Here is some info that a member sent me. It didn't really help me out personally for some reason the numbers I got to work are a long ways off from anyone else's. But this is a lot of good info, the best I have found!!!
AC 09 800 162” TWISTED TURBO SPEC’S
FUEL CONTROL SETTINGS
-Green Light. Cruise fuel adjustment. (Pilot Jet)-1.5. Decreasing the light
value will add a lower amount of fuel. Increasing light value will add more fuel.
-Yellow Light. Acceleration fuel adjustment. (Needle Jet)-1.5. Decreasing the light value
will add a lower amount of fuel. Increasing light value will add more fuel. (This mode will
always be equal to or less then you green setting). Activates accelerator pump.
-Red Light-Off. All the way to the left and blinking fast.
-Green / Blue Light (Boost)-4 to 5. Main adjustment-Does 80% of tuning. Use this
mode to dial in top end and use the first (3) modes for fine tuning.
-Red / Blue Light-7.5. Full Throttle RPM switch point adjustment Switch point for
main jet. Decreasing the light value will cause the full throttle fuel to engage
at a lower RPM. Increasing the light value will increase the RPM it engages.
AIR / FUEL NUMBERS
-WOT A/F =12.3. 11.5=to rich. 12.8=to lean.
-Trail Riding A/F= 14.5-15.5
FUEL PSI
-Fuel psi at idle=40 lbs.
-Fuel psi will rise 1:1 with boost.
TEMP SENSOR
-If and when you do trip the temp. sensor. Turn the temp. sensor bypass switch off(do not give it gas) pull it over till it pops, usually 1-3 pulls. Then turn the temp. sensor bypass switch back on hold it wide open and it should start first or second pull every time.
HATCHERS SETTINGS
-green - 1.5
-yellow - 1.5
-red - off (blinking fast on the far right LED)
-Green/Blue - 3.5 keeps me close to 12.5 A/F when I adjusting between 10 and 16lbs of
boost
-RED/Blue - 7 feels good at lower boost and 5.5 feels better at higher boost
SUSPENSION
-Rear shock-150 psi
-Front Shock-50/53: 2 or 3 more psi on clutch side
-Always set pressure with no load on shock
-Move limiter all the way out
CLUTCHING
-Full engage at 7800-7900 RPM
-Clutch off set at .063 or 1-16th of inch. From basically touching the inner primary sheave to about 1/16" (.063") out from touching
-046 AC belt
Tuning Tips
1. Use the green mode to gain drivability on the bottom end at cruising speeds. If you are
seeing a rich idle you need to adjust the Fuel pressure reg.
2. Your yellow mode will always be equal to or less then your green.
3. Use the Green blue mode to tune your top end desired Air fuel or EGT. Then use your red
to fine tune. It’s better to rely on the green blue as much as possible and keeping you red at
as low as number as possible to keep the sled moving with elevation and temp changes.
4. If you change in elevation or air temp and your sled seems to come out of tune. Turn your
snowmobile OFF and then restart it. This will reset the Attitude Boost sensor and zero it
out. This should bring your sled back in tune. Always do this first before trying to readjust
your Attitude Box.
5. Always tune your EGT or Air fuel pulling on a hill. You will see your best result in tuning
with doing so.
Description of each mode and light representation:
Mode 1 - Green - Cruise fuel adjustment
Similar to adjusting pilot jet and mixture screw on carburetor vehicles. Decreasing the light
value will add a lower amount of fuel. Increasing light value will add more fuel.
Mode 2 - Yellow - Acceleration fuel adjustment
Similar to raising or lowering the needle on carburetor vehicles. Decreasing the light value
will add a lower amount of fuel. Increasing light value will add more fuel. (This mode will
always be equal to or less then you green setting)
Mode 3 - Red - Full Throttle fuel adjustment
Similar to adjusting a main jet on a carburetor. Decreasing the light value will add a lower
amount of fuel. Increasing light value will add more fuel.
Mode 4 - Green/Blue – Amount of fuel added per pound of boost
This is your main adjustment and does 80% of your tuning for your turbo. Use this mode to
to dial in your top end and use the first 3 modes for fine tuning.
Mode 5- Not Used
This feature will not light up in your box. It is not used in this application.
Mode 6 – Red/Blue – Full Throttle RPM switch point adjustment
This function is the RPM switch point for when the full throttle fuel addition engages.
Adjustment is necessary to mostly match different pipes or big bore kits which require
different fueling needs. Decreasing the light value will cause the full throttle fuel to engage
at a lower RPM. Increasing the light value will increase the RPM it engages.
-Backfiring is a lean condition.
09 Twisted Turbo Tuning Tips
12/24/10
EMAIL from tuner - 12/24/10
My numbers are.
G-1.5
Y-1.5
R-.5
G/B-4.5 @ 9lbs 10,500 to 12,500'
R/B-7.5
At your altitude I would run 9lbs max on 100ll
This info is based on the fact that you already know for sure your sled is
set at 8.5 to 9 lbs of boost. When you are done tuning this weekend it will either be 8.5 OR 9lbs.
So, you are going to tune your sled to the existing boost setting by
finding a hill that you can make a 5 second pull on with no distractions,
such as trees and rocks.
1. Make sure fuel pressure is set at EXACTLY 40 psi at idle.
2. Make a short pull to make sure fuel pressure is rising as sled is
coming up on boost. Should be 1 to 1.
40 psi at idle 9lbs boost. 40psi plus 9lbs=49 psi at full boost.
3. Make a wot pull looking at A/F gauge only. Tune sled from
11.8 to 12.2 A/F reading. My box gives .04 to .05 up or down, on the A/F gauge per 1/2 point of fuel added or taken away.
4. Make a WOT pull looking at boost gauge, making sure you are going to full boost. Remember we only tune to WOT, and full boost on G/B.
Make small adjustments. If you are raising or lowering boost do so at 1/4
turn at a time on controller so you are not guessing on fuel. All of the cats
seem to have the hot spot a mid to 3/4 throttle. make sure you vary throttle
thru this range on trail. honestly the only time I ever pay attention to my A/F
gauge is when I am boosting, and the occasional look down to make sure it is still working.
Once you have the G/B number for the area you are riding it should not change as long as fuel pressure doesn't change.
I would start with the G/B at 4.5 to be safe. 4.5 should be rich. Technically you should be in the 3.5-4 range. The numbers do not vary that much.
Mine are:
G/B-10,500 to 12,500=4.5
G/B-9,750 to 10,500=4.0
G/B-9,000 to 9,750=3.5
So, 1 point of fuel in 3500' feet of elevation. These numbers have never
changed since day one.
once you get your sled tuned to the boost you are set at now, it is super simple to move boost around.
Get this method figured out and we will move to tuning with boost controller.
One more Thing, You are tuning with G/B only. If this method does not work I
would get sled back home safely and start looking for other issues.
Attitude Box Tuning