summarizing sled?
- Thread starter crooklyn
- Start date
X
X2Freeride
Well-known member
Drain out as much of the gas as you can. Then put sea foam in the tank and run it until it dies. Then I put a teaspoon of oil down each cylinder. I put dryer sheets in the air box and exhaust and a few under the hood to keep the mice away. I also put the sled up on a lift and back the springs loose off the stocks.
What is "sea foam"?
sea-foam
sea foam is like sta-bil some say it works better some say i does not...sea foam is a all around additive check it out...it sells at most part houses...hope that helped
http://www.seafoamsales.com/
sea foam is like sta-bil some say it works better some say i does not...sea foam is a all around additive check it out...it sells at most part houses...hope that helped
http://www.seafoamsales.com/
X
X2Freeride
Well-known member
Stabil used to work better with non ethanol gas. Nowdays pretty much all gas has ethanol in it your better off using seafoam.
C
clutch man
Well-known member
Putting oil in the cylinder does not do any thing for the crankshaft. You need to fog the motor the last time you run it ( do this when you put the sea foam in it). use a good fogging oil, most dealer can get it for you. If you do not fog the motor it can get condensation in it and that can make the bearing on the crank start to rust.
Putting oil in the cylinder does not do any thing for the crankshaft. You need to fog the motor the last time you run it ( do this when you put the sea foam in it). use a good fogging oil, most dealer can get it for you. If you do not fog the motor it can get condensation in it and that can make the bearing on the crank start to rust.
Wash it up and let it dry. Grease the chassis/driveline/suspension.Either completely fill the fuel tank or drain it as much as possible.Change the chaincase oil and tension the chain while you are at it. As clutch man stated above-use fogging oil-we fire up the motor and let it warm up to burn off existing condensation, then turn off the fuel valve(if it has one-some do, some don't)-the point is to run the carbs out of fuel for storage. Wile it's running, spray the fogging oil into the carburetors and keep the motor at a high idle to keep it running. Typically 1/2 a can or so of fogging oil will be injested by the motor before it runs out of fuel-that is plenty to completely coat the internals of the motor and the inside of the exhaust (which also rusts like crazy all summer if you don't fog).
You will be standing in a thick cloud of white smoke if you do this properly!
Next, remove the drive belt from the clutches and make sure the clutches are dry. If it has serviceable shocks, get the oil in them changed(same reasons-they WILL have moisture in them and will corrode through the summer if you don't get the moisture out). If possible, get the weight of the sled off the springs and track. If you do all of this you will minimize chances of corrosion and goo build up and the sled will be ready to ride next fall with only a spark plug change after firing up and burning out the fogging oil.
Also, I have seen sea foam turn the viton tips on carburetor inlet needles into a sticky mess causing the inlet needle to stick to the seat and starve the motor for fuel since the bowl couldn't fill...just my .02.
Curt
How long does it take to burn out the "fogging oil"? Just a couple minutes or 1/2 a ride?
X
X2Freeride
Well-known member
Putting oil in the cylinder does not do any thing for the crankshaft. You need to fog the motor the last time you run it ( do this when you put the sea foam in it). use a good fogging oil, most dealer can get it for you. If you do not fog the motor it can get condensation in it and that can make the bearing on the crank start to rust.
I forgot to post the fogging part. I actually do that as well.
The stuff I use comes in spray cans that you spray in the carbs with the sled running until it dies. The oil down the cylinders is just to coat them to help in case of condensation.
About the same as starting a flooded sled or a freshly rebuilt motor ---just a few smokey minutes while all of the extra oil burns out of the motor and exhaust!
curt
Disassemble entire sled.....reassemble in the fall with lighter parts.
Dont do anything for storage, Everyone on this forum will start it several times during the summer just to inhale the 2 stroke anyways
I fogged my '01 rmk at the end of last season with kawa-chem fogging oil (it's what I could find) and at the beginning of the season when we got our first real freeze my motor literally froze up. So was this the fogging oil? I don't know, but another guy on this forum told me he had the same problem once. Just be aware.
Fogging oil is just that-oil! its just in a spray can so your motor can injest it while running which is the best way to distribute it on all of the internal parts.
Think of it like wd-40 but thicker. I've never used Kawa-chem anything but I can't imagine any fogging oil freezing???
Is it possible it hydrolocked from having to much oil in it? Describe "literally froze up"
curt
1.) Stabil in the gas and run sled long enough to get the Stabil through the fuel line and into the carbs
2.) turn off fuel line valve and run sled until all gas out of carbs and sled stalls
3.) 1 oz of oil down each spark plug hole followed by a few slow tugs on the pull cord
4.) grease it
5.) keep sun and rain off sled
I usually leave only 1/4 tank or less of gas in it and fill with fresh gas the following winter along with a bottle of the HEET to displace any condensation issues.
Sometimes I've lazy and dont pull the belt or set the rear skid on a 2 x 4 to raise the paddles off the trailer......never seemed to create a problem.
2.) turn off fuel line valve and run sled until all gas out of carbs and sled stalls
3.) 1 oz of oil down each spark plug hole followed by a few slow tugs on the pull cord
4.) grease it
5.) keep sun and rain off sled
I usually leave only 1/4 tank or less of gas in it and fill with fresh gas the following winter along with a bottle of the HEET to displace any condensation issues.
Sometimes I've lazy and dont pull the belt or set the rear skid on a 2 x 4 to raise the paddles off the trailer......never seemed to create a problem.
Fogging oil is just that-oil! its just in a spray can so your motor can injest it while running which is the best way to distribute it on all of the internal parts.
Think of it like wd-40 but thicker. I've never used Kawa-chem anything but I can't imagine any fogging oil freezing???
Is it possible it hydrolocked from having to much oil in it? Describe "literally froze up"
curt
Exactly, which I suspect therein lies the problem. Could be the propellant, I'm not sure. When I say my motor froze up, I mean water somehow collected in the bottom end and "literally froze" (hence) when the mercury dropped. The sled was outside and yes it was covered.
C
clutch man
Well-known member
crank repair
I have had to do allot of crank repair because people do this.
running your motor only a 1 or 2 times a month in the summer will not keep condensation from getting to the crank. Do Not Do This.
I have had to do allot of crank repair because people do this.
running your motor only a 1 or 2 times a month in the summer will not keep condensation from getting to the crank. Do Not Do This.
C
clutch man
Well-known member
froze up
You had some other problem there that let water get in to your motor.
I have been using fogging oil for over ten years and my sleds sit out side from June until mid December and I have never had any crank problems.
You had some other problem there that let water get in to your motor.
I have been using fogging oil for over ten years and my sleds sit out side from June until mid December and I have never had any crank problems.
