides. Get back on the snow!
 
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Yes, it's a bit early in the season to be asking this but, after having a drive shaft bearing catastrophically fail in the mountains and tear stuff up on the way out of the mountains, I did my best to try to evaluate the rest of the bearings on my Mountain Horse but it's really hard to tell how much life is left in a bearing before failure. I bought the used bike and Mountain Horse kit together from the previous owner andI have no idea how long the bearings have been in service or how long they will last. Replacing one bearing, when I have lost confidence in the reliability of ALL the bearings leaves me a bit uneasy.

Faced with that uncertainty and the fact and since I have already ordered the new double row bearing update kit for ALL the bearings from Timbersled, I think it's time to pull the Mountain Horse off the KTM and wait for the new bearings and housings for next season. I will ride my M8 the rest of the year.

So, with the KTM and Mountain Horse kit, I got a box of spare parts. I have never been a dirt bike guy and I did not, nor have I ever put a Mountain Horse kit on a motorcycle but, I am dying to try the KTM 530XC-W as a bike and I am looking for tips on converting the snowbike back into a motorcycle. I will also be checking the Timbersled Mountain Horse kit installation guide for tips.

Any words of caution?

Where do you start? With the front wheel replacing the ski?

Do you put the snowbike on a stand under the bike engine first?

Do you grease anything as you put the swing arm back on?

I'm sure there is some brake bleeding to be done?

Any guidance you could provide would be greatly appreciated.

hopefully you got some service manuals with the ktm,they have parts break down pages in them and service procedures.If not go online to any ktm parts dealer and they will have parts pictures.
put your bike on a stand and start on the front ski removal should be pretty straight forward.reinstall front brake caliper on the left fork and hook up brake line if removed from front brake master cylinder,install from wheel and axle and torque to spec leave axle pinch bolts loose until you get rear wheel back on.

For the rear remove strut rod from shock mounting flange on frame ,remove drive chain,remove brake line from either rear master cylinder or front brake master,remove rear swing arm nut and bolt this will free up complete MH ***. remove by pulling straight back make sure to keep spacers in order. Grease swing arm bearings with proper grease and swing arm bushings installed.Align swing arm with frame and engine mounting holes where swing arm bolt goes thru and install bolt and torque to spec.Install shock and secure.install rear brake line from caliper to rear master cylinder if removed.
Install rear wheel and axle leave loose,then install chain ***.and adj. chain tension to spec.
Bleed rear brake if necessary .remove bike from stand,and with front brake engaged push down on handle bars to move forks up and down then put bike back on stand and secure front axle pinch bolts.
the hardest part of this if you were given a box of parts is to figure out where they all go and bleeding the brakes [a vacuum bleeder] helps a lot .
If all else fails bring it to me and i will take care of it and the bearing replacement for a nominal fee of course
 
Thanks HBMTR!

That is exactly what I needed! I will follow your guidelines.

I keep trying to upload a picture of the extra parts I found in the box but, for some reason the picture will not load. Hum?

I will keep trying.
 
Thanks HBMTR!

That is exactly what I needed! I will follow your guidelines.

I keep trying to upload a picture of the extra parts I found in the box but, for some reason the picture will not load. Hum?

I will keep trying.

go ahead and pm me with pics.I am very familiar with ktm parts and nuts and bolts. :face-icon-small-coo
 
I am with Rush 30 Bucks in bearings and 2 hours in the shop to replace them will have you good to go for the rest of the season. Put the kitty on craigs list --it is for old men or the non initiated:face-icon-small-hap

Its not the bike its the rider.Must super cold up North:face-icon-small-coo:face-icon-small-coo
 
Don't swap yet! The best part of the season is just beginning! Once the transition from heavy/wet snow is over, about the next 2 weeks, it firm's up and becomes like summer riding with no boundaries!, "trails", and is 60 degrees and sunshine until mid June. Our season is pretty crazy when you break it down. Start late November early December? logs, rocks, brush getting covered, then once 100+ inches of snow settle in, we get access to everything until mid June! That's 7 months! lol pretty awesome. :)
 
I feel like if I change one bearing, I should really change all of them, because they have probably been on the bike for the same period of time.

I have the double row housings and bearing on order (won't see them until next fall) but it just seems crazy to change them now for a couple rides.

Now, if I had a couple local snowbike riding buds that were chomping at the bit to ride, that perception could change quickly.
 
I feel like if I change one bearing, I should really change all of them, because they have probably been on the bike for the same period of time.

I have the double row housings and bearing on order (won't see them until next fall) but it just seems crazy to change them now for a couple rides.

Now, if I had a couple local snowbike riding buds that were chomping at the bit to ride, that perception could change quickly.
I would change all the bearings. Small insurance. I wouldn't swap the track out for the tires till May or June. There is some guys in Cle Elum that ride. There is a group on facebook call Pacific Northwest Snowbikers. Check it out
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1416890411889690/
 
I am thinking I need to start a Spokane / Coeur d' Alene Snowbikers page on Facebook. If I could just figure out how to do it!

There are a lot of nice places to ride about 1-2 hours away, I would like to concentrate my efforts more locally until I get a little better on the bike in the snow.
 
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C'mon. 2 and a half hours. We drive 15 hours to ride. Take the drive and meet the nicest group of riders and you will never ride alone again. Get that kit fixed! Have some buds over for some beers and it's done.
 
I'm still up for riding! Just got busy this weekend, but heard about some guys going yesterday to Priest, looked like a nice ride. Also got a pm from another guy in Post Falls last week. Don't give up on the season yet, should be plenty of good days left.
 
OK.... I started a Spokane / Coeur d'Alene Snowbikers page on facebook.

Now, I just need to figure out how to finish the process. It will be done!

Niskibum, thanks.
 
If changing out 4 bearings that cost between $7 and $15 each that might take a total of 2hrs if you don't know what your doing is holding you back from riding snow for the next 2 months, you might have other issues to address.

It's been said, we are about to to get to the best part of the year. For me, snow vs dirt. Snow always wins hands down no contest at all.

Your bike on dirt is going to leave you with bumps and bruises you'd never get on snow.
 
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If changing out 4 bearings that cost between $7 and $15 that might take a total of 2hrs if you don't know what your doing is holding you back from riding snow for the next 2 months, you might have other issues to address.

It's been said, we are about to to get to the best part of the year. For me, snow vs dirt. Snow always wins hands down no contest at all.

Your bike on dirt is going to leave you with bumps and bruises you'd never get on snow.
+1. Get a dedicated dirt bike. In Washington I like to ride the Snowbike Oct-July and dirtmobile year-round.
 
I'll be selling my bike here shortly. Just started smelling a bit of oil in the exhaust and I had to top it up after a days ride. I don't care what anyone says these tracks are harder on a bike! I'll be getting a new one every season by the looks of it.
 
If you like the bike and have it set up well, why not just do the top end? Have you done a leak down test? How many hours on the bike and of those, how many snow vs. dirt? Most aren't seeing snowbiking being any "harder" on the bike. More rpms but also no dust.

Don't want to hijack this thread though so back to the original topic.
I agree with others. Make your fix and get back out there this season!
 
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