I've seen some people modifying their stock intake in one way or another to get rid of the hood portion. How have these been working? Has anyone had a look at plugs and such? Looking for an alternative to the expensive aftermarket intakes on my sled. Thanks.
Stock Intake Modifications???
- Thread starter Rucky
- Start date
if you search this topic , you will find a ton of info!
if you search this topic , you will find a ton of info!
Usually I would say the same thing. However, when searching this I only found one thread. The search feature on SW does not work very well IMO. That's why I made the thread.
Heres my intake good so far, but Ive got a fuel controller.
i made my own mod to the existing intake....just to breathe a little better, intake noise is slightly louder
powder bog
bty this did not cure my deep powder bog....i was reading about some sensor under the hood that was causing the problem but lost the info....anybody know more of this?
bty this did not cure my deep powder bog....i was reading about some sensor under the hood that was causing the problem but lost the info....anybody know more of this?
Elvis and snowmark, how are those workin out for you guys? Are you just using the front 4 nose vents for cool incomming air, or do you have extra hood venting?
Does yours seal against the hood elvis? Not quite picturing yours on the sled snowmark, but im thinking about trying something with the stock plenum, and getting rid of the main hood duct crap. Thanks guys
Does yours seal against the hood elvis? Not quite picturing yours on the sled snowmark, but im thinking about trying something with the stock plenum, and getting rid of the main hood duct crap. Thanks guys
E
elvis1280
Well-known member
i have a lot of vents. Mo flow- nose cone, hood (big and small) bdx recomended bulkhead vent, back nose cone vents, sides, guage etc. Slp prefilter and i have cleaned once in 500 miles
I've made two different intakes. Both are too noisy to run without earplugs 
First one is made of plastic and K&N filters. Those filters are old and they were laying in my carage. They seemed to be stuck as this intake didn't work at all. Weight is about 900gr.
Next one is made of 2mm plastic and mesh fabric. Little ugly but this works good and weights only 300gr
I made also one intake by removing all the stuff from hood and put mesh fabric over the stock horn. It did work good - until first I get to powder. Snow accumulates over the mesh fabric and engine bogs badly.
First one is made of plastic and K&N filters. Those filters are old and they were laying in my carage. They seemed to be stuck as this intake didn't work at all. Weight is about 900gr.
Next one is made of 2mm plastic and mesh fabric. Little ugly but this works good and weights only 300gr
I made also one intake by removing all the stuff from hood and put mesh fabric over the stock horn. It did work good - until first I get to powder. Snow accumulates over the mesh fabric and engine bogs badly.
The simplest way to make an intake that will work for sure, use the stock box, cut holes in it & cover it with slp mesh. This is essentially what the BDX kit is.
W
W A O
Well-known member
Cheep Intake
Use the stock air box and get a 2.5" hole saw and the 3" frog skinz. Drill one hole either side of the stock hole and one in front of the stock hole.
Cover them with the frog skinz.I have the stock plentum with a bigger horn on it.This year with all the deep powder and no base my front vents in the hood are always clogged,no matter what you do.
This has worked for me for three years no problems at all. I put six 1" holes in hood up by the gauge and coverd with frog skinz,man what a noticable differance,let out all that hot air.
The stock plentum lets good air in but when you need more the frog skinz allow more.
If you need to replace the stock plentum get a 4" frog skinz to cover hole.
Ad more hood vents to let in cold air.I think more importantly the issue is get out the hot air, air movement through the motor compartment and vents to let it out is the key.
I put a speedwrkz fat daddy pipe and milled head and clutching on a m7 this year and noticed more under hood heat with this ad this year,drilled those 1" hole by gauge and no more problems.
Hope this helps someone
Have fun be safe
Use the stock air box and get a 2.5" hole saw and the 3" frog skinz. Drill one hole either side of the stock hole and one in front of the stock hole.
Cover them with the frog skinz.I have the stock plentum with a bigger horn on it.This year with all the deep powder and no base my front vents in the hood are always clogged,no matter what you do.
This has worked for me for three years no problems at all. I put six 1" holes in hood up by the gauge and coverd with frog skinz,man what a noticable differance,let out all that hot air.
The stock plentum lets good air in but when you need more the frog skinz allow more.
If you need to replace the stock plentum get a 4" frog skinz to cover hole.
Ad more hood vents to let in cold air.I think more importantly the issue is get out the hot air, air movement through the motor compartment and vents to let it out is the key.
I put a speedwrkz fat daddy pipe and milled head and clutching on a m7 this year and noticed more under hood heat with this ad this year,drilled those 1" hole by gauge and no more problems.
Hope this helps someone
Have fun be safe
half the point is to get rid of the heavy stuff under the hood the other is airflow. did mine i dont have pics just took the air box and cut it up then took some window screen from the hardware store and used two part epoxy to hold it on, then put frogskinns on the vents to keep more snow out works good w the speedworks y pipe and clutching it was a little rich on the bottom but i bought a boondocker box for future mods but wouldnt think twice about runnin without the controler u could also buy some of the slp cloth stuff to wrap the air box in would still b on the cheaper side
Where can I pick up that prefilter material? Do any of the auto parts stores carry it?
stock box gone
when you remove the air plenum on the m sled you go back in time.
when you go with the nose cone only intake but are running carbs you will get a dose of how much hot air you ingest, meaning less hp. Slow going in heavy snow nose only air intake with carbs..........way sucks.
efi m's which 99% of riders own do a WAY better job of masking the hot air issue by adjusting for the hot air with the less fuel and then less hp, but it sounds ok............so its ok. And noise is often confused with hp improvment, more noise more hp.......I think a proven fact?
95% of snow conditons won't bother too much a well setup nose cone only air intake, 5% of snow conditons you might as well stay at the back of the pack and ride in someone's track. On those days most stock air intake M's have to do the same.
Stay on the trail, stay home on the big powder days, gut the intake system, its ok.
when you remove the air plenum on the m sled you go back in time.
when you go with the nose cone only intake but are running carbs you will get a dose of how much hot air you ingest, meaning less hp. Slow going in heavy snow nose only air intake with carbs..........way sucks.
efi m's which 99% of riders own do a WAY better job of masking the hot air issue by adjusting for the hot air with the less fuel and then less hp, but it sounds ok............so its ok. And noise is often confused with hp improvment, more noise more hp.......I think a proven fact?
95% of snow conditons won't bother too much a well setup nose cone only air intake, 5% of snow conditons you might as well stay at the back of the pack and ride in someone's track. On those days most stock air intake M's have to do the same.
Stay on the trail, stay home on the big powder days, gut the intake system, its ok.
I'm with you Castleman. My goal is to find the deepest powder possible and I don't understand how these nose cone air intakes could get you more horsepower than the stock setup let alone even work. When you are riding through snow up to the windshield, there is no way those setups are getting cold air which means less hp or a bog.
I have a modified stock intake similar to what Castleman has suggested in the past and it works really well. Just needs a few more tweaks and I will have a setup that would work in handlebar deep powder, but then I would need a turbo
BAMFM7 is the first guy in our group to try one of these nose cone setups but he hasn't ridden in deep powder yet. We should know in a few weeks whether it will work or not. He is saving a lot of weight with his setup but I am not sure it will work in the deep.
I have a modified stock intake similar to what Castleman has suggested in the past and it works really well. Just needs a few more tweaks and I will have a setup that would work in handlebar deep powder, but then I would need a turbo
BAMFM7 is the first guy in our group to try one of these nose cone setups but he hasn't ridden in deep powder yet. We should know in a few weeks whether it will work or not. He is saving a lot of weight with his setup but I am not sure it will work in the deep.
i went with a high flow intake horn on the stock setup, theres always a change of having to cross a creek where i ride and have seen a few m's suck up some water with the bdx intake, now ive also tried 2 slp flowrites in the stock air box along side the stock intake horn with the underhood stuff removed, and no matter how many vents you have in your hood or side panels you are bound to be suck up steam as i did,
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aktreekiller
Well-known member
hey
I'v been in 3ft of fluff with my bdx intake, and had no hesitation or bog of any kind. Snow has alot of oxygen in it. The surface of air intake is great, and the fact it comes from outside of the hood is great also. I sealed my front end completely, and seal the bdx cover on top so no snow gets in anywhere.
I'v been in 3ft of fluff with my bdx intake, and had no hesitation or bog of any kind. Snow has alot of oxygen in it. The surface of air intake is great, and the fact it comes from outside of the hood is great also. I sealed my front end completely, and seal the bdx cover on top so no snow gets in anywhere.
