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Throttle Safety Switch??

crf118r

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So I just installed a new throttle block that doesn't use the throttle safety switch. I was told just cut the wires and tuck them back down the housing (which I haven't done yet) to keep them clear so they wont touch and shut the machine off. I started the sled to make sure all was working properly and now it won't rev and pops and sputters as I give it throttle. WTF? Also the engine light is on. Now what?
 
Just to clarify why the heck I would change the throttle block on a brand new sled, I'll tell you. I roll the block around for use with my forefinger. Just the way I learned to ride early on after having a lot of thumb trouble. The old sleds (08 D8 and earlier) with the flatter bars were no problem. The new Pro Tapers turn down sooner and doesn't give me enough room for my hand when I pull the lever in. I installed a RSI block since it's narrow and gives me more room to move it over away from the bar end. I'm also installing a tether switch so I can delete the on/ off switch.
 
IIRC, there are 2 switches and this means that one switch is normally open while the other normally closed.
 
The normally open switch wires need to be cut and capped and then the normally closed wires need to be spliced together.
 
Alright, you made me pull out my manual. It looks like there is one switch with a 3 wire connector. 1 Brown, 1 black, and a black/red. You will need to splice the brown and black/red together.
 
Thanks! I'll go scout for the other wire. I'll probably be bugging you again in the morning. Thanks for the info.
 
Both of these switches need to be pulled by the throttle cable at the same time.. Less it throws a problem

aka Frozen throttle cable!!

it shuts it down!


so ya you will have to do both switches for it to work!

my .02
 
The other switch must be down on the linkage on the throttle bodies because there isn't any other wires coming up through the harness near where these wires come out. Seems like I'm missing something. So I would like to know if any one else has done this and if so HOW??
 
Got it fixed. I just rewired the switch back in after pulling the pin out that makes the main connection. Looks like the problem was the fact that it still makes a connection through 2 resistors even when the pin is pushed in. Kind of a funky circuit, but I assume the ecu senses the resistance and says go or no when the throttle is pushed in. I'll research a better way, but for now all is back in order. Thanks for the help guys.
 
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