Suspension Setup

[19 Hundo]

Before you hackle I did read all post pertaining to this issue. However I am still a little confused, because the same poster will contradict themselves in different posts.

I bought a pro-rmk 800 163 and noticed that is was bottoming Sat, so when I got home I compressed the RTS about 3 to 4 full turns and noticed sunday the sled didn't handle for ****. Sorry for the dumb questions I am bout to hit you all with, but never owned a sled that I can go to town on with a beer and spanner wrench.

You say cranking down, do you mean compressing the spring more or loosening it??
Where is a good starting point, i.e.. number of threads showing of distance from the lowest thread to the bottom if the spring cup, or end to end of the spring measurment??
I know its all individual preference, if I can get a good starting point I can figure it out from there.
I don't mind a little wheelie, but want to minimize bottoming out and trenching.
Sorry just a novice trying to learn...thanks for the help.

 

[19 Hundo]

Anybody

 

[Pro-8250]

I'm with you. I have the same concerns as you do. I would like to learn more about setting up the suspension. I too was told to crank down on the spring and loosen up on the coil overs on the front shocks because I was having more trouble out west leaning into a 180 with my 163" as opposed to my 155" I know it's been said that it is all personal preference but it's hard to do all this adjusting at home when there is only three inches of snow outside.
Does anyone know if there is some sort of starting point for sled set up as far as a persons height or weight?
Like 19 Hundo says, anybody?

 

[pura vida]

more than likely you will get as many different answers as you will post for this question. my best suggestion would be to call one of the suspension companies, i really like holz, and explain to them what you are experiencing, what you are trying to get, and let them give you a base line. they have a lot more experience than the average dude on snowest. good luck

pv

 

[tdblakes]

start from factory spec and go from there.

Tightening up the rear track spring will add ski pressure and reduce weight transfer which means less wheelies. Loosening it up does the opposite.

The front track spring is a blance point. The tighter it is, the more tippy your sled will feel, but it will also trench a bit more because its not being allowed to walk up onto the snow. Loosen the front track shock to allow the skid to "flow" up on top of the snow better, but your sled will also feel more planted.

The front suspension springs resist bottoming out obviously and resist tipping the sled over.

generally speaking, for best deep snow climbing you want all your springs as loose as you can go without bottoming out or doing too big of a wheelie up a steep climb.

I like how my factory settings feel on my Assault so far. It did wheelie quite a bit so I just moved the front of the skid up into the upper mounting hole in the tunnel (where the Pro RMK comes stock) to help with that. If the sled feels too planted now, I'll just tighten up my front track spring until I find the happy medium for balance and trenching for me...

This is how I understand it, if I'm wrong please feel free to correct me anyone.
my .02

 

[tdblakes]

more than likely you will get as many different answers as you will post for this question. my best suggestion would be to call one of the suspension companies, i really like holz, and explain to them what you are experiencing, what you are trying to get, and let them give you a base line. they have a lot more experience than the average dude on snowest. good luck

pv

X2.

Prob the best way to get a direct correct answer. Talk to Holz on the phone and ask all the questions you can... the pro rmk skid is essentially a Holz

 

[RMK935VA]

One of the best modifications that you can make to an 11 or 12 Pro is having Carl's revalve the shocks with their proven kit. While they are at it, they will set it up for your weight and riding style. I had it done to my 11 163 Pro. It makes a world of difference and is a lot cheaper than buying new shocks. My wife has a stock 12 600 Pro and the shock revalving is very noticeable when you go from the modified sled and back to the stock one. The modified sled is vastly better in all circumstances and snow conditions as far as I can tell.

 

[Dartos]

I do not own a pro (still on a 900 RMK) Here is my idea if you can't get some first first hand knowledge.

Go to a place where you have some powder in the flat and a hill near.

Set the rear spring as soft as you can get it and do some turns in the flat and then do some climbs straight and climbs turning.

Now go set it as tight as it can go. Redo the previous runs in powder (don't drive in your previous track). At this point you should be able to tell what it is doing at the 2 extremes. What this does in my opinion is tell you, at the limits of adjustment, what the changes do to the ride and handling.

Now you should put it at the mid point of adjustment and do the same process with the front track shock that you just did with the rear and see what that does.

Now you could go to each shock and do the same process at the mid point of adjustment.

This will give you a good baseline to see where you want to make small adjustments.

If your not into doing some testing like that then someone on here will have to chime in and give some specific direction.

Some of the experts may correct me but in general I try to set up my suspension with the front track shock spring just stiff enough so it doesn't bottom out. I set the rear much stiffer, in relation to the front. My theory is that allows the front to crawl up on the snow quicker and better react to the terrain. The rear needs to be stiffer so it doesn't collapse while more weight is on it in a climb. I have found, on my sled, there does come a point when the rear is to stiff it will not react well to the snow and just digs down - Trenching.

Hope this helps a bit.

Good Luck,
Dartos

 

[Skeld]

I have a hard time telling when my FTS is bottoming. I don't think I have bottomed the rear at all but I think I may bottom the front from time to time. Maybe I should put a zip tie on the shock shaft if that wouldn't cause any damage to do so.

 

[Dartos]

When a big boy rides a whooped out single wide trail (path) into a riding area I use to bottom out often. Now I have heavier springs installed.

 

[FatDogX]

This is really good info!

Pretty much what I have followed but have had limited time on the snow for fine tuning.

I think starting with your rear track shock is the best place to start. Get that set so your so your using most of the travel but not bottoming it out. From there move the the front track shock and follow the advice below. For most "powder" riding applications, run things as loose as you can.

I think the best thing is just don't be afraid to start making adjustments here and there but just remember to do one adjustment at at time so you know what's actually working.

start from factory spec and go from there.

Tightening up the rear track spring will add ski pressure and reduce weight transfer which means less wheelies. Loosening it up does the opposite.

The front track spring is a blance point. The tighter it is, the more tippy your sled will feel, but it will also trench a bit more because its not being allowed to walk up onto the snow. Loosen the front track shock to allow the skid to "flow" up on top of the snow better, but your sled will also feel more planted.

The front suspension springs resist bottoming out obviously and resist tipping the sled over.

generally speaking, for best deep snow climbing you want all your springs as loose as you can go without bottoming out or doing too big of a wheelie up a steep climb.

I like how my factory settings feel on my Assault so far. It did wheelie quite a bit so I just moved the front of the skid up into the upper mounting hole in the tunnel (where the Pro RMK comes stock) to help with that. If the sled feels too planted now, I'll just tighten up my front track spring until I find the happy medium for balance and trenching for me...

This is how I understand it, if I'm wrong please feel free to correct me anyone.
my .02

 

[ChillyKen]

In looking at the article in the Polaris manual called "Perfect Fit"; it has a chart giving you an idea of where your preload setting should be according to your weight. Should this measurement be taken with the skid in the air at maximum shock extension; or sitting on the ground with the weight of the sled sprung? I'm 220 and my preload should be set at 10 1/8" max, but unsprung with the skid hanging it is at 10 1/2" from the dealer. My sled "feels" front heavy. It doesn't really wheelie much at all unless I am really pulling hard off a roller or ledge. And it does resist leaning ,carving, and sidehilling

 

[theultrarider]

In looking at the article in the Polaris manual called "Perfect Fit"; it has a chart giving you an idea of where your preload setting should be according to your weight. Should this measurement be taken with the skid in the air at maximum shock extension; or sitting on the ground with the weight of the sled sprung? I'm 220 and my preload should be set at 10 1/8" max, but unsprung with the skid hanging it is at 10 1/2" from the dealer. My sled "feels" front heavy. It doesn't really wheelie much at all unless I am really pulling hard off a roller or ledge. And it does resist leaning ,carving, and sidehilling

Tighten up your front track shock and that will get some of the weight off of your skis allowing the front end to come up easier. That in turn will also make the sled easier to lay over. Also back your ski shocks off as loose as you can without bottoming. This is huge for getting the sled to lay over easily.

 

[Demo250]

In looking at the article in the Polaris manual called "Perfect Fit"; it has a chart giving you an idea of where your preload setting should be according to your weight. Should this measurement be taken with the skid in the air at maximum shock extension; or sitting on the ground with the weight of the sled sprung? I'm 220 and my preload should be set at 10 1/8" max, but unsprung with the skid hanging it is at 10 1/2" from the dealer. My sled "feels" front heavy. It doesn't really wheelie much at all unless I am really pulling hard off a roller or ledge. And it does resist leaning ,carving, and sidehilling

All measurements should be taken with all weight off the spring.

If it feels too front heavy you can tighten the FTS to reduce ski pressure. Loosening the front suspension a bit will help it roll up on edge. Loosening the rear track shock a bit will also reduce ski pressure. Loosening the rear will make it wheelie more though.

Edit: ultra beat me to it. lol

 

[FatDogX]

Take the measurement with the the suspension elevated and the shock extended.

X2 on if you want more ski lift, give that front shock 1 1/2 to 2 turns to start off with.

In looking at the article in the Polaris manual called "Perfect Fit"; it has a chart giving you an idea of where your preload setting should be according to your weight. Should this measurement be taken with the skid in the air at maximum shock extension; or sitting on the ground with the weight of the sled sprung? I'm 220 and my preload should be set at 10 1/8" max, but unsprung with the skid hanging it is at 10 1/2" from the dealer. My sled "feels" front heavy. It doesn't really wheelie much at all unless I am really pulling hard off a roller or ledge. And it does resist leaning ,carving, and sidehilling

 

[06redrevx]

If you are much over 200 pounds you may want to run the heavier Polaris springs to reduce bottoming out.

I run my FTS about two turns more compressed and loosen the front shocks about two turns, also moved my handle bar location back just a tad from vertical. All this seems to help the sled lay over much nicer.

Good luck

 

[winter brew]

Anyone put an adjustable limiter strap on these things? What were they thinking there?

 

[rmk2112]

There's some helpful info on the subject here as well....

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=293375

 

[Ken Climb]

Has the easily bottoming suspension been addressed on the 2013's?
I tried a 2011 pro, loved the way it handled in the pow, but I was bottoming the rear susp out in 2' of pow. I'm 180lbs.
In our local riding area, We have to ride alot of trail before we get to our alpine.
How are these pro's on the trail?
Also how do you pack gas. I heard the tunnel's not strong enough to pack fuel?

 

[Matte Murder]

Part of the problem with the stock Pro is you are stuck with non-adjustable shocks. You can't really tune a suspension just with springs. I had Holz revalve and put the piggy back adjustable reservoirs on my 2012 163. I have found that running the springs soft everywhere but maybe the front track shock and using the compression(bump) adjusters works well. I am a pretty big guy, 220 in shorts but prolly 250 with all my gear and avy vest. Had the front shocks on full soft up front and it didn't want to carve and turn. Just wanted to lay over and keep going straight downhill. Tried 3 clicks up from full soft and was better, 2 more clicks even better so settle on 5 clicks up. I have a quick disconnect on the sway bar but usually run it hooked up. If un hooked I need to really stiffen the compression on the shocks and it gets kinda harsh.