throwing in the towel (slp pipe+mesh hood)

[mtn mike on boost]

so i am on a new sled this season. 09 m8sp w/ the slp pipe kit.
i have always ran mesh hoods on my sleds, they just seem to run better and the longer belt life is a plus.unfortunately after several rides w/ the diamond s hood and several fabricated aluminum shields after each of these rides, the hood mesh just wont stop melting.yes i have cut down the pipe mount and bent the hood as much as i can, but even areas that have 2+" of clearance still melts this thing.

anyhow, i am looking for some hood vents, frogskins, homemade, and others.
lets see what you guys are running, and how your belt life is doing.i do have the clutch side shock tower vent as well as side panel vents.

 

[80arrow]

Do the stock hoods hold up better? Is it a common prob with slp set-up to melt the hood?

 

[rcr1978]

Yah it sucks two poeple I know have also thrown away big bucks on these just to melt them also. I just use the stocker got rid of all the stock screens, insulation and clips, used cats frog skins for the lower and upper hood holes. Be sure to order the cat frogskinz and not the ones off the frogskinz site the cat ones are a courser mesh and flow better. Got a hood lift(homemade but u can buy from RKT) wich I think is better than any vent you can buy and almost the cheapest, works awsome and you can set your goggles there when stopped they dry fast . I also have the side vents, thats it no belt problems and no more melting problems and I've got the SLP pipe also dont forget the heat tape though.

 

[mtn mike on boost]

on a side note, anyone having luck w/ aftermarket intakes w/ the slp pipe kit?
i dont want to use the original set up if i can help it.

 

[Burn Down]

I have the bdx intake with the slp pipe kit. Previous owner had it dialed before I got the sled but it runs very well, also running a boondocker box.

 

[AKDMAX1]

I also run the AMP gauge cage and love it, It really works you can feel the heat just pouring out of it like a chiminy

 

[goodan]

I called SLP the other day, as i myself have a 2009 M8. I just put the pipe kit on, and they said if I was to change my intake I would have to put a PC3 on it. From what I have read, when you change your intake it often causes troubles. Im going out the end of the month for the first time with the kit so we will see what happens. I havn't put any vents on it yet, just removed the insulation and put heat tape in!

 

[ARICH]

I ran a custom made hood vent (had local sheet metal shop make it for $20)frog skinz, AC mesh air box, and side panel vents, and some custom shock tower venting with jaws twins and never had a problem with overheating and never once changed a belt in the 800 miles i owned the sled

 

[mtn mike on boost]

I ran a custom made hood vent (had local sheet metal shop make it for $20)frog skinz, AC mesh air box, and side panel vents, and some custom shock tower venting with jaws twins and never had a problem with overheating and never once changed a belt in the 800 miles i owned the sled

looks nice!
you stated ac mesh air box.can you tell me more?

 

[aktreekiller]

hey

This is my set up with slp pipe kit and bdx intake. Also have 4 shock tower vents, side vents, gauge cage, console vents. It runs cool and has melted a little bit of the hood from being upside down.

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[WyoBoy1000]

is it only melting over the fat part of the pipe or all over. I am planning on building a hood but it would peak more in the middle and where the fat part of the pipe is I am going to section in some very thin aluminum. So I can still roll it over to get unstuck in deep snow without melting the screen.

 

[mtn mike on boost]

is it only melting over the fat part of the pipe or all over. I am planning on building a hood but it would peak more in the middle and where the fat part of the pipe is I am going to section in some very thin aluminum. So I can still roll it over to get unstuck in deep snow without melting the screen.

its melting along the entire pto side.its melting a bit on the mag side but only melting there around the area where the pipe stinger goes into the can.

if you are building a hood that works with the slp pipe, i would recommend a minimum of 3" clearance to the pipe.if you want to be able to roll the sled over w/o melting, i think its going to take 4" of clearance.i know this sounds ridiculous, but based on what i have seen, that's what its going to take. or maybe a more heat resistance mesh.

 

[ARICH]

http://www.countrycat.net/pages/parts/viewbybrand/3/0/8477/1736/default.aspx

0770-372

or BDX which comes with frog skinz probably more bang for your buck

http://bd-xtreme.com/bdxblackboxx.aspx

Hope that helps

 

[winter brew]

Hmm...I ran a mesh hood on a M- with a BMP Fatazz single, maybe 1" clearance at the most and it never melted except when the sled was upside down....but you would never do anything like that, would you!
It was easily fixed and VERY stylish with duct tape inside and out....and you can change the color of the tape to suit your mood.

 

[hatchers]

take some alum bar, maybe 1/8" thick buy 2" wide......build a square support around the suspect pip area, fasten to sled not the pipe, so the hood will rest on this support when you roll........or ditch the over rated POS DS hood like i did

good vents:
1- the new AC frog skins are working very very well for me, they are different then the typical frog vents
2- product tester sells a three piece hood vent kit that works great, basically covers the area around your dash
3- the amp cage is a bit costly.....some others on here make a great cheaper option

 

[mtn mike on boost]

Just thought id share what i did on this one.....
I bought a black hood off here a couple of months ago, but its for the older style gauge, so i was going to need to fab something up.
I had the white sno pro hood too, but sorry, just cant deal w/ the white.

Anyhow to kill 3 birds w/ one stone, i ended up cutting down some 1" aluminum stock to rivet across the backside of the speedo hole, then i glue gun'd some pet door screen over the opening.Hell, while i was at it i got the 2 1/2" hole saw out, and added 6 more vents in the console area, and glued the pet screen from the back sideThen i had these nylon spacers lying around, so i ground them down at an angle, slid them down around the speedo mounting studs and attached to the aluminum bracket.

Now i have more venting (and high up) i was able to mount the newer speedo to the older hood, and its also angled for better viewing.And the best part.....basically didn't cost me a thing to do it.Actually i am looking to buy and cut down, or build a windshield to match the one on the wife's sled.

 

[m8magicandmystery]

Hmm...I ran a mesh hood on a M- with a BMP Fatazz single, maybe 1" clearance at the most and it never melted except when the sled was upside down....but you would never do anything like that, would you!
It was easily fixed and VERY stylish with duct tape inside and out....and you can change the color of the tape to suit your mood.

yep thats what i got..and barely that clearance...i just took a bit of my old under hood foil and fasten it to the hood near the fat part/bend pto side...works well so far

 

[WyoBoy1000]

like I saying, I was going to section in thin aluminum in the problem areas so if the pipe came in contact with it, it would not melt anything. In other words over the hot parts of the pipe I would build (more or less) studs around these areas and then place in aluminum instead of mesh. It will also have far better venting with the design I plan on. If I ever have time to build it you will see what I am referring to. tell then best of luck.