Just wondering about the actual benifits of the bd timing key and running more boost, I have a 2012 pro with a silber kit and the bd timing key, I was running 12 psi at 6000 on av gas. If you loose power with the retarded timing your gains from the extra two pounds of boost are probably minimal right? I'm just wondering if it would be better for me to take the key out and turn down my boost to 10 because less boost is supposed to be easier on the motor isn't it? Any input would be appreciated
Timing key vs boost?
- Thread starter Bigcheese_20
- Start date
I've asked this a few times and gotten the answer of "well I can run more boost without DET". Since you have the key, try it. If your clutched to pull 8250 at 12 lbs, make a pull to confirm all is well, pull the timing key and turn down your boost a scoche, and make another pull. If your rpm's are higher then your making a little more power, lower and your making less power.
Totally would but I'm waiting on parts for my sled right now. Gonna be going to Revy march 1st so I'll definitely try it out then
Roger that. Keep us updated
Ive tried with and without the key. I have a 2*. I can't tell any difference. I keep it in just for safe measures. As i understand it pulls timing progessively with RPM.
Another answer is you can run the same boost # with less race fuel when timing key is installed. IE mixing in cheaper pump fuel.
Which is still not what we were looking for. We're looking more for benifits of power I.e. how much power is the motor making on av at the most boost you can make while still staying safe. V.s. how much power is it making on av at the most boost it can make while staying safe with the timing key in.
We're trying to figure out how much power is lost on the top end with a timing retard and how much is gained by the ability to turn up the boost a little bit more.
T
TurboMatt
Well-known member
You are not going to really get a definate answer to this unless u dyno and since no one really dynos mtn sleds all that much good luck. Dealing this turbo 4 stroke cars for a while I have most always found benefits from backing off timing and turning up boost. And I have dynoed a lot of cars(I actually owned a dyno for a couple of years). This is obviously not the absolute rule but more of a generality.
I run the OVS timing key. It actually solved a mid range det problem that I was having last year when I was mixing gas(I just run str, 100LL now). At some point I'm gonna try removing it now that I'm running 100LL, but I bet I don't notice much of difference in top end power. I could b wrong though.
I run the OVS timing key. It actually solved a mid range det problem that I was having last year when I was mixing gas(I just run str, 100LL now). At some point I'm gonna try removing it now that I'm running 100LL, but I bet I don't notice much of difference in top end power. I could b wrong though.
D
dynotechjim
Well-known member
We've dyno tuned many boosted engines here over the past 26 years in the search for max reliable power on a given octane fuel--here's a synopsis of some of that tuning which is an excerpt from the latest boosted Etec 800 dyno test article on DTR--something for you guys to think about....
http://www.dynotechresearch.com/blog/archives.asp?chosenMonth=2&chosenYear=2013#290
http://www.dynotechresearch.com/blog/archives.asp?chosenMonth=2&chosenYear=2013#290
P
powerfuldodge
Well-known member
T
TurboMatt
Well-known member
Update: I've been running straight 100LL this whole season now so far . I experimented with removing the OVS timing key. I was running 8psi. When I removed the timing key I noticed 2 things: 1: It does run a little cleaner on the bottom end and quick on and off throttle conditions. This is only barely noticeable 2: My boost went up to 9psi. I thought this was strange, but I even reinstalled the key for a run up the hill just to verify it.
I pulled the key out in the field after running 1/2 the day with it so its a pretty good comparison.
I originally installed the key because I was having midrange DET issues in quick on and off throttle conditions(like side hilling or boondocking uphill through the trees) when running a 50/50 pump/110 race gas mix. It seems to run much better(and safer) with the 100LL.
I pulled the key out in the field after running 1/2 the day with it so its a pretty good comparison.
I originally installed the key because I was having midrange DET issues in quick on and off throttle conditions(like side hilling or boondocking uphill through the trees) when running a 50/50 pump/110 race gas mix. It seems to run much better(and safer) with the 100LL.
Similar threads
