Timbersled bearing removal

[needpowder]

16 timbersled. So I have all the bearings removed from the bike as well as the drive axle (The one with the drivers on it). My question is, the double bearing housing that is on the driveshaft, is that just pressed on? I just press it off right? Thanks. By the way, what a pain to remove these bearings, especially the single bearing housing by the brake.

Edit. Just pressed it off the axle. No problem. Pressed out all the other bearings as well. Just waiting for new bearings to show up now.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Yep.

Redneck trainwreck. (I should know I have 3) ?

 

[dooman92]

Bearings

What is the condition of the removed bearings? Any appear ready to fail?

 

[needpowder]

What is the condition of the removed bearings? Any appear ready to fail?

They all looked fairly good actually. The inside diameter of one in particular was worn a bit though and caused some wear on the driveshaft that comes straight off the counter sprocket and has the brake on it. I will have to replace it, because even with a new bearing it won’t fit tight anymore. I will post pictures of it as soon as the snowwest lets me.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

They all looked fairly good actually. The inside diameter of one in particular was worn a bit though and caused some wear on the driveshaft that comes straight off the counter sprocket and has the brake on it. I will have to replace it, because even with a new bearing it won’t fit tight anymore. I will post pictures of it as soon as the snowwest lets me.

Flip the jackshaft 180degrees.
The bearing will be on a new surface.

Save your money.

 

[needpowder]

Flip the jackshaft 180degrees.
The bearing will be on a new surface.

Save your money.

I’ll have to look at it again when I get home tonight but im pretty sure it can only go one way. It’s not the long drive shaft with the drivers on it. It’s the smaller shorter one with the brake on it. I think the way the brake fits is specific but I will have another look. Thanks.

Edit:OK, so I looked it up and it’s called the jackshaft not the driveshaft. Number 4 on this schematic.http://parts.polarisind.com/Assemblies.asp. Go to drivetrain, jackshaft and disc brake assembly

 

[M5-]

If its not too bad you may be able to use Loctite 680 on it to glue the new inner race to the shaft. I cant remember how big of a gap it'll fill off the top of my head but I have done it before. 680 is a bearing retainer compound, you just want to stop the inner race from spinning on the shaft.


M5

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

I’ll have to look at it again when I get home tonight but im pretty sure it can only go one way. It’s not the long drive shaft with the drivers on it. It’s the smaller shorter one with the brake on it. I think the way the brake fits is specific but I will have another look. Thanks.

Edit:OK, so I looked it up and it’s called the jackshaft not the driveshaft. Number 4 on this schematic.http://parts.polarisind.com/Assemblies.asp. Go to drivetrain, jackshaft and disc brake assembly

Yes it’s called the jackshaft. (See my post above)

It will definitely work flipped. (My brother has done it on his 16)

 

[needpowder]

Yes it’s called the jackshaft. (See my post above)

It will definitely work flipped. (My brother has done it on his 16)

Nice! I will check it out tonight.

 

[needpowder]

Bearings came on Friday. Ordered a 10 pack for 53 bucks with free priority shipping off ebay. Went with the SKF 6205 2RSH Explorer series. Getting everything back together now. Found a crack in one of my Ice Age rails so I had to get that welded first.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Bearings came on Friday. Ordered a 10 pack for 53 bucks with free priority shipping off ebay. Went with the SKF 6205 2RSH Explorer series. Getting everything back together now. Found a crack in one of my Ice Age rails so I had to get that welded first.

I would recommend bracing the rail with gussets rather than welding.
Welding that aluminum (7075-T6) will look ok when you do it but the heat affected zone turns to butter.
I’ve tried it. ?

(I’ve been welding stainless, Aluminum, chromoly etc for around 15 years)

 

[M5-]

I would recommend bracing the rail with gussets rather than welding.
Welding that aluminum (7075-T6) will look ok when you do it but the heat affected zone turns to butter.
I’ve tried it. ?

(I’ve been welding stainless, Aluminum, chromoly etc for around 15 years)

Ditto, been there done that, they just crack next to the weld. Gusset for sure. I'd call Nick at Iceage, I'm surprised that rail cracked, he may do something for you, He's bailed me out before.

M5

 

[needpowder]

Well, too late on the welding part. I had it done by a guy who came highly recommended here in Salt Lake. His specialty is repairing aircraft landing gear. I guess we’ll see if it holds up!

 

[M5-]

I'd be totally jacked about flying in a plane with repaired landing gear. Maybe not so much.


M5

 

[needpowder]

Ha! If my rail fails we should be double worried!