Suspension/flotation

[miko700]

Hey guys had a question regarding track shocks and layout....this summer have a bout a grand to put into my ride for improvements and am looking to change the rear shock and alter rear suspension a bit....(06 700 151 track I am 185 pounds and a leo) the sled all and all works just fine for me through all aspects of riding but I would like to focus on maximizing the flotation and transfer of the track. (yes, i know shes heavy and throttle is my friend) I have already ported the stock track and moved the bottom scissor back 3/4 of an inch and have messed with my limiter strap a bit. summing it up im just asking if any of you powder hounds have hit a combination that u really like. Like savin my juice for diggin out my friends and takin pictures of them ...lol

 

[mountainhorse]

Keep your eyes peeled for a timbersled skid used... best flotation and will drop a good 15 lbs from the sled.

Better than stock geometry.

Shocks alone will not "float" your sled any better.

My 2 cents.

 

[sw]

Yes I agree the T-sled skid is a good one, 1000$ or less budget is tough to negotiate on rear skid makeover though! One thing my experience has showed me (usually with some pain associated) is that, what I thought where a suspension upgrade was needed, turned out to be existing suspension wasn't working properly to begin with. Seems I prefer to learn the hard way...& I'm not even a Leo! So with budget in mind, start with what you have, take it out and apart, check front/rear torque arms are not bent, operating smoothly, shocks are in fact working-dampening compression and rebound. Rails perfectly straight, fairly even hyfax wear, bearings operating smoothly etc. From there, deep powder set-up (for me) equals a fairly soft suspension with good amount of transfer. With that, the money should find a way to disappear, and if not-all the better for you!

 

[mountainhorse]

SW makes some awesome points!!

Most people I've seen either dont lube the rear skid or they dont use the right grease that does not turn into glue at lower temps.

The stock skid has no bushings on the pivot points... aluminum rod in steel tube. I like to use only redline CV-2 grease and keep it in a separate grease gun. You will be amazed at how dirty and probably ovalized the shafts are.

If you look over the summer you should be able to find a late model T-sled rear for a grand

 

[Z-Man]

I have to side with Mountainhorse on this. Check through the main swapmeet, there were a couple Timbersled suspensions for sale in there. The 15 lb weight drop is nice but the sled is a completely different machine with the mountain tamer on it. Even if you have to dig deep and pay a little more than you wanted to you will not be disappointed. You may even find one in your budget, we got one for around 600 off ebay for Sean's sled a couple months ago and the best deals on sled parts are always over the summer. If you can find one there are quite a few of us that have them and can help you out. The guys at Timbersled are second to none when it comes to customer service and they have all the install info on their website too.

 

[miko700]

Thanks crew, now thats why i love this forum.....its impossible to beat that kinda clear, concise, thought out advice......welp now wheres me tools....

 

[High Velocity]

I also have to agree with MH and Z-man, but add don't pass up a good deal on a used Holz coil-over suspension. That's what I ran in my '06 900 and it was without a doubt one of the best upgrades I did to that sled. With the Holz, my sled got on top of the snow much quicker and rode ten times smoother. You won't regret buying either of the skids mentioned, IMHO.