Does any know the steps on removing the swaybar?
Swaybar removal
- Thread starter mattdoo700
- Start date
easy... grab a grinding wheel and start cutting!!! You won't need it after so out she comes! Grind the area where it turns straight through the belly pan so you can slide it straight through and the pull out the short sections attached to the trailing arm... 10 minutes tops!
took everything apart and removed things the cival way and used a couple of 2 hole straps for conduit and secured them up out of the way so If I ever sell the sled I can put them back on or at least give all the parts to the new owner
Does removing the sway bar help that much? what are the pro's and con's?
Oh yeah! it helps, made mine feel like a freakin' 2-moto! haha, it's helps a ton with sidehilling, just add a bit more preload to your front shocks so that the trail isn't so bad, I didn't, it is hell down the trail, but I honestly don't go that fast down the trail anyways.
S
Sasksummit
Member
I took the sway bar out of my boys 06 on the weekend without grinding it. It still only took 15 mins. The only trick is to take vise grips and pull the plastic piece of one end of the bar. Then just wiggle it around and it slides right out.
SO no cuting or removal of anything? and the sway bar just come's out in one piece.
YEah, drill the two rivets out of each of the plastic bushings in the bulkhead, and enough wiggling and moving around it should come out. Might help if you tip the sled on it's side to unload the front suspension too.
ahhhh... come on! Let the guy get some grinding action going on! Way more fun than drilling a few rivets out!!!
F
FNG
Active member
I just did this yesterday on my 01 Summit 700, sure you can cut it out but why? It’s pretty easy to pull intact.
Pull rear attachment on trailing arms where they attach near running boards (6mm allen)
Grab one trailing arm and ski tail and pull away from sled, this pops end of sway bar out of retaining bracket, repeat on other side. The sway bar should now be hanging free.
Grind off the rivet heads from the plastic bracket with Dremel tool and slide plastic brackets off of bar. I tried to drill em out first but they spun so the Dremel worked better for me. A nice long punch helps to push out the rivet bodies once the heads are ground off but you could probably use a nail or the tange of a file to push the rivet bodies back into the sled. I also used a small magnet on a little extender wand that I picked up for a couple of bucks somewhere to fish the rivit bodies back out of my engine compartment but that may not be necessary it was just easy to do, so I did it.
Check if some of the wiring harness was zip tied to your sway bar under the engine, by wiggling and sliding the sway bar and seeing how freely it moves and if any of the wiring moves with it, mine was zip tied so I had to pull the exhaust to be able to clip the zip tie but apparently some aren’t.
Once that’s done I just pushed the sway bar in from the riders left side, smacked the end of the bar with a dead blow hammer a couple of times to get it past that first bend (the hang up spot), and then it slid right out. The whole process took about 30 - 45 min and grinding the rivets took more time than any other part.
Fill/plug the hole in any way that you choose.
Re-attach your trailing arms and you’re done!
Pull rear attachment on trailing arms where they attach near running boards (6mm allen)
Grab one trailing arm and ski tail and pull away from sled, this pops end of sway bar out of retaining bracket, repeat on other side. The sway bar should now be hanging free.
Grind off the rivet heads from the plastic bracket with Dremel tool and slide plastic brackets off of bar. I tried to drill em out first but they spun so the Dremel worked better for me. A nice long punch helps to push out the rivet bodies once the heads are ground off but you could probably use a nail or the tange of a file to push the rivet bodies back into the sled. I also used a small magnet on a little extender wand that I picked up for a couple of bucks somewhere to fish the rivit bodies back out of my engine compartment but that may not be necessary it was just easy to do, so I did it.
Check if some of the wiring harness was zip tied to your sway bar under the engine, by wiggling and sliding the sway bar and seeing how freely it moves and if any of the wiring moves with it, mine was zip tied so I had to pull the exhaust to be able to clip the zip tie but apparently some aren’t.
Once that’s done I just pushed the sway bar in from the riders left side, smacked the end of the bar with a dead blow hammer a couple of times to get it past that first bend (the hang up spot), and then it slid right out. The whole process took about 30 - 45 min and grinding the rivets took more time than any other part.
Fill/plug the hole in any way that you choose.
Re-attach your trailing arms and you’re done
!
S
Sasksummit
Member
Ya i tipped it on the side it comes out real easy. I didn't even remove the rivets. Just take the blocks off the A arm and the 4 bolts that hold it to the sled and out she comes.
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half of mine fell out in the hills some where....the other half came out easy when i drilled out the rivets...just drill out both sides and start wiggling...
....the other half came out easy when i drilled out the rivets...just drill out both sides and start wiggling...I have a 2003 mxz rev chassis, is it just as easy to get the swaybar out on the rev chassis? Thanks.
sway bar
Yes its just as easy if not easier on the newer frame
definatly a difference on the trail but not a big problem
you just need to be a bit more aggressive with it at speed
on the trail
youll love it for laying over or sidehilling
have fun
Yes its just as easy if not easier on the newer frame
definatly a difference on the trail but not a big problem
you just need to be a bit more aggressive with it at speed
on the trail
youll love it for laying over or sidehilling
have fun
I had to drill out all the rivet and then the sway bar came out pretty easy. Thanks to all that replyed it helped out a bunch. Cant wait to see what the difference it is going to be side hilling.
Myself I've rode Ab's Zx and farmer's zx's they both have the sway bar out, I've left mine in and don't really see the need of removing it, short of losing the 5lbs that they weigh. And if I'm worried about 5 lbs, I could probably lose that
LMAO... true and funny! Same could be said for all of us!
no swaybar
does not having a swaybar effect jumping or hitting bumps on angle what are some pros and cons besides sidehilling
does not having a swaybar effect jumping or hitting bumps on angle what are some pros and cons besides sidehilling
The only thing i noticed when i took sway bar off my 02 summit was alittle more tippy in the corners at high speeds, and way easier to side hill and play in the steep and deep.
