Temp light on and rev light on and off flashing when going forward?

[Brandonedge700]

I have a 2004 Polaris Vertical edge 700, 151 track (If that matters) All stock except a MBRP can. 3100 miles on it owned it for 2 years with no problems.
Today after riding for 4 hours my red temp light and yellow rev (Reverse) light started flickering on and off. I couldnt have been overheating, I was riding in deep fluffy powder, taking it easy just playing in untouched meadows all day with about 1 foot of powder, and my coolant is at the proper level. Lots of snow on the heat exchangers! I even stopped and threw atleast 10 shovel fulls of snow into my tunnel. New oil/water pump belt. I did bump my oil pump a little richer if that matters? Im tempted to buy a new coolant temp sensor? Anybody have any ideas? Never had any issues with this sled since it was bought in 2004 by a buddy of mine that owns the polaris dealer (his personal sled, very lightly ridden). Has only ever ran 91 octane and Polaris VES gold oil.
Looking for some advice if anybody has any!

 

[whoisthatguy]

I wasn't aware that there was any allowable adjustment in the oil pump, and I owned an edge for 8 years. You may have just loosened up the air bleeder. Does the sled use the normal amount of oil? Is there any play in the primary clutch that indicates an impending crankshaft bearing failure? Have you changed out your rear idler bearings, and driveshaft bearings? Do all the other idler wheel spin freely without wobble? Is there air trapped in the top of the cylinder head cover, that can only be removed by driving up an incline, parking it, and bleeding the air out? What are your cylinder compression test numbers? They should be over 140 psi at sea level.

 

[Brandonedge700]

There is a guy on here by the name of JAY, he told me how to do it. I cant remember how to do it but all I know is I put it so that it was so rich it would foul plugs and then I bumped it down a bit. I usually used to use about 1/4 of a tank of oil to a tank of fuel, now I use a tad more.

 

[Brandonedge700]

It is not the oil pump air bleeder screw, you physically move the oil pump arm somehow. I figured it out my temp flash problem, ended up being a loose connection at the temp sensor.
I dont know what any of those questions about the wheel bearings and chaincase have to do with anything. My engine is fine, no movement at the clutch, good compression, antifreeze is fine.

 

[whoisthatguy]

It is not the oil pump air bleeder screw, you physically move the oil pump arm somehow. I figured it out my temp flash problem, ended up being a loose connection at the temp sensor.
I dont know what any of those questions about the wheel bearings and chaincase have to do with anything. My engine is fine, no movement at the clutch, good compression, antifreeze is fine.

You will not be able to tell what condition your rear bogie wheel bearings are in, until you remove all the rear bogie wheels from the sled. In my experience, they are completely shot at 3000 miles.