Stuck on MM 700 oil cable

[rrjames]

I never though I would get stopped from putting a riser on by a cable...here it goes.

I am a pretty tall guy (6' 3" for those who care) so my lanky *** needs risers. I decided to get an 8" and do away with the stock bar and all seemed to be going smoothly till I went to remove the oil cable and replace it with a longer one.

I cant get access to the little thing. I've thought it over a million times, pulled the airbox, carbs, and would have bulled the intakes if I thought it would help but I cant seem to work an angle to get in there.

I'm sure anyone who will comment here knows there is an engine mount in the way. but the angles are all wrong on its bolts for me to even bein to remove it.

Someone here has to have done it and I'm hoping a little outside to box brainpower will steer me in the right direction. How can pull this off?

One idea that came to mind tonight was to come at it from below with the belly pan off if that is even possible.

 

[hurricane2]

I have done them several times with a u-joint adapter between your 12mm socket and extension. Even better, get a 12mm socket with a joint built into it. You cant remove the bellypan on these sleds, it is riveted to the bulkhead/front heat exchanger.

 

[Lt Rascal]

I have done them several times with a u-joint adapter between your 12mm socket and extension. Even better, get a 12mm socket with a joint built into it. You cant remove the bellypan on these sleds, it is riveted to the bulkhead/front heat exchanger.

X2 have done this several times as well.

And no, you do not want to try removing the bellypan. WAY to much work.

 

[TRIPLESWILLNEVERDIE!]

If I understand this correctly you are trying to remove the cable from the oiler... correct?
You need to remove the engine mount to gain access.
Remove the two 12mm head bolts from the block and the 14mm head bolt from the engine mount and remove it. pretty simple

 

[rrjames]

The u-joint adapter idea worked great. Got it all squared away tonight. Thanks for the help folks.

 

[maxco]

please read this

the aftermarket cables are not the same as the stock cables when you check for the slack/oil adjustment. make sure you check your oil consumption religiously after doing this. you can bake your motor if you do not get the adjustment correct. should be about 1L oil for each tank of gas. check as you ride.

 

[Backwoods M Max]

the aftermarket cables are not the same as the stock cables when you check for the slack/oil adjustment. make sure you check your oil consumption religiously after doing this. you can bake your motor if you do not get the adjustment correct. should be about 1L oil for each tank of gas. check as you ride.

I went through the same thing with my mountain max over the summer. I switched to a RSI t-post, fly tall adjustable risers and fly mini bars. I used the powermadd extended length throttle and oil cable and braided brake hose. There should be 35mm of cable travel when the throttle is pinned. On the stock cable, the socket on the adjuster is 13mm deep and with a 22mm gap you get your 35mm. Measure the depth of the socket on the adjuster, subtract it from 35 and that's what you need to set the gap at. On my powermadd cable 25mm gap gives me 35mm of travel because the cable socket is 10mm deep instead of 13mm for the stocker.

 

[rrjames]

I went through the same thing with my mountain max over the summer. I switched to a RSI t-post, fly tall adjustable risers and fly mini bars. I used the powermadd extended length throttle and oil cable and braided brake hose. There should be 35mm of cable travel when the throttle is pinned. On the stock cable, the socket on the adjuster is 13mm deep and with a 22mm gap you get your 35mm. Measure the depth of the socket on the adjuster, subtract it from 35 and that's what you need to set the gap at. On my powermadd cable 25mm gap gives me 35mm of travel because the cable socket is 10mm deep instead of 13mm for the stocker.

Thanks for the pointer, it came to my attenetion today that I might be running a bit hot on oil. I initially set it so that the oiler was full open at full throttle. I now realize that's alot. Thanks for the pointer I'll pull the carbs and re-adjust...what a pain for some risers. If I wasn't so damn tall I'd skip the risers.

 

[Backwoods M Max]

You shouldn't have to pull the carbs to adjust the oil cable. What brand cable did you use? Put a mark on the housing with it in the adjuster, then pull it out and measure how deep that cable end sits in there. The oil pump is at full volume anything beyond 3/8 travel. There is a great write up on how the pump works in the tech section of totallyamaha. The pump arm won't actually make it to the stop at full throttle, there isn't enough cable travel for that when adjusted properly.

 

[bdoe22]

motor

I just take the motor mounts loose and lift the motor. takes 15 minutes to do and another 15 to align the motor. piece of cake. use the tik marks on the oil pump to adjust the cable, dont use a powermadd junker for your extention. they WILL freeze up and cause you major issues.

 

[rrjames]

Backwoods. Where I went wrong was in not removing the nut that that SPI provided. I have cured that now and it all makes sense. I would up leaving it slightly heavy on oil about 33mm and I'll dial it on from here based on what I'm seeing in fuel to oil ratios.

I should try harder not to over think things sometimes....

 

[Backwoods M Max]

Don't worry I went through the same problem with the powermadd cables. There were no instructions and those cables will also work with an 07 cat. I tried a bunch of times before I figured out you take the nut off too. I can just get 25mm of cable gap right now, the cable hasn't stretched and because the threads on the end are longer, the pump lever will hit the end of the housing when I'm just reaching 25mm and the adjuster is bottomed out. I just need a few rides to stretch the cable then I should be able to adjust it. A couple extra mm won't hurt anything, the pump will just end up at full rate a little sooner. Remember the pump is at full flow at 3/8 travel, and when they fail they fail wide open. It will never leave you stranded, just scratching your head for a little while trying to figure out fouling plugs and high oil consumption.