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storing for the summer

Hi Ive been browsing these forums for awhile but don't post to often.

I Hate to bring this up so soon, but the way things are looking around hear I may be putting my 2011 800 rmk in storage soon for the summer.

Since this it my first fuel injected machine I was wondering the best way to store for the summer. In the past with carbs I always serviced them such as clean clutches, chain case, suspension. Then siphoned all the gas out, let it run till it died, put oil in the cylinder's/crank and never had a problem. I plan on doing the same to this sled except i'm not sure I want to run it dry with fuel injection.

Whats recommended on these sleds
 
dont run it dry..not good for injectors..get it down to a 1/4 tank, add a can of seafoam, run it for 10 minutes..and park it...then oil your cylinders......seafoam will clean the entire system, from the tank to the tailpipe...it will disperse water, and will stabile fuel for at least 2 full years(no octane deddigration), it will also help protect the injectors...a little 2 stroke oil in the gas wont hurt either and helps protect the injectors as well....heres more on seafoam..it is by far the best fuel cleaner/additive you can buy for any gas motor....

http://www.seafoamsales.com/motor-treatment.html
 
I am a master mechanic by trade, been using seafoam for at least 25 yrs..have also used all of the latest greatest fuel cleaning systems over the years..I will take seafoam any day over any of the systems I have used..it flat out works........and I agree with Eric,(Mountain Horse)fogging a motor is the best way to preserve the internals....
 
Seafoam contains isopropyl alcohol - totally unnecessary with today's oxygenated fuels. Just make your own with Miracle oil (light oil) and naptha (from hardware store) and save 200% over the Seafoam cost without the ISA.

Have FUN!

G MAN

PS - It pays to read the MSDS and know what's in it!
PSS - Metal catalysts like Fitch's actually do a better job at preventing varnish formation.
PSSS - Seafoam is perfect for applications with standard fuels (no ethanol). So it really depends on what you have available!
 
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leave a 1/4 tank of fuel in it and pump it out and replace with fresh gas before your first ride of the season. you are INSANE if you run your sled with 6 month old gas seafoam/stabil or not...
 
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Seafoam contains isopropyl alcohol - totally unnecessary with today's oxygenated fuels. Just make your own with Miracle oil (light oil) and naptha (from hardware store) and save 200% over the Seafoam cost without the ISA.

Have FUN!

G MAN

PS - It pays to read the MSDS and know what's in it!
PSS - Metal catalysts like Fitch's actually do a better job at preventing varnish formation.
PSSS - Seafoam is perfect for applications with standard fuels (no ethanol). So it really depends on what you have available!

So would marvel mystery oil be similar to what you are suggesting. I believe it is basically light oil naptha and mineral spirits I have run this in 2 stroke atvs with good results.

asked my dad about the sea foam he is a 30 year diesel mechanic, He said it has always worked good when he used it but has only used it in 4 strokes.

So far I have been able to run non ethenal fuel in my machine so your still saying seafoam is a good option in for that fuel

thanks for all the input
 
Ive actually been using star tron for a few years in my boat and sled as a fuel stabilizer. I put it in all year as its supposidly counteracts the effects of the ethenol breakdown and such. Boat and sled always start right up the next year... although I still agree that using old fuel in a snowmobile, treated or not isnt really a good idea, I usually siphon it out and put it in my pickup. Ive never really been a fan of fogging, though I know a lot of people are. I just go out and start it every couple months and get some fuel and oil pumpin through the system. Also jack the back up off the floor so the track doesnt rott and fold over. I take the belf off too.
 
So would marvel mystery oil be similar to what you are suggesting. I believe it is basically light oil naptha and mineral spirits I have run this in 2 stroke atvs with good results.

asked my dad about the sea foam he is a 30 year diesel mechanic, He said it has always worked good when he used it but has only used it in 4 strokes.

So far I have been able to run non ethenal fuel in my machine so your still saying seafoam is a good option in for that fuel

thanks for all the input

Correct - I use MMO and some toluene or MS for storage with ethanol gas. Startron and Marine Stabil have worked well for me too. And instead of adding more oil to each tank I just add some MMO; really is good stuff and keeps everything very clean without any ISO like in Seafoam.

Cheers,

G
 
FWIW, I've read other topics that strongly suggest against the 'start every month' routine.
Weather or not I think it will have an immediate detrimental effect or not is another thing...but its just another topic for consideration.

Reason being it will create moisture within the crank case, from the heating/cooling etc.
Fogging with oil and NOT starting the engine until next season will, supposedly, eliminate that concern.
 
A little off subject but I was cleaning my ex valves this afternoon and was wondering about coating them with dry molly lube I'm a machinist and I use this stuff for coating cutting tools to gun barrels. I know the stuff dow makes for cutting tools stays on and withstands very high temps better than that for api threads. and it keeps lead out of my 45acp real well I was thinking it may slow the build up of carbon on the ex valves.

any one tried this or do I get to be the first
 
I usually fog the motor, however, I've never had an EFI sled....

Are you still good to just spray down the intakes (ahead of the airbox obviously)? Or will you gum up injectors, etc?

I know on my EFI boat, you hook into the fuel system with a special fitting....is that necessary?
 
dry moly lube

I want to hear about this idea. We use the same stuff for weapons in extreme cold and it works great.
Hadnt thought about it for exhaust valves.


A little off subject but I was cleaning my ex valves this afternoon and was wondering about coating them with dry molly lube I'm a machinist and I use this stuff for coating cutting tools to gun barrels. I know the stuff dow makes for cutting tools stays on and withstands very high temps better than that for api threads. and it keeps lead out of my 45acp real well I was thinking it may slow the build up of carbon on the ex valves.

any one tried this or do I get to be the first
 
dry moly

I'm going to try the dry molly it can't hurt anything. I put the machine together without this time because all I had on hand was crc brand which is good for threads but only rated for about 500 degrees the dow or lps brands are for cutting tools and have working temp ratings of 850 degrees and 100,000 psi if I am remembering right. My only concern is that it may not hold up to the heat I know egt's get much higher i'm just hoping that the valve itself doesn't get that hot.
 
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