Stripped out steering post

[rmkrazy87]

Well I had the little guy helping me put the Pro back together and in the process he managed to strip out the M6 x 1 threads that hold the hood down just ahead of the steering post. These are the 2 T40's. The holes and bolts are both boogered up.

I ordered 2 new screws. I then tried to chase the female cast aluminum threads but they just tore out. I ordered some helicoils from McMaster today.

Has anyone had this happen? Any luck drilling and tapping into this stuff?

I was also thinking of getting some threaded rod, loctite it in and use some kind of wingnut or thumbscrew. But I am hoping to use the original hardware.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[SRXSRULE]

easy fix with the thread repair kit. Ive seen those screws messed up right from the factory.
I like to use red Loctite when I put the insert into soft metal like what your doing. Just make sure after the insert is installed to spray with brake clean and blow out the remaining Loctite so you don't have issues after you reassemble everything. Eric

 

[BILTIT]

Mine has rod and wingnuts, makes it much easier to pull hood.

 

[Polaris233]

Most Wanted Performance makes this pin kit for $30, If there's anyway you could get the holding pins loctited into place you'd never have to worry about this problem again.

 

[Indy_500]

Mine are pretty boogered up on my 15 already but they are holding. Definitely won't be running it like that much longer...

 

[Pickin’ Boogers]

Mine too - as new from the dealer! I actually spent some time this afternoon cleaning up the threads on both the post mount and on the screws, and things are much better now, but that pin kit is something I'd like!

 

[ripalip2]

I've only had my hood off like three times and that design sucks, would like to get some kind of thumb screw, went to champion bolt today and nothing, more options in u.s. thread. mite have to make some pins with metric on one end and u.s. on the other unless someone has found a good thumb knob to use

 

[danduvall]

A lot of guys use these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121507833796?lpid=82&chn=ps

 

[xc6rider]

I had to chase threads out after pulling mine very first time. Would not start... After that ive been lucky so far. Same thing with the m6 with t40 head on the panel behind the secondary.

 

[Woodsrider]

If the hole is worn out tap to a 1/4 20 SAE use bolt or screw of your choice.

 

[s1d3w1nd3r1480]

Just looked at ordering the pin kit as I really like that design but HOLY F***, shipping costs as much as the kit. Ouch. No way am I spending $60 for something like that. Looks like I will be doing some fab work and making my own like that.

 

[wfieldin]

There was a video at one time on the proper method to install the hood, this might help alleviate some of the stripping problem. The biggest step in the process was to align these holes prior to snapping (securing) the front of the hood nose piece into the locking tab.

Process:

Lay hood on top of sled (don't snap the front end tab into place, let it lay on top loosely), align the two tabs on the console into the hood slots, secure the two push in plastic side rivets, install the T40 screws, now go to the front and you will need to slightly pull the nose forward and push down to snap into place. By not snapping the front nose into place too soon, this allows you to align the T40 screws up properly. Don't forget to hook up electrical connector.

Give it a try you will find it works pretty well, I also use thumb screws I've got from local hardware store.

 

[SRXSRULE]

There was a video at one time on the proper method to install the hood, this might help alleviate some of the stripping problem. The biggest step in the process was to align these holes prior to snapping (securing) the front of the hood nose piece into the locking tab.

Process:

Lay hood on top of sled (don't snap the front end tab into place, let it lay on top loosely), align the two tabs on the console into the hood slots, secure the two push in plastic side rivets, install the T40 screws, now go to the front and you will need to slightly pull the nose forward and push down to snap into place. By not snapping the front nose into place too soon, this allows you to align the T40 screws up properly. Don't forget to hook up electrical connector.

Give it a try you will find it works pretty well, I also use thumb screws I've got from local hardware store.

That's exactly how I do mine. I install the two screw almost all the way by hand, then tighten them after snapping the front of the hood down. Eric

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

There was a video at one time on the proper method to install the hood, this might help alleviate some of the stripping problem. The biggest step in the process was to align these holes prior to snapping (securing) the front of the hood nose piece into the locking tab.

Process:

Lay hood on top of sled (don't snap the front end tab into place, let it lay on top loosely), align the two tabs on the console into the hood slots, secure the two push in plastic side rivets, install the T40 screws, now go to the front and you will need to slightly pull the nose forward and push down to snap into place. By not snapping the front nose into place too soon, this allows you to align the T40 screws up properly. Don't forget to hook up electrical connector.

Give it a try you will find it works pretty well, I also use thumb screws I've got from local hardware store.

Just dont try this when its below zero.
The nose cone plastic shatters.

 

[likkerpig]

How is shipping 30.00? Wtf is that?? Prepaid usps small box is all of 6.00 in the US! And you'll have it faster than ups.

 

[Rjanderson]

Just looked at ordering the pin kit as I really like that design but HOLY F***, shipping costs as much as the kit. Ouch. No way am I spending $60 for something like that. Looks like I will be doing some fab work and making my own like that.

Just called MWP and ordered this pin kit, shipping was $5.00