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Temps with T-bob's?

D

DieselTwitch

Well-known member
I finally got a temp gauge on my bike and an engine shroud.

I was surprised to find that the thermostat opens at 150F? Should this be more like Opens at 210, Closes at 180?

Im dropping to about 120F when i hit the deep on fluffy days. The bike is running good and the oil is staying clear and clean.
 
A few rides earlier in the months with 20" fresh and sub zero temps I was getting below 100. That's shrouded, too. Not sure what to do when it's that cold and deep. Bike does not like it.
 
I finally got a temp gauge on my bike and an engine shroud.

I was surprised to find that the thermostat opens at 150F? Should this be more like Opens at 210, Closes at 180?

Im dropping to about 120F when i hit the deep on fluffy days. The bike is running good and the oil is staying clear and clean.
180 gives you good clean burn in the 4 banger ...but I am sure thermobobs are for all season and that would be pushing it in the summer months... Just a thought ..
A few rides earlier in the months with 20" fresh and sub zero temps I was getting below 100. That's shrouded, too. Not sure what to do when it's that cold and deep. Bike does not like it.


Sent from my fax machine
 
I noticed (after I recieved it) the 4 stroke "bob" comes with a 170 deg f stat installed, he offers a 190 and even a couple hotter replacement stats, I wish I would have seen it at the time of purchase. he sells the replacement stats for 20 bucks. with the 170 in it mine seems to open around 155-160. my avid stat has a 190 deg f in it and it runs about 182. I run heat exchanger so see very stable temps.
 
I noticed (after I recieved it) the 4 stroke "bob" comes with a 170 deg f stat installed, he offers a 190 and even a couple hotter replacement stats, I wish I would have seen it at the time of purchase. he sells the replacement stats for 20 bucks. with the 170 in it mine seems to open around 155-160. my avid stat has a 190 deg f in it and it runs about 182. I run heat exchanger so see very stable temps.

What do you mean heat exchanger? Like a tunnel cooler?

i've thought about doing this! Minus the fact that I would have to support my shrouds some how.
 
On the Thermobob there are several different thermostats that are available. You can specify the one you want when purchasing.
 
What do you mean heat exchanger? Like a tunnel cooler?

i've thought about doing this! Minus the fact that I would have to support my shrouds some how.

yes a tunnel cooler, aka heat exchanger. Here's a few threads I dug up there's alot more if u search. I run my engine covered up completely, with the tunnel cooler when the thermostat calls for cooling you have all the cooling in the world available. temps are consistent and u dont have to mess with blocking and unblocking radiators all the time. for example on my yz450 with the avid thermostat at 190 deg f I run 178-184 all the time no matter what. I do use scratchers if its hardpack otherwise I get hot. initially I kept 1 radiator but ended up ditching it. I got rid of the shrouds completly, my bike is really slim.

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3789052&postcount=2

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=407789

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=394630

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=347711

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=391181

picture.php


picture.php
 
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Today had temps while riding from 160 to a max of 205 . You can tell the thermobob opens at 170 as temps drop while riding when temps hit about 175.
Slow trail riding yields 190-199 . Any forward speeds drop temp back to 170 . Electric fan kicks in approx 200 F . Bike is a 2012 Husqvarna TE511.
No deep powder today . Should see some Saturday , will report back temps under those conditions . Thermobob seems to solve over fuel issue for me.
 
Thermo bob

I run thermobob and a rear tunnel cooler, engine totally closed in, temps 165-185 consistently, have to run scratchers on hardback.
 
I don't understand why you guys need to block rad if you have a working thermostat. If the thermostat works good, you have NO coolant circulation so rad or no rad should not matter.

I can understand the point in a tunnel cooler to have MORE cooling capacity, but not to have LESS.

Seems like the thermostat are not sealing properly.
 
I don't understand why you guys need to block rad if you have a working thermostat. If the thermostat works good, you have NO coolant circulation so rad or no rad should not matter.

I can understand the point in a tunnel cooler to have MORE cooling capacity, but not to have LESS.

Seems like the thermostat are not sealing properly.

It seems as though the bypass is always drawing a little cold water out of the radiators even when the thermostat is closed. Blocking the radiators off seems to keep the coolant in the radiators warmer and the temps more constant throughout the day with the thermostat opening and closing. It's not a huge difference for me, but it does help.

Having a thin sheet of plastic between the radiator fins and the radiator also drastically reduces the amount of ice that builds up on the radiators.
 
I run a t-bob and when Im cruising in the powder Ill get under 100. I need to shroud up or something. Only way to keep the temps up is bag the hell out of it which I usually have no problem doing!
 
I have a 2015 Husky FC 450 with a T Bob and I had an engine shroud. Bike ran way to warm with engine shroud on so I removed it. As long as I am moving good it runs around 167 to 185. If I am moving slower or putting around I have to stop and put snow on my radiator or it get to hot 215 to 220. I hear everybody complaining about not being warm enough and I have the opposite problem. My oil always looks fine because I keep I close eye on the temp gauge. Makes me nervous when my wife or one of my buddies rides it. Thinking about rigging up some tunnel coolers.
 
here's my opinion, and u know what its worth, what u paid, etc....

if u like running the engine covered up to increase pow temps, then when u need / thermo calls for cooling you might be short (cooling) with radiators only. tunnel cooler gives you more cooling than you could ever need, with direct / plentiful snowspray. if the thermo (stat), (bob) calls for cooling tunnel cooler = plenty of cooling available. its not necessary but it makes the system more "automatic"
 
I have a 2015 Husky FC 450 with a T Bob and I had an engine shroud. Bike ran way to warm with engine shroud on so I removed it. As long as I am moving good it runs around 167 to 185. If I am moving slower or putting around I have to stop and put snow on my radiator or it get to hot 215 to 220. I hear everybody complaining about not being warm enough and I have the opposite problem. My oil always looks fine because I keep I close eye on the temp gauge. Makes me nervous when my wife or one of my buddies rides it. Thinking about rigging up some tunnel coolers.
I went the tunnel cooler route and it is the best way to keep stabilized temps ... No more wild spikes... Do you have to have it.... No bit at the end of the day it keeps the engine in the same operating range throughout the whole season... Even in spring;)

Sent from my fax machine
 
I went the tunnel cooler route and it is the best way to keep stabilized temps ... No more wild spikes... Do you have to have it.... No bit at the end of the day it keeps the engine in the same operating range throughout the whole season... Even in spring;)

Sent from my fax machine

all about the stability, no spikes!
 
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If you get spikes with a thermostat, the problem is the thermostat system. You'll get the same spikes with a tunnel cooler if your thermostat mess things up.
 
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