Thoughts on retrofitting HCR exchanger on PC?

[backcountryislife]

The reality is the cooler should be in the rear of the tunnel as that's were it can cool the most. They should have done like skidoo rev.

You can buy a sled with that system, just don't get an HCR.

If you watch an HCR & a m800 SP mid day though... the difference is very significant. The hcr hold VERY little snow, it's really cool. It holds even less than an M, and the M800 holds WAY more than an M.

I don't think it's right for everyone, but I think the shorter hcr/ 2013 SP cooler is a great idea.

 

[Woody67]

I think the full coolers on the PC cool too much. During all our riding last year the coolers were barely warm when riding in powder snow. All the m sleds were much warmer with much less snow build up. I think the low temp of the rear cooler caused much of the excessive snow build up. Ironically when beginners or any type of hard pack riding at slow speeds (without scratchers down) they would overheat much faster than an M.

We only ordered a few 800s with rear coolers for our customers that have to have the colors offered in those sleds.

Woody

 

[WYOF7EXT]

I am going in boys! It's too late to stop now!

Here is the plan, parts are on the way or here already:
Phase 1:

Remove exchanger and shorten to HCR length.
2.5" CE track
Oil Delete
Drilled brake disc
Drop skid down 3/4"
2013 engine mount plates and TCCL
Setup Sec. clutch to 2013 offset.

BTW on the scales last night. Full coolant, half full oil tank, very little fuel, 38" a-arms kit, powder pros, knee pads, handguards and Arctic Cat skid plate= 503lbs...

More to come...

 

[killerrf]

you can save that weight for when the OVS air to water turbo gets installed is the way i see it.

 

[WaBackcountry]

No new parts needed and best of all SnoPro Cooler doesn't have to be removed from sled. Pics and details to come!

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

 

[WYOF7EXT]

The exchanger is out (it took about 45 minutes after track was removed), cut down, re-welded and ready to go back in. Did the oil delete, now waiting on 2013 mounting plates to put it all back together. Not sure what the difference in the plates will be until they show other than they are two parts instead of one.

One thing for sure the engine does not get much support from the bottom mounts, that is all it's sitting on now and it can easily be moved. THey seem really soft. So the TCL and the mag side mount does most of the motion control. With the mounts having different mounting (pivot) locations along with the jackshaft pivoting in the chaincase, I think I can see that the TCL would deflect and then you have misaligned clutches? Its like a wierd triangle thing and none of the mounts seem to compliment each other?

I am not trying to start another belt thread, just some observations.

I will post some pics this weekend. BTW the exchanger is now three pounds lighter for those that asked, not including coolant. I am in this for losing the snow in the tunnel when riding.

 

[Burn Down]

I wonder if you could just pull the tunnel off and leave the rear cooler in place. Cut the cooler down to the desired length and tig weld it back up in chassis. I might give this a try if I convince myself to do a Camo 2.5 or PC 2.6 track as well...

 

[aksnopro]

hcr cooler should be standard.... just like any sled i have ever owned if you get on a road or somewhere you dont get snow on the cooler jump into the pow and the light would go off instantly.

they must have had leftover parts cause overheating wasnt an issue on my hcr


side by side all year with several sno pros, and only seen the light 2 times when it deserved to be on (hauling *** down a road)

but the snow on there tunnels was crazy, i have never seen that much snow buildup/stick on a sled. lol.....



-Aksnopro

 

[gjp]

If the main reason is to shed snow buildup on the tunnel there is a new product called Surefoot Ice-Free Running Board Coating ($75)
http://betweenthelinesdesigns.com/?page_id=345

Or you could use 0.005" UHMW tape for about $67 (6" x 5 yards)
http://catalog.cshyde.com/viewitems/tapes-with-psa/uhmw-tape--black-anti-stat-rubber-adhesive?

 

[CatRpillar]

I wonder if you could just pull the tunnel off and leave the rear cooler in place. Cut the cooler down to the desired length and tig weld it back up in chassis. I might give this a try if I convince myself to do a Camo 2.5 or PC 2.6 track as well...

And then put a Patricks carbon fibre tunnel piece back in to sub for the oem section.

 

[WaBackcountry]

I am into my cooler modification about $500 becuase I can not weld. Curt at Fastrax welded mine. If you can do it yourself you could do it very quickly for free. The carbon fibre rear tunnel section is upwards of $900+ if I remember correctly and you have a number of those nasty rivets on the rear tunnel section to get off.

 

[CatRpillar]

Have to take a look at those rivets. I bought some cobalt bits a while ago that seem to give those rivets a run for their money. The cf wont let stick to it either and loses another three lbs. Interested in that tape idea too.

 

[aksnopro]

i know what the F are them rivits made out of!!! jeeeessus!!! the one for the stirrup had me cussing!!

 

[HOOCH256]

One question I have for those of you who have done this mod, what are you putting in place of the cooler on the rear most part of the tunnel??? Just leaving it open? I'd imagine that the cooler offers some rigid support for the tunnel?


Sent from my super duper sweet iPhone using Tapatalk when I should be doing something productive!

 

[Daltech]

One question I have for those of you who have done this mod, what are you putting in place of the cooler on the rear most part of the tunnel??? Just leaving it open? I'd imagine that the cooler offers some rigid support for the tunnel?


Sent from my super duper sweet iPhone using Tapatalk when I should be doing something productive!

I did make a block of plate of alu. 0,8mm thick plate, and I made it doubble in the rear where you have the square in the tunnel where the heat exchanger sat.
Cooler does support the tunnel, so doing nothing, I would guess leave you with a bendt tunnel after some rides.

Hence the opening between cooler and plate. Cooler is not mounted on the picture, just put into the tunnel for pictures.

Alos notice I have 2 lines in the block of plate. Don't know the english word for it, but I have made them to make the plate more rigid if you see what I mean.

 

[knifedge]

One question I have for those of you who have done this mod, what are you putting in place of the cooler on the rear most part of the tunnel??? Just leaving it open? I'd imagine that the cooler offers some rigid support for the tunnel?


Sent from my super duper sweet iPhone using Tapatalk when I should be doing something productive!

--You could install an HCR rear section also for $87 -- item #7

http://www.countrycat.net/pages/oem...SNOWFLAP_ASSEMBLY/S2012M8HHCUSW/S2012M8HHCUSW

 

[WYOF7EXT]

Ok, phase one of the diet is done! -30 lbs...

For those interested in weight loss here is a summary

Start:2012 PC Sno Pro. coolant full, oil in middle of sight glass, chain case same, spash of fuel in tank, Powder Pro's, 38" front end, handguards, knee pads, A/C skid plate, touring bumper = 503lbs.

1) Speedwerx can -12lbs= 491 lbs
2) BDX oil delete, shorten cooler, 2013 parts incl. drilled brake disc, motor plates, TCL and fluids same as above -21lbs= 470 lbs
3) added CE 2.5" track and scratchers + 3lbs= 473lbs.

All weights +/- 1 lb.

How much work is it? PLENTY!!! Started last week and put about 10 hours I guess total. Worth it? I hope so and a bonus should be the CE track and skid drop.

As far as guys asking if they can cut and TIG weld the exchanger in the tunnel, I think good luck on that one!

I am going to build up a piece of aluminum to cover the holes in the tunnel extension. I will press a bead down the center for the taillight wiring and also will give it more strength. Thought about swapping out the rear tunnel. Looks like way too many rivets to be any fun and many are those serious looking ones...

To summarize the process for the exchanger:

1)Remove track (there is a good article on arcticchat)
2)Remove fuel tank braces, fuel tank
3)Drill out rivets on top of tunnel
4) there are two torx headed bolts under the tank brace brackets, remove them
5) remove mag side mount bolt through tab on exchanger
6) remove lower coolant hose RH side, drain coolant into pan
7) remove coolant filler hose
8) remove TCL
9) remove LH side brace from tunnel/exchanger to front frame brace
10) remove two front bolts than go through frame and lower corners of the exchanger
11) remove tow screw that go through exchanger and into chaincase (inside of tunnel)
12) drill out three rivets under heat tape at front of tunnel/ into exchanger
13)drill out 9 rivets on LH side of exchanger (not the rivets that hold the two tunnel layer together!)
14) drill out 5 rivets on RH side of exchanger.
15) make sure the back side off all rivets are removed!
16) remove exchanger assy byt dropping the bumper end down first and wiggle it out of the tunnel. I had the sled up on a lift.

NOTE: Arctic Cat rivets have either a steel or stainless steel body. I would recommend getting them for A/C as I found none with steel bodies at any of the local hardware stores although there are not a lot to choose from.

Reverse steps to reinstall!

I have more pics if you are interested PM me.

 

[CatRpillar]

Great stuff man! I was probably one of the guys asking about doing the cut and tig in place. So, do you think it is still basically impossible to do - even if a guy removed the tunnel extension (and drilled out all those damn rivets)? Thinking if I put in a Patricks cf tunnel extension I'd be taking things apart that far anyway....... Of course the cut line would leave a longer exchanger than the 13 or HCR ones but I'm still wondering. Thx in advance.

 

[WaBackcountry]

Great stuff man! I was probably one of the guys asking about doing the cut and tig in place. So, do you think it is still basically impossible to do - even if a guy removed the tunnel extension (and drilled out all those damn rivets)? Thinking if I put in a Patricks cf tunnel extension I'd be taking things apart that far anyway....... Of course the cut line would leave a longer exchanger than the 13 or HCR ones but I'm still wondering. Thx in advance.

No, you do not need to remove the cooler if you don't want to. This is what we did to mine. Pull the skid, pull the driveshaft/trackshaft, remove fuel tank, cut small hole in top of tunnel under seat for welding access, drill out rivets at rear portion of cooler, cut and weld, slip a piece of alum in rear section so from the top it looks like stock, then re rivet cooler on and you're good to go!

As i said Curt at Fastrax did all the welding on mine. He is a top notch guy to work with!

 

[prairiepowderhead]

If the main reason is to shed snow buildup on the tunnel there is a new product called Surefoot Ice-Free Running Board Coating ($75)
http://betweenthelinesdesigns.com/?page_id=345

Or you could use 0.005" UHMW tape for about $67 (6" x 5 yards)
http://catalog.cshyde.com/viewitems/tapes-with-psa/uhmw-tape--black-anti-stat-rubber-adhesive?

We also have out a Surefoot sled coat, Which is almost the same as the running board coat, but much more durable, For tunnels, rails, and a- arms. We also have a buff in product for all your plastics that will polish them and make them 100% iceophobic.

Jared
Between the Lines Designs