Spring Rates/Oil Weights

[Overwatcher]

Guys and Gals,
After dipping and diving in the snow last winter,I'm going to finally upgrade my forks for THIS winter.Just wondering what has been working well for deep/mountain/tree riding..(spring rate/oil weight wise).I run around 200lbs all geared up.I have looked at the trio/air-pro..But figured since its a snowbike 100% of the time..Might as well just do the forks.Also if anyone here/site sponsors can get the hookup/connection of where to get springs and fork oil shoot them my way.Thanks in advance for the insights

 

[wwillf01]

Rocky mountain snowbike has great advice and all the valving and springs you will need.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[tek9tim]

Suspension info/help can be tricky, anybody who really knows what they're doing charges money for their expertise, but guys like me that have no idea will freely share.

I ran the stock .48 springs on my bike last year with 10wt oil about 20mm higher than stock, afraid to go heavier on the oil and bring out the 4cs demons. Damping was actually really nice, I kept the compression cranked and the rebound fully backed off. Only bottomed a couple times, but had a lot of dive. I had to get in the habit of moving back on the seat every time I let off the throttle. I bumped up to .62 springs this year, keeping the oil situation the same. Just on the shop floor, it's completely different. Way less static sag, and the rear suspension is actually forced to do some work. I haven't had it out on the snow yet, so no idea how it'll work. But I'm confident that I'll be a lot happier with it.

 

[GKR]

I am around 220lbs and have ran both closed chamber WP forks and 4CS with .60 springs and 15wt. oil and was happy with the setup. I am not a big jumper, mostly ride trees and deep pow.

 

[cbc76am]

I've tried many setups over the years. open bath, closed cartridge, and AER forks. With standard forks generally in the 170-200ish pound rider range you want:

.60 springs (cannon racecraft makes them in the right length so no sag spacers are needed)

Add schrader valves or an airpro and run 6-10psi on the fork legs - adding oil works also but this is easier and more adjustable on the fly with the same results. (ford mustang EFI schraders are small enough to tap into the bleed screw hole on SSS forks and are 20 bucks -- you'll need a special tap - 5/16" - 27 HSS Right hand Thread Tap) There is also a company making drop in schraders for 90 bucks i heard.

Standard motocross valving with the clickers closed full and rebound cranked up (typically 5 to 8 clicks from fully closed) to compensate for the heavy springs will work pretty damn well for regular dudes.

If you jump or take big drops then you'll want to add some shims to the mid valve stack to ramp sharper hits. If valving isn't your thing then send it out for pro motocross or amateur supercross/arenacross valving... or to brockstar for snowbike based shim stack (its really the same as an SX setup at the end of the day)

Kreft revalve control for AER is amazing for snowbiking and dirt with the turn of a dial and the easiest way to flip flop seasons with KTM/Husq.

Or of course just buy a Trio

 

[cbc76am]

btw I don't like the oil weight change as much these days, it doesn't ramp well from initial to harder hits and rebound gets all jacked up by the heavy oil... but it's all personal preference.

 

[Overwatcher]

Genuinely appreciate the insight and inside experience..Moving forward,Im excited to get the front end dive fixed.

 

[needpowder]

Genuinely appreciate the insight and inside experience..Moving forward,Im excited to get the front end dive fixed.

What bike? I’m not too familiar with the pumpkins but if you are on KYB I would just do springs and possibly air. The kit you’re on also makes a difference. I am a little bit lighter than you and ran .62 with a few pounds of air. Stock oil weight and height. Works pretty well. I like to jump and it held up well