THB...gear down and team tied

[ReTodd]

I spent a lot of time playing with the team tied and also gearing down....since a lot of people are spending a lot of money doing these same things I thought I'd share my experience...I put 3000 miles on my 2012 and have 2000 on my 2013 of all mountain riding at Blue River, Whistler, Revelstoke, Coqhuihalla, and Baker. Conditions vary widely from super dry, cold powder to Baker concrete.

Geared down my sled would take off a bit faster than a stocker (all my buddies ride stockers) but didn't gain anything else and the clutch temps were just as hot as stock. I also marked my primary with sharpee before and after the gear down and both were using the full clutch face.

Team Tied didn't make a noticeable difference in in performance or belt temp.

I tried a lot of different spring weight combinations and was hitting my target rpm's.

In my opinion...save your money and if you want it to hit harder out of the hole buy a team primary with a higher engagement.

ReTdd

 

[randy542]

what gear down kit did you use and what ratio? good info as i was thinking of doing this.

 

[Trenchmaster]

I found the best result from gearing down was that the clutches held the sled back better going downhill, hardly ever need to touch the brakes going downhill now.

 

[Flyn Or Dyn]

gearing down

Did you use some one's gear down kit or did you do the trial and error to get the clutching, springs and ratio you wanted. 2.5" track or 3" Thanks for the info

 

[ReTodd]

I found the best result from gearing down was that the clutches held the sled back better going downhill, hardly ever need to touch the brakes going downhill now.

That's true...definitely more engine breaking but again I accomplish the same thing with higher engagement primary spring.

Sleds were stock motors and 163" tracks. Obviously wouldn't apply to bigger tracks/lugs except in the case of the team tied.

Rt

 

[die hard poo]

Ya I didn't see much gain with the tied clutch a couple years ago when they were "cool". Personally, the best bang for the buck for throttle response is a good set of weights. And a slightly steeper initial clutch angle. This will increase the shift out speed. What gear ratio did you try?

 

[geo]

That's true...definitely more engine breaking but again I accomplish the same thing with higher engagement primary spring.

Sleds were stock motors and 163" tracks. Obviously wouldn't apply to bigger tracks/lugs except in the case of the team tied.

Rt

Hard for me to understand why a higher engagement spring would give more downhill breaking.
Isnt the primary rpm sensing? Add throttle to increase rpm and the clutch closes on the belt. Release the throttle it should open I think.

Downhill breaking is provided by the engine if the primary retains it's grip on the belt after you release the throttle, correct? If the primary spring rate is higher or just initial spring force is higher, wouldn't the primary release quicker-easier?
Wouldn't that give less downhill breaking? Is downhill breaking good or bad clutching, in theory? It take friction energy to create braking forces. I think that create heat too. If your clutches are giving you downhill breaking force are they not always applying these negative breaking forces? That would create wasted energy through heat, wouldn't it?

We have a P85 not an old TRA. One of the first things I try to do is make sure the primary opens (releases) in a timely fashion lol. Otherwise you need more help from the secondary right?
If the secondary is asked to waste too much negative force to help the primary open (it needs to help some just to keep belt contact though), would that not lead to excessive heat, slower acceleration, slower backshift, less HP to the track?

Gearing down should require less work from the primary to spin up the track, I think. If the primary needs to work less wouldn't that mean that the secondary needs to help less too? So, less work required, less load on the belt, should mean less heat I think.

I don't know, just throwing s**t out there.