Spindle ski pivot bushings...

[J.Jensen]

Just got my sled home from the cabin and I noticed that both ski's have severe play in the pivot bushings. Probably 15* toe in/out worth of bushing wear.

My sled has HRP spindles and I can't find replacement bushings anywhere on their webshop. Are my spindles shot or have any of you guys replaced these before?

 

[MARV1]

Call directly.

 

[POLZIN]

I agree call them or try www.mcmaster.com either way buy extra if your going back with the plastic they will need replacing often.

 

[J.Jensen]

Will replacing them with aluminum bushings cause other issues?
I might get a guy at work to machine up some new ones.

 

[POLZIN]

I would go with a self lubricating bronze bushing if you can find some that will fit. The only wat to go IMO. they will handle the load/stress much better.

 

[J.Jensen]

Are all bronse bushings self lubricating, or does it have to be some special type of bronze? I don't know what metal bar stocks we have at work, I suspect its mostly steel and alu we use on the airplanes here...

Anyway, I got mail back from HRP, 3.15 each bushing and .95 for a new bolt. I'll get 6 of each and just replace when they wear out. I don't know if they're plastic or metal, time will tell

Awesome to get a reply just hours after I sent my e-mail. Bonus points for HRP in my book!

 

[mountainhorse]

If your bushings have been worn out for a while, check the bore of the spindle itself to see if it is ovalized... if so, you might need to look elswhere.

Also, it is VERY important to use a high grade synthetic grease on the bolt, insert and bushing. Do this AT Least once a season. ( I like to do it 2 x)

 

[J.Jensen]

If your bushings have been worn out for a while, check the bore of the spindle itself to see if it is ovalized... if so, you might need to look elswhere.

Also, it is VERY important to use a high grade synthetic grease on the bolt, insert and bushing. Do this AT Least once a season. ( I like to do it 2 x)

If my luck is that bad, I'll try to get them drilled and install an oversize close tolerance bushing with liquid nitrogene. Worst case, they'll be ruined anyway so I might as well try

 

[mountainhorse]

If they are ovalized... you could find a good bronze sleeve bushing and Epoxy it in place

You would NOT want an oil impregnated bushing IF YOU ARE GOING TO EPOXY IT IN PLACE (Oilite is a great bearing... it just does not epoxy well)
1) The do not stick well with epoxy
2) You will be lubricating them anyway with synth grease.

There is NOT a lot of metal surrounding the Holz bushings on the spindle extrusion in the first place... I dont think you will want to be over-boring them too much if at all.

If you use metal... Make sure to remove the ski and lubricate the sleve and bushing all together.

If you need any help with getting the parts/epoxy together... PM me, I'd be happy to help you get them shipped all toghether to Norway cheaper... I know what a pain that can be.

Have a look at McMaster Carr sleeve bearings...I think a 5/8" ID / 3/4" OD would work
http://www.mcmaster.com/#sleeve-bearings/=75a8zo

Lets just hope that the plastic is only worn out.

You will probably want to get new anodized sleeves for (#17 in the dwg below)

 

[mountainhorse]

Make sure that the ski spacers on either side of the spindle are in good condition as well as the Bolt and rubber snubber on the ski... all are related to precise steering.

Now would be a great time to upgrade to the Gripper skis on the 2007 and up RMK's

 

[mountainhorse]

The HRP bushings are UHMW or something similar (plastic NOT metal)

 

[J.Jensen]

The knowledge about these sleds that you guys "carry around" never cease to amaze me!

Are the sleeves and ski spacers the same for stock and aftermarket spindles? I've got SLP ski's on it. Are those equal to the newer Grippers you refer to in terms of improved handling?

And I'm grateful for your offer to help out getting stuff and shipping it. I might have to take you up on that during my summer maintenance

 

[mountainhorse]

The SLP Powder Pros ARE an excellent ski on the 900 RMK's.

The spacers and sleeves are the same for the HRP as they are for the stock..
The early HRP spindles had the spacers machined into the extrusion... the later model HRP spindles used the spacers.

Not sure on the SLP's needing spacers or not...

Are they in there right now...

Please post photos of what you have now.. spindles, spacers, skis etc.

 

[diamonddave]

SLP's don't use any spacers, just a sleeve.

I've saved 3 sets of Holz spindles now that the bushings had be pounded to dust and had oblonged out the hole. No problem, and these were really bad. Just take some scotch brite rapped up on a drill bit or on a piece 3/8" brake line with a slot cut to hold the scothch brite and use your drill to clean it up a little.

The new bushings will still take a press or c-clamp to install, you'd be shocked how wore out these were.

Just an FYI...I like to reinstall 3 bushings into each spindle instead of the 2. Problem with this is there's nothing to prevent the bushings from sliding towards the inside as there's no ridge inside the bore to prevent this.

So you can either order 3 packs (2 in each) from Holz or install one of your least worn out used ones in the center of the spindle. 3 bushings will fit perfect. I found that the 3 sleds I installed the 3 bushings into each spindle are lasting much longer.

 

[mountainhorse]

Dave,

Great point on using 3 bushings... I'll be trying that on my set for next seasnon.... Thanks...

Do you have the 2009/10 HRP spindles or the previous models.

The 09/10 spindles dont have the extended boss to the side of the extension and come with spacers... the previous models do not have spacers.

Did the aluminum extrusion, ie... the spindle itself, get ovalized or just the plastic bushing

 

[J.Jensen]

Here are a couple of snaps of the spindle.

The ski's are Powder Pro's and they don't have any spacers between the ski and spindle. It also looks like the bushing has worked its way into the center on the worst side, but I haven't dismantled yet so I can't be sure.

I'll put three bushings in there too, thanks for the tip Dave

PS: Its dirty as hell, just came off the mountain and I haven't cleaned it yet!!

 

[mountainhorse]

You have the earlier, non-width adjustable, HRP spindles.

The new ones, that are width adjustable, have no boss on the outboard side and 2 spacers that go with them to be able to adjust the width of the spindle.

When you dissassemble the ski/pivot/bushings.... make sure that the actual aluminum of the spindle is not worn (ovalized) if so, the next set of bushings you install will have a short life...

If the aluminum is OK... you will have ZERO problems as Dave pointed out, and use the HRP bushings.

IMO... GEt 7 sets of 2.... 3 sets per change (6 bushings) with an extra 3 sets to install in the future and one extra pair if you have installation problems and damage a bushing.

 

[J.Jensen]

I'll do that

Thanks for your help guys. There will be PLENTY more threads from me during the summer when I tear into this thing

 

[diamonddave]

On each of the three spindles I worked on, what had happened was the bushings were sliding towards the inside of the spindle, since there is no ridge to prevent horizontal movement of the bushing. This takes away the support and the bushing ends up wearing out even faster which then allows the spindle ski spacer to wear out the inside bore of the spindle (metal on metal)

All 3 that I repaired had some significant oblong, ovalized wear to the point that I didn't think they'd work again. After cleaning up the bores a little, I was able to press in the 3 new bushings.

Now, since HRP has updated the design on the newer spindles and added spacers to make ski stance adjustable, then I'd have to believe that 3 bushings together would run into some issues as the newer design spindles would have to be thinner. My trick is for the older style.