Has anyone done it? seems like it would be a more solid drive system than just a key.
Taper-Lock drive for older Timbersled?
- Thread starter suva
- Start date
taper loc
I tried to find a setup that would work when I was building some kits from the ground up 4 years ago.
If you read through the Swedish sno bike builders thread they started with a meteric version of taper lock to hold sprockets. Had to jettison that setup eventually, I can't remember just what issue they had, but read their original thread, might give you some insight into what the problem was.
I tried to find a setup that would work when I was building some kits from the ground up 4 years ago.
If you read through the Swedish sno bike builders thread they started with a meteric version of taper lock to hold sprockets. Had to jettison that setup eventually, I can't remember just what issue they had, but read their original thread, might give you some insight into what the problem was.
Try a bearing distributor , I was just looking at them a couple of weeks ago when I ordered the clutch discs for the secondary blower belt . Ask them for MORSE in a Browning catalog if I remember correctly , there's a relation but the names should get you what you looking for . They are common in a lot of different commercial applications .
I've used taper lock sprockets on garage built machines. I don't see why a person couldn't use one on a Timbersled. You would need to modify the spacers on the jackshaft though. I almost went this route about a month ago when I needed to swap a sprocket. I still may go this route down the road on this machine.
That being said, the newer style lock washer that Timbersled uses to hold the sprockets on is pretty slick. Good luck getting some though since Polaris took over the parts distribution.
That being said, the newer style lock washer that Timbersled uses to hold the sprockets on is pretty slick. Good luck getting some though since Polaris took over the parts distribution.
Even with the lock washer I'm having to re-torque the sprocket bolts, mainly the lower one.
tight
next time you have to tighten your lower bolt, take it off and look at the end of your drive shaft and look for fatigue crack from keyway down into the threads, if its cracked, thats why the bolts come loose, eventually the shaft will break or your sproket will break, best to upgrade then to splined shaft. been there, 4 broken shafts in the shop, chit happens.
next time you have to tighten your lower bolt, take it off and look at the end of your drive shaft and look for fatigue crack from keyway down into the threads, if its cracked, thats why the bolts come loose, eventually the shaft will break or your sproket will break, best to upgrade then to splined shaft. been there, 4 broken shafts in the shop, chit happens.
That's what happened to my last driveshaft. With a new shaft and bolt I still need to re-torque regularly. The bolts are turning an additional few degrees after the first couple times now. I think the spacers are mushrooming and I think the sprockets not being an interference fit is contributing to the issue.
I run 3 - 3/16 keys threaded end of shaft and run a nut no more problems