http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112213
This is a quote from geo, I just thought i'd make it easy to find
I haven't been able to reply to messages this year 'cause of a BIG honey-do list LOL. Sorry LOL.
The suspention mod only changes the geometry, not the valveing. You're stuck with the too heavy rebound that the old guy (he should retire) that sets up the shocks Cat seems to like.
What the change does is stroke the shock approx. 10% more in the first 1/2 of travel and 10% less in the last 1/2 of travel, per inch of suspention travel. This allows you to start with less pressure (better ride in hieght, for me) and still not bottom. Theoretically it will allow more transfer (does for me), by allowing the rear sissor to move more than before.
Some dont feel that. Cool. Everyone is different in what they expect or feel.
The AC skid geometry is very coupled ( front arm moves up and rear shock has to too, and visa versa), so its hard to get the Doo skis in the air effect (need a turbo, LOL, then you will want less transfer LOL). That geometry also gives the best angle of attack (lots of benefits there) and keeps it through the rear sissor stroke.
Having more rear sissor movement on the AC skid does not make it trench more (because the angle of attack does not increase).
If you have too much middle spring pressure the track will saw through the snow and take longer to get on top. Trouble is a soft middle spring setting makes for heavy steering on the trail and off throttle ( so keep it pinned LOL). Pick your poison as I said before.
A good comprimise is a dual spring set on the middle shock (near zero spring pressure initially, when on the throttle and the middle shock is extended, and the front of the sled is supported by the stiffer second spring when off throttle). Ride in hieght is crucial when using a dual spring middle shock set-up to allow this transition point to be just right for you.
A good revalve is just a treat to ride on and if you plan on keeping the sled, do it. Best money you could ever spend for yourself. You will still need the dual spring set-up and proper ride hieght for you to get the best of both worlds (trail and powder).
I bought an adjustable air resevoir this year from Nextech in Canada (bigger volume change that Fett Bros, so more adjustability). It does the same as the suspention mod ( but costs more money) in that it allows more shock stroke before the air pressure stops travel.
The biggest benefit is allowing you to run more air pressure initially which helps counteract the heavy rebound some (but still not enough IMHO). Also when you have to double your honey on Sunday you just need to crank in the volume control LOL. Never pull out the pump again LOL.
If Holz is revalveing both shocks, supplying and installing a air resevoir, and a dual front spring set-up for a $175, then that is the answer for everyone's questions. It can't be done any cheaper, that's for sure, and will be the best money you have spent.
If it's designed by Holz, it will work.
Geo
This is a quote from geo, I just thought i'd make it easy to find
I haven't been able to reply to messages this year 'cause of a BIG honey-do list LOL. Sorry LOL.
The suspention mod only changes the geometry, not the valveing. You're stuck with the too heavy rebound that the old guy (he should retire) that sets up the shocks Cat seems to like.
What the change does is stroke the shock approx. 10% more in the first 1/2 of travel and 10% less in the last 1/2 of travel, per inch of suspention travel. This allows you to start with less pressure (better ride in hieght, for me) and still not bottom. Theoretically it will allow more transfer (does for me), by allowing the rear sissor to move more than before.
Some dont feel that. Cool. Everyone is different in what they expect or feel.
The AC skid geometry is very coupled ( front arm moves up and rear shock has to too, and visa versa), so its hard to get the Doo skis in the air effect (need a turbo, LOL, then you will want less transfer LOL). That geometry also gives the best angle of attack (lots of benefits there) and keeps it through the rear sissor stroke.
Having more rear sissor movement on the AC skid does not make it trench more (because the angle of attack does not increase).
If you have too much middle spring pressure the track will saw through the snow and take longer to get on top. Trouble is a soft middle spring setting makes for heavy steering on the trail and off throttle ( so keep it pinned LOL). Pick your poison as I said before.
A good comprimise is a dual spring set on the middle shock (near zero spring pressure initially, when on the throttle and the middle shock is extended, and the front of the sled is supported by the stiffer second spring when off throttle). Ride in hieght is crucial when using a dual spring middle shock set-up to allow this transition point to be just right for you.
A good revalve is just a treat to ride on and if you plan on keeping the sled, do it. Best money you could ever spend for yourself. You will still need the dual spring set-up and proper ride hieght for you to get the best of both worlds (trail and powder).
I bought an adjustable air resevoir this year from Nextech in Canada (bigger volume change that Fett Bros, so more adjustability). It does the same as the suspention mod ( but costs more money) in that it allows more shock stroke before the air pressure stops travel.
The biggest benefit is allowing you to run more air pressure initially which helps counteract the heavy rebound some (but still not enough IMHO). Also when you have to double your honey on Sunday you just need to crank in the volume control LOL. Never pull out the pump again LOL.
If Holz is revalveing both shocks, supplying and installing a air resevoir, and a dual front spring set-up for a $175, then that is the answer for everyone's questions. It can't be done any cheaper, that's for sure, and will be the best money you have spent.
If it's designed by Holz, it will work.
Geo
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