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Suspenions Guros!! NEEDED

NapaMatt

Matryx 850 Pow Slayer!
Lifetime Membership
Well first off there is going to be alot of PICS!

Sled..

Hand Build From Chassis Up.. Built off of a 2007 Polaris Switchback 144" Frame!

I did this build in 2009..

- bought used Holtz Rear Suspension... W/Fox Floats
-new Polaris 2007 Rear Switchback rails 144"------- This Right here Might be my Problem!!!!


ok ok I'll get one with the Problem! :eek: GRR.. Find out.. Looking at the Rear skid after..idk 500 miles or so..!! The Rear Skid, Rear Fox Float Shock Shaft is Hitting Front A-Arm in rear skid.!! In 3rd Pic u can see!!

So..
The Slop in the Worn Bushing have that much give?

Or Did i drill a hole in the wrong spot?

Not enough air in Shock?


I have Lowered the air all the way out. and ran the suspension all the way up and down.. This way by hand.. Comes Very Close! Doesn't touch! ...First when i found this.. i found two Bolts Loose.. and it touched.!! So i thought i problem would go away.. But i was WRONG!


So Do i Replace all bushing in suspension from Holtz.. On Bench Sliding shaft in Trying side to side slop.. VEry Very Little!! :face-icon-small-sad

or do i drill a New Hole ???:face-icon-small-con

Picture 239.jpg Picture 235.jpg Picture 433.jpg Picture 434.jpg Picture 435.jpg Picture 436.jpg Picture 438.jpg
 
More Pics

Pics..


Second Pic.. Doesn't Matter if it Looks GOOD in the End.. NEED to WORK Right!


Third pic.. is showing Bolt in rear tunnel the front bolt.. in Stock Place!.. Hole was there from factory.

Just some Facts.. i might of left out..
ops!!

Its a 2007 Switchback Tunnel..

W/ Holtz Rear Suspension kit for a RMK!... Holtz.. Never made one for a switchback.. This maybe why... It's not traveling all the way it should.. With out hitting under load!!
 
I should be able to remember this...I've put enough of these together.

First question; is the rear shock bolted in the lowest hole in that gold bracket that is curved?

Second question; (I can't remember) Can the curved gold bracket be relocated towards the front of the sled (so it's lower) in the front arm assy? In that 4th pic I see, there looks like a bolt laying in that hole?? What's that about?

The other thing I'm wondering, if the answer to both of my questions is no, is this skid you bought (holz) for a longer skid say a 151, or 159? That might explain what's going on(??)

As for the Holz skids, I've never seen any that have worn out bushings or anything that's gotten sloppy
 
I should be able to remember this...I've put enough of these together.

First question; is the rear shock bolted in the lowest hole in that gold bracket that is curved?
YES
Second question; (I can't remember) Can the curved gold bracket be relocated towards the front of the sled (so it's lower) in the front arm assy? In that 4th pic I see, there looks like a bolt laying in that hole?? What's that about? OO Ops.. Well i was trying to see if it was hitting.. Basicailly if i had a bolt in that hole. it would act as a stop.. and the Shock shaft wouldn't hit.. Yea it is just sitting there!:face-icon-small-con

The other thing I'm wondering, if the answer to both of my questions is no, is this skid you bought (holz) for a longer skid say a 151, or 159? That might explain what's going on(??) The Skid is for a RMK 144"

As for the Holz skids, I've never seen any that have worn out bushings or anything that's gotten sloppy

Also.. In the Gold Bracket.. Must be Bronze Bushing... Thinking this is were most of the "slopy" is coming from..

In bold..
 
Its a 2007 Switchback Tunnel..

W/ Holtz Rear Suspension kit for a RMK!... Holtz.. Never made one for a switchback.. This maybe why... It's not traveling all the way it should.. With out hitting under load!!

Our suspensions were never intended to mount in a 144, so right away that is going to be giving you problems.
Unless you stretched you tunnel or moved your drop brackets back.....

The reason your shock is hitting the front arm is because the mount locations in the 144 tunnel are much closer together (too close) than that of say a 151, 155 or 163 tunnel.

Please don't try to invent new mount locations. People do this often and then they wonder why nothing works right.
The 'horse shoe pivot' (the gold half-moon shaped thing at the bottom of the rear shock) only has one intended mount hole- you're already there in the lowest/furthest hole, the other holes are only to lighten the part which is why they aren't big enough to run a bolt through. Dont change it.

Pull a string from the center of the front tunnel mount hole to the rear mount hole (drop bracket), you need precisely 31.125" distance between those 2 mounts in order for our suspension to mount correctly in the tunnel.

It looks like the bottom scissor mount was moved rearward, that is good. Can I assume it was done per our isntructions and template? The distance varied depending on rail/model year. Can you get a distance measurement from the original hole to the new hole?


Next, you need to fix that shock. As it is, with the dent in the body you're good for one full compression before you damage the internals if the shock and render it useless on your first ride out.
Send it to Holz. we will replace the body (and any internal parts that may have been damaged), and it will get a basic service as well. A shock body is not very expensive- combined with labor and shipping you will likely be under $200 all said and done.

Please give me a call or e-mail if you need any assistance with the mounting of that suspension. Also call us if in fact you do need replacement bushings - we have them in stock.

360-398-7006
info@holzracingproducts.com

Matt

PS, sorry for a late reply.
 
Last edited:
THANK YOU!!

Our suspensions were never intended to mount in a 144, so right away that is going to be giving you problems.
Unless you stretched you tunnel or moved your drop brackets back.....

The reason your shock is hitting the front arm is because the mount locations in the 144 tunnel are much closer together (too close) than that of say a 151, 155 or 163 tunnel.

Please don't try to invent new mount locations. People do this often and then they wonder why nothing works right.
The 'horse shoe pivot' (the gold half-moon shaped thing at the bottom of the rear shock) only has one intended mount hole- you're already there in the lowest/furthest hole, the other holes are only to lighten the part which is why they aren't big enough to run a bolt through. Dont change it.

Pull a string from the center of the front tunnel mount hole to the rear mount hole (drop bracket), you need precisely 31.125" distance between those 2 mounts in order for our suspension to mount correctly in the tunnel.

It looks like the bottom scissor mount was moved rearward, that is good. Can I assume it was done per our instructions and template? The distance varied depending on rail/model year. Can you get a distance measurement from the original hole to the new hole?


Next, you need to fix that shock. As it is, with the dent in the body you're good for one full compression before you damage the internals if the shock and render it useless on your first ride out.
Send it to Holz. we will replace the body (and any internal parts that may have been damaged), and it will get a basic service as well. A shock body is not very expensive- combined with labor and shipping you will likely be under $200 all said and done.

Please give me a call or e-mail if you need any assistance with the mounting of that suspension. Also call us if in fact you do need replacement bushings - we have them in stock.

360-398-7006
info@holzracingproducts.com

Matt

PS, sorry for a late reply.



OOOOO No THANK YOU!!

I''ll have to get out the tape measure and check it out..


Yes the holes in the rails.. were drilled.. with a Template that came with the kit.. If i remember right there was two different ones.. I double check Measurement ...

But Yes. i did Buy the kit used.. I i knew.. it wasn't the "right kit" But i wanted to make it work.. So Close...

SO Huge THANK YOU To HOLZ


Yes. I'll be calling you also sending the shock off to you!!

THANK YOU!!
 
Hmm Well i came up with 28 3/4 so that where my problem is at..

Well i get to get out the Drill and grinder..

And move the rear brackets back i **** hair!

In the bottom Rear Hole.... That Hole Got moved back 2 1/8 From Original hole.. which was a good thing!
 
Last edited:
Hmm Well i came up with 28 3/4 so that where my problem is at..

Well i get to get out the Drill and grinder..

And move the rear brackets back i **** hair!

In the bottom Rear Hole.... That Hole Got moved back 2 1/8 From Original hole.. which was a good thing!

Glad you got it figured out.
Let us know if you have any other questions.
 
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