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sway bar???????????

wtf, why would you want to couple your independent front end???????? might as well put a straight axle in and call it good;) hope they haven't calibrated the shocks to only run with the thing hooked up. anyone had a chance to unhook it and test the shocks? not interested in keeping my ski lift down on the trails, more interested in being able to roll my sled up on its side without fighting 2 shocks instead of one!!!
also noticed the dump for the can is on the very bottom of the sled??? last sled i had with this setup was a mt. cat and it would bog something fierce if you rolled it up on the right in pow, anyone actually got to ride theirs and see if this is going to be a problem? the gaurd should help push the snow away but in the deeper stuff...
 
wtf, why would you want to couple your independent front end???????? might as well put a straight axle in and call it good;) hope they haven't calibrated the shocks to only run with the thing hooked up. anyone had a chance to unhook it and test the shocks? not interested in keeping my ski lift down on the trails, more interested in being able to roll my sled up on its side without fighting 2 shocks instead of one!!!
also noticed the dump for the can is on the very bottom of the sled??? last sled i had with this setup was a mt. cat and it would bog something fierce if you rolled it up on the right in pow, anyone actually got to ride theirs and see if this is going to be a problem? the gaurd should help push the snow away but in the deeper stuff...


Yawn........
 
Here is the thing...

When you are "roll my sled up on its side" you are NOT trying to compress your shock to do it... It is a common preception that you need to compress the shock to do it.

Much to the contrary.... you want to keep the front end stiff enough to preserve shock travel so that when you do encounter a lump/bump/terrain, you still have travel remaining in the shock.

I put PLENTY of seat time in the mountains on the new chassis and it was not left lacking in the front suspension/sway-bar department.

Lets just say... this is not a mountain cat... no problems here or with thousands of IQ/XP/REV owners out there....in terms of exhaust outlet. Nor were any of the hundreds of demo riders having problems with the new Pro's
 
if the shock did not compress when you roll the center of gravity would remain higher thus requiring more effort to roll the sled. you'll also be loosing some of the secure feeling a mt. rider is looking for. the feeling the sled wants to stay on its side not roll back flat like an xp. also with the shock compressing isn't it giving the ski more of a correct angle to make the sled want to stay on its side. from mt cats to revs, have never seen a sled that didn't roll better without the sway bar. fighting 2 shocks to get my sled to dip so it will roll on its side easier just makes no sense to me, and when you try and roll your sled that is what you are doing, compressing the one side shock enough to stop the suspension travel to get the chassis to begin to roll instead of just the suspension. coupleing the front reduces the shocks ease of travel thus requiring more effort from the rider to roll the sled. and all the time your up on one ski both shocks are then trying to push the sled level again. don't mean to step on any ones toes just stating what i've observed in the past. maybe they've got it set up so you won't notice, i guess time will tell how many are left hooked or unhooked:)
 
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chris burandt's take on the sway bar was simple, when he rode cat he said he wasn't a sway bar guy, now that he's on the pro he said the sled handles better side hills with the sway bar. he's paid to endorse the sled, but not the sway bar. ride it and see how it works, if you know something chris burandt don't, start your own riding adventure and make millions.
 
so since he wasn't on a sled with a sway bar before it was ok not to have one, but now that he rides a sled with one its the way to go? geeze imagine if he'd only know that years ago...
 
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so since he wasn't on a sled with a sway bar before it was ok not to have one, but now that he rides a sled with one its the way to go? geeze imagine if he'd only know that years ago...
is he riding the same sled now? did the chassis change? maybe these factors play into his decision. he didn't ride with a sway bar on his IQ's. huh, wonder what has changed, maybe my statement about riding it first could play into things a little here?
 
i'm coming of an M sled also so will find out as soon as the snow flies, not trying to knock this sled. wouldn't have bought it if i didn't think it was the bees knees...
 
i'm coming of an M sled also so will find out as soon as the snow flies, not trying to knock this sled. wouldn't have bought it if i didn't think it was the bees knees...

i hope it works as good as everyone says it does, it was 70 degrees here all weekend, so mine is still sitting in the garage.
 
When you are "roll my sled up on its side" you are NOT trying to compress your shock to do it... It is a common preception that you need to compress the shock to do it.

Much to the contrary.... you want to keep the front end stiff enough to preserve shock travel so that when you do encounter a lump/bump/terrain, you still have travel remaining in the shock.

Exactly! Why do you think you saw so many complaints about the soft Walker Evans Air shocks from the factory? You need your front suspension to be able to travel while running up on it's side. If soft and mushy was the way to go, those shocks would be worth thousands!!!
 
This is a very good topic, but only time on the snow will provide more data. So far, all the test rides on the Pro RMK had the bar in, and peeps were raving about the flickability. FWIW, the RMK Assault has not stab bar, and the shocks are calibrated for this.

My experiences are the same - no stab bar is easier to roll, tho I've always increased spring rates to avoid the bottoming on one ski hits, ending up in the middle, while making it easier to change direction on a sidehill without the bar. I understand why the RMK Assault does not have the bar, and it would seem easier, and cheaper, for the Pro RMK to leave it out, too. I haven't read a single good explanation on why the borrowed spring rate is a good thing on the Pro, and Burandt schilling means nothing. Perhaps it just doesn't need it with the other inherent chassis characteristics, and with shorter a-arms on the Pro than the RMK Assault, the borrowed spring rate provides a better cornering sled on the trails. Which means, many of us will be trying it with the bar unhooked. Another aftermarket opportunity for a quick disconnect.
 
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