I've got the engine out of my '06 900. I've read alot of really helpful threads. What are some things I should be doing while the engine is out? I have a FBF throttle/oil cable on the way as well as the SLP torque arm kit. I am replacing the engine case due to a manufacturing defect. Anything I should do while the engine is opened up? I am going to change the plumbing on the radiators to make them a continuous loop. I ride strictly groomed trails in the east, so powder isn't a real issue. Does anyone know if the fire n ice intake is only for the RMK? Thanks guys. You have all been a big help so far.
Things to do while the engine is out
- Thread starter kkoval
- Start date
How many miles on it? It may be worth it to do a top end.
Fire N Ice should fit fusions too. Check all wiring while engine is out. Add wire protective loom where you have exposed wires that rub against anything. Make sure no wires are pinched under the fuel tank. Replace coolant overflow hose so it isn't dumping into your stator or brakes plastic tubing is $.49 a foot here. Clean area under engine.
It's got 250 miles on it. I did new SPI pistons, but havn't pulled the jugs off yet to see if they got hurt. I rebuilt the top end due to coolant in the engine, put it back together and found out the case was bad (too thin in the fuel injection port). If the SPI's got hurt, should I stay with the SPI's or go back to stock Polaris?
I would be checking those pistons. The SPI is an exact copy of the 05 piston which was discontinued because the skirt breaks off when they fail and destroys your engine. Go with Stock 06 Polaris pistons. Not worth the risk of blowing your engine up the first ride after you do all that work due to poor piston design.
check out this post. http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=246419
Drill new holes about 1/2" forward of the existing holes at your regulator. You can drill them after you take your secondary off.
Move the regulator forward, that way all the wires are not jammed up against your fuel tank and at risk of chaffing/breaking where they are located now.
This also helps when re installing fuel tank, it gives you a bit more room to push it forward to get the 2 real tank tunnel bolts in.
Move the regulator forward, that way all the wires are not jammed up against your fuel tank and at risk of chaffing/breaking where they are located now.
This also helps when re installing fuel tank, it gives you a bit more room to push it forward to get the 2 real tank tunnel bolts in.
B
bustamove
Active member
yea im talked about... so i got my sled rebuilt with oem pistons.... runs like a top,, happy now... all i can add to this... FOR THE LOVE OF GOD DOOOO NOT,,, i can't make this any clearer.. DOOOOOOO NOOOOTTTT USE SPI!!!!!!!!!!!!! unless you like when duke nukem shows up....
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