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The Mt. Rainier Trip. "....can't we just fly the heli up here?"

For a few years we've talked about the climb to the summit. In February we decided to stop procrastinating and really do it. Who would go? When would we go? The decision was to make the trip on June 26th.

Well we started out with 8 in the group. The plan was two rope teams of 4. Pretty good group if you need to do an sort of rescue. Two people in the group had been to the summit before...one of which had done it 24 times. That guy would be the leader.

Next, we need to get the individual permits to go above 10k' and submit our plan to the NPS. They would then issue a group permit and reserve the date and then everything is ready to go.

Fast forward to earlier this month. We are now down to 5 who are commited. The two experienced climbers decided to make a quick trip to the summit on June 13th without telling us.... As they approach 11k' one of them is noticing altitude sickness. They press on. At 12,800' the sickness was so bad that he was coughing pink stuff, had a massive headache and started to lose his mind.

3 days later he starts to lose feeling in his feet and visits the doctor...who tells him he has a herniated disc. Now he is out.

We are down to 4 with less than two weeks to go.

Two days before the climb, June 24th, the leader... the guy with 24 summit ascents..... backs out.... Family issues. WTF?????

Now we are down to 3. All rookies. Never been higher than 11k' on the mountain. Are we still going???

Yes we are.

Thursday night we head out to stay at Paradise Lodge for the evening. $172.00 for a room with 3 beds. Art was fine with two but I wasn't in the mood. The walk down the hallway promted the question... "did we just pay $172.00 for a $40.00 room?

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Our key says 301.... What does this mean?

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Two seconds later and Art is ready for bed....

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Maybe this is a $30.00 room but at least we have running water in the room.

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Do we have cell service here??

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This pic has already been posted but....... WTF is this all about?? The box that this soap came in talked about how they were basically saving the world by eliminating the center of the soap since you never use it. Are you F-ing kidding me? How about just reduce the size and the amount...like the little soap you get at normal hotels....

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Alarm is set for 7am and we head out for some oatmeal pancakes... Then it's off to the Ranger Station check-in. Fill out all the forms..things like: how much food do you have, Do you have any radios, do you know what you are doing etc....

Now we head back to the parking lot to grab a few items from the car...

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Art doing what he does best...

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A quick check on pack weight....

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A final stop at the restroom....here is the 3rd in our group...He has no idea what he is about to endure with us....

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More to come....
 
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Thats it........


Some bedroom shots and Art holding your "special" soap!! WTF!!!!

I though you guy's went to climb a hill or somthing!!
 
A view up to where we are going.... A little foggy in the morning....

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In a short amount of time it starts to clear up...

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...and now it's time for suntan lotion......

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Back into the clouds....

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Finally we are now above the clouds and it's sunny the rest of the way up....

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Some wildlife along the way... This guy came up to me like I had some food for him....

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If you leave me with a camera, I will take your picture when you are.......

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We can see Camp Muir now.... just another 1,500' in elevation to go..

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More to come....
 
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I made it to Camp Muir.... Elevation 10k' +. The first stop along the way. We've been hiking for 5.5 hours so far. A little slower than the two previous times we've been to Muir but that might have to do with the heavier packs and the softer snow.

Here is Corey and the far back is Art...I think he got stuck behind a large group.

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Here is Art at Muir...

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The buildings at Muir...

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The buildings smell great!!

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Most people stay here for the night and head to the summit in the morning. We chose to go higher up to Ingram Flats which is up at 11,000'. We liked the idea of a shorter run for the summit attempt. After an hour or so at Muir it's time to rope up and head up into the rocks.... The hike now turns into a climb.

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You can see in this picture where the other climbers are and where they are headed...

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Right up into the rocks.... Rocks that are loose and coming down on top of you... Helmet time.

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Art is trying to figure out the knots!!!

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Here is Art up into the switchbacks in the rocks...

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More to come.... Big Truck just relax....
 
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Ingram Flats, where we camp for the evening is in sight!! 11,000'. You can see the large rock ridge on the right... That's called "Disappointment Cleaver". The route up at this time of year. You climb up the ridgeback... Interesting climb in the daylight. We'll be doing it in total darkness.

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A look back from the same spot....

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First thing to do is get camp set up.... We poached a spot left open from someone that already did all the hard work.... Snow wall....flat area.... Saved us a bunch of time.

When we get there the sun was still above us but within 5 minutes it tucks in behind the summit and the temps dropped about 30 degrees in 5 minutes and the wind which was calm 5 minutes earlier are now steady at 30+mph. It's getting cold!! Get that tent up now!!

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The view from the tent

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The views inside the tent.... This is really gay....

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It's now 7pm and I'm trying to get some sleep!!

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Here we are making water for the ascent to the summit... Don't dig in the yellow snow!!

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The wind continues to get stronger and the noise is really preventing me from quality sleep. We re-secure the tent to prevent it from blowing into Yakima. Time to get back to sleep...put in the ear plugs and set the alarm for 1am.

1am comes and the wind died down a bit...We might have had 3 hours of horrible sleep...maybe. We get up and prepare climb.... Somehow it takes us 90 minutes to get our sh!t together and head out at 2:30am...

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Art is ready to go...

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More to come...
 
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Geeze, Cant you post any faster than this?? Im so sure!!!

I think ART should be doing this. His grammer and commentary is so much better.....




LOL!!

Great pics by the way!!
 
OK guys... let's go. Where are we going... I can't see!

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Up the Cleaver we go.... It's only a 600' drop at our feet at this point.

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We didn't take many pictures on the Cleaver as it was a hands-on ordeal. Now I know why people die in this section. If you are not paying attention, you'll be at the bottom via the shortcut!! Full on hands and feet climbing while avoiding rocks tumbing down at you from other climbers. Our helmets were used a few times to deflect. The angle is 65 degrees. Good times

Here is a shot of the sky during this section...

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We get to the top of the Cleaver and take a short break. Now the wind is ripping through again! It doesn't take much to go from sweating and hot and really cold... in fact it only took me 2 minutes.

Here is a shot at the top of the Cleaver looking Northwest..

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...and a shot looking back

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Time to head up the next section.... We ran into this guy who was taking shots of climbers on the mountain....

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Nice color in the morning hours...

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It just doesn't end!!

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A lot of this along the way... It looked more like August up here than June!!

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More to come...
 
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Lets see the summit pics and the can of rainier beer:beer;They will fly a heli up there but you have to be dead:D
 
More gaps to fall into....

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We take our final rest and look back at some climbers coming up behind us.... We're so close to the top but the breaks are more frequent and the pace is a bit slower. Our 3rd is starting to feel the effects of altitude sickness. Time to get moving again!

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At 9:45am Saturday morning, after climbing since 2:30 am, we reach the crater of Mt.Rainier...

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I say "crater" because that is not the summit.... The summit is over there on the other side of the crater....Dammit!!!!!

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Here I am taking a short break to check out the snow depth and quality of the snow flakes at 14,400 feet.

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Now we reach the summit! Here is a look east where we came up to the crater...

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What mountain is this???

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A shot facing west to the Puget Sound...

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This mountain???

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More to come...
 
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14,411' !! Only took 37 years to do it....

Shot of me looking North.


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Me and Corey..... Where is Art???

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Here he is.....

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Ace and Gary....

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Time for the can of Rainier!!

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Corey drank it all!!!

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Of course you knew this was coming!!!

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Our buddy Tim who got altitude sickness two weeks ago...

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Time to break out the sat phone and make a few phone calls... I could have charged a pretty penny up there to make calls!!

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We spend 75 minutes at the summit. The wind was blowing the whole time. Around 17 degrees with a stiff wind at 40mph. During one of my sat phone calls, Art tells me to look behind us and I see this guy buck naked getting his picture taken!! It was very cold out!!! VERY COLD! Art then says "I'm out of here!!" and leaves to go to the other side of the crater where out stuff is. 5 minutes later I hear the same people behind me and look back and now the woman who was taking the picture before is buck naked!!! ....and she looked good!!! Nice treat at the top!

At 11am we start to head down....First thing out of my mouth is "where is the heli??"

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more to come
 
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The wind stopped and now it was getting really warm.... Starting to sweat at 13k'. Going down seems hard just because you want to get the heck off the mountain. It's a long slushy walk and we still have to go down the Cleaver soon. Water supply was low as well.

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We have a long ways to go...

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We make it down to the Cleaver at 12,500'. This section is going to be a pain in the a$$. Very steep and loose rock with snow in places. We have a quick chat about the route and safety and then proceed.

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Here is a view of our camp from the the top of the Cleaver...

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Now comes the interesting section...

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Here's the deal... it's steep, it's loose and the snow is very slushy.... Trying to climb down will be difficult. We need to clip in to the rope anchored to the rocks as well as our rope.

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That's pretty steep!!

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More to come
 
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Good job guys, that is one tough climb.

First mountain in the distance from the summit is St Helens.

Second mountain in the distance from the summit is Mt Adams, a great non-technical climb from the south side.
 
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Corey sets up the rope for him and makes sure everything is ready...

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Art looks back for one more shot......

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Then falls on his butt... I take this picture immediately and then stuff my camera in my pocket...grab the slack in the rope and throw it out in front of me...run over to the other rope and clip in just in time for Art to yank me down the hill with him!!

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Corey follows right behind me and now we're about 150' down the rock all bunched up in a pile. Our carbiners clipped in to the stop on the rope caught us and prevented further decent.... Not out of control but not in total control. Good times!!

I leave the camera in my pocket as we really needed to concentrate on the task at hand until we got back down to camp....

We get down to Ingram to our high camp to pick up our tent and other items we left behind... Here is a look back up...Cleaver on the right...

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Corey walked over to the tent..pulled out his pad and promptly passed out for 45 minutes...

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He was wiped out!!!

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Time for me to pack up...

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Breaking down camp....

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We start talking about how we still have 4 hours of hiking before we reach the parking lot... Just then this a-hole goes by us on skis!!! Dammit!!!

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We make it to Muir in less than an our... Take off the crampons..rope...harness...etc... Now we are in the home stretch. Can we make it down in two hours from here??? Only if you glisade and run!! Let's go!! Art has some of those pics.... We make it down to the parking lot at 7:08 pm Saturday night. We've been going non-stop since 1am in the morning. Our legs are tired, we haven't really eaten much all day. We are very thirsty and we want to get the heck out of there!!!

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More to come....
 
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A view of where we were just at only 8 hours prior...

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A quick change in clothes and pile all of our stuff in the back and it's time to get some food.... and water.... Lots of it.

We all stumble home around midnight and pass out for a nice 10 hour nap.

Sunday morning it was time to get our stuff unpacked... and figure out who had what....

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Nice gut on Art!!!! Twins???

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It was a good trip. Nobody died. Lost 11 pounds! I'm ready to go again!!
 
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