Suspension Help Needed Pls. Previous XP Rider

[redrock1]

I have read almost all of the posts regarding set up and it is really all over the board. I could really use some help or advice setting my Pro RMK 800 (non assault) by you guys that have put some miles on and done some testing. I am #220 with gear on. Please advise me on the following.

Ski width:
Front shock pressure / set up:
Rear skid / limiter setting:
Rear shock set up:

Any help would be awesome as I do not have ANY time on a Polaris.

Thanks

 

[dub]

I am about the same weight as you... Try this:

Skis in middle position
Rear track shock 10.125-10.25 You want the rear set stiff. Go 10.25, I am about 20 lbs heavier with gear.
Front track shock about 5 threads left (loose)
Front shocks start loose and tightend until they just stop bottoming.

 

[gman086]

Most everyone with a Pro is having to increase the center shock preload a lot more than 5 threads (not the case with the Assaults as they're front arms are 1" lower). Try 12-13 threads showing; sled will handle a LOT quicker. The rest of Dub's post are good suggestions. Also there is no limiter adjustment on these.

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[Ask Yourself]

I'm 195# loaded up with gear and when I had my stock shocks I had the center shock about three threads or 8.5" spring end to spring end with all weight off of the shocks and I was right at 10-3/8 with the rear spring end to spring end. Fronts right at 10-1/4 and skis in the narrowest postion. This worked for me but I have a friend that weights alot more and we turned up the rear spring 4 turns and its working good for him there, the rest the same. I would always bottom out and even blew the front springs out of the bottom keepers so I bought holz piggyback shocks on all 4 springs and now it's like floating on clouds when I ride.. This sled is Killer....

 

[majhano]

i agree with the previous post. the front track shock needs about 13 threads showing (about an inch) so that you get a good pivot and it stops the trenching.

 

[Ask Yourself]

Wow, if I cranked up my front track shock that much I would be pointed at the sky all day long. The more front track shock spring presure the faster it transfers to the rear and the more it would want to ride on the rear of the track and not let the track climb on top with more surface area of the front of the track. I'm just not seeing this right or something. I talked to Mark at Holz before I bought his upgrades for the WE shocks to make sure I was getting everything out of my stock shocks and wasn't waistin money on nothing. So, I will tell ya the set-up he gave me for the stock shocks is go loose and start tighten up from there and after that, and I found the sweet spot on the stock shocks I also found I was bottoming out alot. So I took the plunge and put his upgrade piggybacks on all four and let me tell ya this sled just floats on the snow, hard or big pow.. Gets on top of the snow even better then with the stock set-up. All with the stock springs in the same setting as I had before.. So thats my take on it but if I'm way off in left field somewhere please bring me back to home plate cuz I have missing the boat completely...

 

[gman086]

Whatever works for you. Mine had zero and I mean ZERO weight transfer before cranking down the center shock. I weigh 175. Maybe we got shorter straps than you got? Or you're on an Assault? With the center shock that loose you'd be bottoming out all day and the attack angle is already shallow because of the tight straps and curvature of the rails!

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[RZRNUT]

I have 2 pro 163s i'm 210lbs plus gear my son is very light. we both like our sleds set up the same. Tighten the front track shock all the way.
tighten the rear shock about 5 turns. They do not wheelie and are much more nimble and easier to get on their side. Also get the HPS can saves7lbs
and adds about 150 rpms

 

[Flange509]

Whats the stock setting on the front track shock. Dealer set mine for my weight and it trenches more than the demo sleds did. Manual says to adjust only the rear shock for weight.
I wanna go back to factory settings and try again.

 

[gman086]

Whats the stock setting on the front track shock. Dealer set mine for my weight and it trenches more than the demo sleds did. Manual says to adjust only the rear shock for weight.
I wanna go back to factory settings and try again.

Mine came with 3-4 threads showing and I thought the Pro absolutely SUCKED when I first got it; very disappointed until I cranked down the front track shock and got the handling back where it needed to be.

The guys that are pulling skis with little front track shock tension... I really am wondering if there is a longer strap for flatlanders? Wouldn't be the first time there were different parts for what part of the continent you're in!

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[majhano]

agree 1000%!!!!!! i had about 5 threads on the front track shock showing and was not impressed. cranked her down for about an inch of threads and is like nite and day better.

 

[B2]

I'm 195# loaded up with gear and when I had my stock shocks I had the center shock about three threads or 8.5" spring end to spring end with all weight off of the shocks and I was right at 10-3/8 with the rear spring end to spring end. Fronts right at 10-1/4 and skis in the narrowest postion. This worked for me but I have a friend that weights alot more and we turned up the rear spring 4 turns and its working good for him there, the rest the same. I would always bottom out and even blew the front springs out of the bottom keepers so I bought holz piggyback shocks on all 4 springs and now it's like floating on clouds when I ride.. This sled is Killer....

Same issue here. I can get a setup I like but will still bottom at will. Are the piggyback shocks you mention a whole new shock, or are they re-valving your stock shocks and adding a remote reservoir?

 

[08Alaska800]

ttt