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The good and bad on porting tracks

S

SpencerA

Member
I have a 144 track and I'm in the process of taking as much weight off my sled as I can. For all around riding do you guys think porting is worth it? Pros and cons.
 
I dont think there are any real cons to it. Just dont drill directly behind the paddles and you will be fine.
 
Is it more of a factor in allowing trapped snow to get out or is it the actual weight loss from removing track itself? Anyone have pictures or know of a good thread on how to do it? I just want to make sure I do it right and not screw up my track.
 
I used a hole saw with the teeth ground off and the INSIDE edge beveled to make it sharp.
Don't drill on the outer track edge.
Keep the holes lines up in a row when looking at the length. If you stagger them all over, you will cut more threads that hold the track together.

Honestly, I'm not sure if it did help, but I did this to a couple tracks and ran them for a few years without any problems, stretching, etc.

I think those in the pic are 1-1/4" holes, 2 per pitch
 
Unless someone can convince me that its way better then I'll most likely just keep my track stock.

Markedly less snow stays in the suspension that's for sure. The weight savings are not even worth the time it takes to do it IMO.
 
The debate if it's better or worse is still on. For the last 5 years or so, new sleds were coming from the factory with big holes in the track. If you go look at new machines now, some still do and some don't.

The holes themselves will only save you a couple pounds.
In certain conditions, less snow will accumulate in the suspension, which will make it lighter.
I found the track rotates easier, so doesn't that free up HP.?

If you decide to do this, here's a few tips.
I did this with the suspension removed.
Make a wooden template to lay in between the paddles. use this to drill your pilot holes, 2-3 what ever you decide.
The template will keep the holes aligned.
Get a bigger piece of wood to lay inside the track.
Start drilling with the hole saw described above.
The hole saw will heat up and cut through the track like butter.
It will also cauterize the holes so no loose ends.
And do it in a good ventilated area, cause it makes a fair bit of smoke.
 
The debate if it's better or worse is still on. For the last 5 years or so, new sleds were coming from the factory with big holes in the track. If you go look at new machines now, some still do and some don't.

The holes themselves will only save you a couple pounds.
In certain conditions, less snow will accumulate in the suspension, which will make it lighter.
I found the track rotates easier, so doesn't that free up HP.?

If you decide to do this, here's a few tips.
I did this with the suspension removed.
Make a wooden template to lay in between the paddles. use this to drill your pilot holes, 2-3 what ever you decide.
The template will keep the holes aligned.
Get a bigger piece of wood to lay inside the track.
Start drilling with the hole saw described above.
The hole saw will heat up and cut through the track like butter.
It will also cauterize the holes so no loose ends.
And do it in a good ventilated area, cause it makes a fair bit of smoke.

How long does it take to cut the wholes? And i think its only Doo that has the ported tracks on there bigger mountains sleds I could be wrong tho just have not seen any other companys that were putting them on there sled since about 08 or so.
 
Markedly less snow stays in the suspension that's for sure. The weight savings are not even worth the time it takes to do it IMO.
the track doesent loose a lot of weight but snow build up is almost gone
and as you know 30 to 40 lbs is av min a skid..
 
I did it and I like it, if you do alot of bush wacking then I would not pepper the track too much as a branch could get stuck and rip the track. It does free up some power and lighten it up, I lost 4 pounds cutting excess off my 151 track on my elan 540.

Here's a video I made showing how to port a track:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yNYgZM0CL9U
 
Dooo it.....

I have done 3 so far and am in the process of another one. The snow build up is less. The BDX tool (thanks snowduck) makes short work of it compared to the hole saw. Rotational mass is a big deal on a sled, especially w the track. The additional flexibility also makes a huge difference producing less drag. I only run two holes evenly spaced in the middle of the track.

I won't lie to you, it takes a long daggum time to port a track.......you will be sick of it by the time you are done......but I think it is worth it.
 
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