TECH TIPS 600/700/800 CFI's Free Mods & Best Bang for the Buck

[whittaker727]

2) I've always personally found a noticeable performance gain with a fresh spring in the primary @ the beginning of the season. My buddy owns a cylinder head rebuilding shop and we used his valve spring tester on new and old springs and found a measureable difference after the spring was used for only 1 season. As an alternative to purchasing a spring each and every season, Sometimes we would pull the cover off the primary and let the primary sit in the fully extended position during summer storage.

Why not buy just one RCS titanium spring and be done with it?

 

[GoHiSK1]

I am from Canada. and just had our local dealer look up the Polaris TPS tester part # and it is a good number but states that it is no longer available.
Will have to make my own.

 

[Kraven]

T.P.S. TESTER IS STILL AVAILABLE

I am from Canada. and just had our local dealer look up the Polaris TPS tester part # and it is a good number but states that it is no longer available.
Will have to make my own.

That # is good, I just got one less than 2 months ago from my POLARIS dealer.

PART # 2201519-A

Try another dealer

 

[cgtootall]

What are your suggestions about belt deflection?

 

[Kraven]

What are your suggestions about belt deflection?

I end up running mine a little tighter than the 1 1/4" POLARIS spec.

I focus on getting the engine c/c perfect,

then close up the secondary as much as possible to get the belt as high as possible, (for a better holeshot)

without the sled "creeping" forward at idle

 

[Polaris7208]

PC-5 Vs PC-3

I have a 2008 700 switchback, and am looking to buy a power commander. Now your first post you said to buy the pc-5 but when i look up the right part for my sled it says to purchase the pc-3. I was wondering if dynotech had research being able to run the pc-5 on my sled or you were stating that just for newer models.

Thanks

 

[volcano buster]

Any reason to run one on a 2010 600?

 

[dynotechjim]

PCV's can add power to any 600,700 or 800 CFI4 engines. All the dyno-tuned test numbers on my website will be duplicated with PCVs we ship out, with the map needed to achieve those HP readings for stock or any other exhaust listed in each dyno session preloaded. So just plug and go. Also all of these sleds now make more HP at 90F than they do at 120F and lose big at 140F plus. so one project we are working on this fall is to increase coolant velocity to allow cooler operation for more power and greater resistance to deto. I have new dyno equipment to measure coolant flow, and we have Boyesen billet coolant pump impellers/ tstat housings etc to try.

 

[lewi101]

I Have an 07 iq 600 cfi i was wondering if ne one can gimme some sugestions on what to run the clutching and gearing i just aquired an slp pipe and can and im going to put an 1 3/4 track with 96 studs possibaly titanium and am looking for good bottom end power for ditch riding and not to loose to much top end speed any suggestions would be appreciated

 

[MORSNO]

I Have an 07 iq 600 cfi i was wondering if ne one can gimme some sugestions on what to run the clutching and gearing i just aquired an slp pipe and can and im going to put an 1 3/4 track with 96 studs possibaly titanium and am looking for good bottom end power for ditch riding and not to loose to much top end speed any suggestions would be appreciated

You do know that this is mountain riding forum right (titanium studs)? Clutching will vary by riding location (altitude), current gearing, etc, which you did not give us.

Where the heck did you go to school? That is one long sentence filled with misspellings and slang!

 

[lewi101]

i had a couple of beer before writing this but im 0-2000 altitude and im sorry about posting this on a mountain forum but the sled is stock and i am sure someone has some suggestions

 

[Kraven]

CHAIN TENSIONER UPGRADE

When you get tired of that factory installed plastic "rubbing block" (chain tensioner) wearing, and the plastic residue turns your chain-case oil into a sludge-like mess, consider this option:

Install an ALUMINUM mounted STEEL ROLLER TENSIONER (with a REAL bearing in it) from a 2005 sled, it's a DIRECT BOLT-IN, NO MODS REQUIRED.

POLARIS part # 1341437

It's about $ 40.00, and NO other mods req'd, even the same adjuster bolt still works, it's a direct bolt-in!

 

[PaulAnd]

SLP revised their clutch alignment tool specs for the 20-191 tool.
2006-10 IQ
belt defection @ 1.25
.085 at front of tool and secondary
.175 at rear of tool and secondary.
that makes the offset .090
.020-.040 freeplay
slp tech. said to check offset pull the secondary toward the tool

My 2010 Assault spec. SLP tool 20-191.
front.101
rear.204
total offset .103
freeplay .050
No belt issues at all.. first belt lasted 1200 miles, only changed it for a fresh belt, I tried to adjust offset.. its the best I could get without doing Kravens mount mod.

 

[LoudHandle]

Replacement Tensioner from the IQR's; Bomb Proof!

When you get tired of that chain tensioner "rubbing block" wearing, and the plastic residue turns your chain-case oil into a sludge-like mess, consider this option:

Install a ROLLER TENSIONER from a 2005 sled, it's a DIRECT BOLT-IN, NO MODS REQUIRED.

POLARIS part # 1341437

It's about $ 40.00, and NO other mods req'd, even the same adjuster bolt still works, it's a direct bolt-in!

Or an even more bullet proof option is the IQR tensioner Part #1332266, which is still an aluminum mounted steel roller as opposed to the plastic mounted one as listed above. It is also listed as about $5 cheaper than the above plastic mounted one. In the extreme cold I have seen the plastic mounts shatter and you are left with a soft spot in your drive train, and the noise is like fingernails on the chalk board, you know it can't be doing anything any favors in the chain case. I always carry an extra in my tool bag for those that haven't upgraded yet. It is a quick and easy fix and saves you towing the sled out or ruining a day of riding. Ride on!

 

[Kraven]

Or an even more bullet proof option is the IQR tensioner Part #1332266, which is still an aluminum mounted steel roller as opposed to the plastic mounted one as listed above. It is also listed as about $5 cheaper than the above plastic mounted one. In the extreme cold I have seen the plastic mounts shatter and you are left with a soft spot in your drive train, and the noise is like fingernails on the chalk board, you know it can't be doing anything any favors in the chain case. I always carry an extra in my tool bag for those that haven't upgraded yet. It is a quick and easy fix and saves you towing the sled out or ruining a day of riding. Ride on!

I wonder if it's superseded ???? because the part # I posted is an ALUMINUM mounted steel roller, (or at least the one I have is and that part # was on the package)

Thanks for pointing it out.

 

[LoudHandle]

I wonder if it's superseded ???? because the part # I posted is an ALUMINUM mounted steel roller, (or at least the one I have is and that part # was on the package)

Thanks for pointing it out.

Kraven, Sorry for assuming that that part number was the plastic mounted one, there are thousands of sleds out there from '06 to '10 at least with either the plastic slider or the plastic mounted roller that are destined for failure at the most inopportune time. They may well have superseded the factory production line installed tensioner for the one you posted. I know the IQR tensioner also works as that is what I have had laying around when the need arose, the only difference is likely the wider roller for the IQR's 7/8" wide chain verses the rest being the 3/4" HYVO, when they went slipper gears and then slipper drivers the IQR's retained the wide roller even though they went back to the 3/4" wide HYVO. In essence either part number will be 100 times better than the stock plastic crap.

 

[Rigs]

2009 600 IQ

What do u gain by putting in the derlin washer ?

 

[Rigs]

2009 600 IQ

Closing off the power valve lines helps them open up faster?

 

[Rigs]

What do u gain from putting in the derlin washer?

 

[Maverick83]

Beeler,

Emmissions is the reason for the purge line and solenoid. That delays the opening of the exhaust valves.

Easiest way to plug 'em is to remove the "T" and replace it with a 5/16" bolt 2" long w/head cut off, clamp in place, done. Wrap/wire tie the leftover hose leading to the solenoid, as the opposite end vents to the atmosphere into the front hood area.

Do NOT disconnect the wires leading to the solenoid, that will create an error message to pop up.

Always E-Z to return to emmissions compliant if need be, trade in, resale, etc.

Wouldn't you want to have a hose connecting both exhaust valves so they receive the equal pressure and open at the same time? If they are capped and separated from one another, they could possibly open at different times?

A little off subject but close, i had a 125cc rotax race kart years ago that had an adjustable power valve, you could put tension on the spring to make the valve open later or back it off to make it open sooner. Just food for thought......