Splines on my aluminum shaft on my 2019 are basically stripped right off. I have 3 driveshafts from my 2012 proclimb that are sitting here. I know the 2012 doesn't have the 2 jam nuts to hold the brake disc on instead just circlips. Is it possible to swap the drivers from the 2019 onto the 2012 shaft and use the circlips to retain the brake disc or is there something else im missing?
Steel Track shaft from 2012 on 2019?
- Thread starter ippielb
- Start date
Yes you can swap them.
Just use the 2012 retaining clips on the brake disc? Is there any spacing differences on the brake disc or chaincase bottom gear?
There was a narrower spline area on the aluminum shafts on the sprocket side in the 2018s so if running a belt drive it would need a different bottom hub. On the 2019+ they went back to full-width splines like the 2012-2017 had so should be good there. Brake side use the clip off the 2012. I originally thought there might be an offset difference since they changed brake caliper part numbers in 2018 on the aluminum shaft models, but guys were putting the aluminum shafts in without changing calipers. Hillclimb guys were also running steel shafts for durability. I'd say put the old shaft in with the new brake and if everything seems to line up run it. Should be a quick check. If you have to squeeze the tunnel together a little bit to get the snap ring on the brake side that's normal.
Thanks a bunch, i hope i can find the stupid clip that goes on the outside of the brake disc. I have 3 shafts from my 2012, one bent shaft, one with bent driver, and one good one. it'll save me some money and make it through the season without the aluminum shaft. I'll feel better about it too.
Go to Barn of Parts and get the bearing saver upgrade for the steel shaft. Only issue with those shafts is the caliper bearing wears on the shaft and causes a poor fit and bearing race wears the shaft. The fix puts an expander into the shaft to tighten shaft into bearing so it can't spin in the race. I have had to weld and machine one of mine already and wished I had known about this fix. Remove the expander and the shaft slips out again.
Just an update, the steel shaft worked great today, and made my sled drive smoother with less driveline vibration from the aluminum shaft wobbling in the chaincase. Also didnt ratchet my track once with a way looser track. So if you do notice you have to keep tightening your track, or blew a belt drive belt/chain check the shaft and bearing.
Another update. The steel shaft does not have the threaded end on the brake side and there is only snap rings. I pinched the tunnel together to install but there was still some play in the driveshaft side to side. So it took out the bottom gear on my belt drive and blew a belt. I purchased some shims from John Deere to take up the 0.019" of space between the snap ring and the bottom gear. and installed the gear with green loctite retaining compound to prevent it from wiggling. Has been good for a few days now.
Interesting, been running same setup with belt drive for 2 years and no issue. C3 (Specialty Sleds) drive. What brand are you running? Wonder if bottom gear tolerance is different? Snap rings on mine required pulling tunnel together a bit to get seated.
Specialty as well on my sled. There's no mistakes to be made when installing the gear onto the shaft. It's on or its not. I could walk my gear back and forth rotationally as well as axially. So the bearing retaining compound and the shims seems to have fixed that it appears. Have a few harder days on it and seems to be holding up.
Mine was an older kit I bought used and was still an actual C3 kit. I wonder if tolerances changed with Specialty taking kit over and possibly outsourcing differently for the parts. I just installed a new Specialty kit on a sled I am building for a friend. Will check and see if it has the play you found. It has the steel driveshaft.
Similar threads
