Spring removal
- Thread starter ditch1000
- Start date
F
FCR112
ACCOUNT CLOSED
Don't sweat this one at all.
It is extraordinarily easy, loosen up the spring tension all the way and they pretty much fall apart. The spring retaining clip will fall off and you slide the spring over the end of the shock. Install new spring, slide clip on and start tightening the tensioner to your desired compressed spring length.
You can loosen and tighten the tension quite a ways by hand too, then use the tool if it gets tough.
It is extraordinarily easy, loosen up the spring tension all the way and they pretty much fall apart. The spring retaining clip will fall off and you slide the spring over the end of the shock. Install new spring, slide clip on and start tightening the tensioner to your desired compressed spring length.
You can loosen and tighten the tension quite a ways by hand too, then use the tool if it gets tough.
I just did this on all four with my Raptor Triple Rate Springs. Block under the engine to get the weight off the front, and lift the rear for the track shocks. Do the front and rear separate - too many pinch points by having an unstable sled completely off the ground 
. With no weight on the springs you can loosen them by hand all the way to the point of removing the keeper. And it works out to the right length where the bolts pretty much come out with a kiss.
On install I ran the bolt through each eyelet first and then played with the keeper - they all went in with little effort except for the FTS. I had to compress that a bit with a tiedown to get the piston length proper - just play with your geometry.
Grease the bushings when they are out. Also remove the bar below the rear shock and grease that bushing since there is no zerk for that rotating assembly. Grease the outside of the bushing face that contacts the mounting tab too. I started to develop a squeak from that bar, just some minor PM work.
. With no weight on the springs you can loosen them by hand all the way to the point of removing the keeper. And it works out to the right length where the bolts pretty much come out with a kiss.On install I ran the bolt through each eyelet first and then played with the keeper - they all went in with little effort except for the FTS. I had to compress that a bit with a tiedown to get the piston length proper - just play with your geometry.
Grease the bushings when they are out. Also remove the bar below the rear shock and grease that bushing since there is no zerk for that rotating assembly. Grease the outside of the bushing face that contacts the mounting tab too. I started to develop a squeak from that bar, just some minor PM work.
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